3D printer with 7 drivers, compact, dual extruder, no CNC part. All Openbuilds and 3D printed part. This is purely experimental.

A small business idea led us here, lets see where it will go.

This build uses drawer slides and thread rod to create foam wings and fuselages by passing a hot wire through the foam which makes very accurate shapes. I built a Radio Controlled SuperVC10 using foam but did have a cnc machine then so I had to make many templates to guide the hot wire. This inspired me to build a cnc hot wire cutter. Works really well and have made several RC models with it now

OOZNEST Style OX machine with 3D printed panels

Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2 / MK2s / MK2.5 3D printer

An enclosed cube shaped 3D printer using CoreXY motion. Fabricated from V slot extrusion, standard extrusion, aluminium plate and acrylic sheet using basic workshop tools. Using standard RAMPS/ Reprap electronics. Technically a 'Repstrap' currently used to build a true 'Reprap'

GT2 belt-driven Cartesian 3D Printer on an OpenBuilds Extrusion gantry, developed through Autodesk Fusion 360.

This is my latest project. I'm building a new CNC router to be bigger in cutting envelope (1500mm x 3000mm / approx 5 by 10 ft).

This is my first attempt at building my own 3d printer.

The QuorXZ doesn't magically appear. It's gestation takes time, careful attention, and requires many parts. However, when it is ready, a magical, mechanical instrument is born....(and when you finally say its name, it sounds a little bit like "corks").

This OpenBuilds Mini Mill is a great go-to desktop sized CNC milling plate / part maker and 3D carving machine!

First CoreXY. Simple Square build, hopes for faster movements.

Large format 1200X1500mm OX Build using Stainless Steel plates, dual belt configuration. Limit switches is a mix of micro switches and NPN Proximity switches. Electronics based on parallel break out board, Long Motor Stepper drivers (Chinese stuff) and motors controlled by Mach3. Spindel will be Kress 1050.

A smaller version of a standard D-bot. Smaller to fit better in my workable area and to fit my vision for the printer.

My first construction after many years buys ready devices.

A lightweight, portable, accurate 3D Printer that has a good sized print area and small overall footprint that is easy to build, with easy to source components. The design is OpenSource allowing those with the capability to make their own parts get up and running.

As a tinkerer and hobbyist I need a reliable quality printer on a budget... Meaning I'm not looking to buy a: Prusa, Zortrax or LulzBot because of the added cost their marketing adds. I can definitely build a machine of hopefully equal quality at a lower cost that is not impacted by the marked-up priced from a large reputable manufacturer. I will need to dedicate time and more time for design shakedowns to ensure I produce a quality machine. Bare with me on this build... Thanks!

Quick and Simple V-Slot Gantry System. This example build shows how easy it is to make a linear actuator using a few OpenBuilds Parts. You can mount this system an many ways so be sure to download the example models.

Learn to build a super strong nema 23 lead driven linear actuator

I will post soon some more details.

just wanted to share my build of a huge 3d printer. It stands just over 2 meters tall and has a total print area of around 850mm x 850mm.

The Phlatprinter 3 was designed to be used in a small shop with the ability to cut large sheets of foam for RC airplane projects. The idea was that you could save all of your aircraft as models and tweak to perfection after every flight.

SLA LCD 3D Printer ( 8.9'' LCD screen )

A TrueUp Glide modified to use 20x40 V-Slot with a 300x300 bed.

A dual extrusion CoreXY printer with a 290 X 290mm build volume built entirely out of 2020 aluminum extrusion and using openbuilds mini-carriages for motion.

A strong desktop cnc router that will enable you to make larger aluminium plates without taking up to much room. Simple, strong and opensource ! Build one today..

An open source 3D printer design with a sturdy V-Slot frame

A cartesian build with a build dimension of 200x200x750mm. I will be using a dual extruder, heated build plate, and a screw drive for the z axis.

2 1/2 axis CNC chassis. Convertible to plasma, 3D printer and welder. Currently used as router. Plotting table dim: X axis 620 mm, Y 650 mm, Z 100 mm. Created for teaching purposes, open source license, currently used for engraving ukiyo-e wood plates and printmaking

C-Beam 2XL CNC Router

The 3D printer will be able to print 2x2x2m components and not just in PLA or ABS. It's not just a DIY printer but I'm trying to apply engineering formulas to make it. I'm going to apply the state of art for 3D printing and scannering existing.

an 8020 build with 1010 extrusion (1") Square tubing Rough size is 24x24x36 (600x600x900) The expected usable print area 21.5x21.5X32"roughly (510x510x760) An XY 3D printer with 3 extruders and 3 Z-axis 0.9 degree motors the table (Z-AXIS) will lift up to the XY Carriage on 3 12mm linear rod and 3 8mm Lead screw's Corexy designs complete and Z-axis build is started don’t have a 3D cad system yet so building my prototypes on a pcb layout tool

A quiet, 8inx8in build area, Cartesian printer with permanently level bed. This is a compact, solid, inexpensive printer that will reliably print any type filament for thousands of hours while you sleep, fish, or play ball in the park.

It all started after my prusa i3 build inspired me to experiment with resin 3D printers because I want to learn if they are worth it and if I can design my own printer.

Mid range build.

3-Axis CNC Laser Engraver running grbl 1.1 in laser mode and Laserweb4.

Large scale True 500x500x500 build volume 3D printer.

Aluminum-framed enclosure for TAZ 6 3d Printer made with Makerlink.

Delta printer designed in sketchup and includes an adjustable bed.

I made a cam slider prototype with adjustable rotation to get experience for my CNC milled slider in planing.

The aim of this build is to have a CNC that can cut a FULL sheet of wood when I need it to, but also shrink down and cut smaller sheets the rest of the time. The prototype is based on an OX cnc but soon it will be completely custom using Openbuilds Parts

The original plan was to build a 3d printer with a 1200x1200 build platform with a 600mm build height. I was having issues getting ahold of a large enough borosilicate glass plate for the build so I decided to go for build height. I plan on using a smoothieboard for the controller. The build has currently slowed down. I was removing a broken drillbit from the linear rail mount, and it shattered and took out my eye. I am doing what I can when I can focus my eyes long enough for the build.

3D Printer based upon 3d printed parts and open builds componets

Fully welded, fixed gantry CNC router, with chinese linear motion parts, in progress

How to modularize the 3D Systems Cube 3 extruder nozzle.

I recently completed my C-Beam Plate Maker build ( http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/rsws-c-beam-build.4286/ ) and quickly got the build bug. I was looking for something to make with the new C-Beam and decided its time to venture into the 3D printer world. I can honestly say I have never been in the same room with a 3D printer, so this is going to be a learning experience. I spent some time browsing the 3D printer builds and finally decided to copy the Talos3D by AlexLee.

The Space Optimized LAser Cutter is a 40 watt CO2 laser cutter that supports a maximum part volume of 24" x 16" x 6.25". It consists of a V-slot frame + brackets/mounts designed to be 3D printed on a consumer desktop printer. Total cost of the machine is ~ $1,400 USD.

This build is for a testing rig to use while testing out different controller boards and CAM software for milling and routing. It is in the early stages, planning is complete, parts are ordered. Awaiting parts delivery to start build. Please not the BOM only covers parts from the OpenBuilds part store. I will be posting the other required items very shortly.

After use of the i3 Prusa 200x200x180, the volume increases to 300x300x450 on the V-Slot and driven by a Megatronics V3

Large scale delta robot using c-beam as the core frame component.

DIY Pano Head

HE3D K200 kit build

A DIY 3D printer. At beginning made from aluminium profiles, aluminium sheet and wood :)

I want to have a printer to support senior projects. Also working on supporting 3D printing needs in the local community.

This printer will leverage scrap pieces around the shop to fulfill a single print's needs. It will use a combination of 80/20, OpenBuilds, and 3D printed parts.

I have parts that are apparently not suited to a cnc router or a 3d printer. I am still trying to figure out what to make out of what I have,

I've owned some pretty unreliable printers, and I'll leave it at that... This design comes from the need to have a 3D printer that is reliable, period. I didn't have the money for a several thousand dollar 3d printer with an equivalent build area so that was out of the question. Plus as a fledgling Engineer, I really wanted to blood myself on a project. And that's how Old Faithful came to be. A simple, reliable, rigid, durable machine. Made by me :) Also, it'll be tough enough for light CNC.

Ooznest Ox with gantry plates and end caps 3D printed in ABS rather than aluminum.

Please, look over my build and make any recommendations you can think of! I haven't figured out how long my arms need to be yet. Nor have I done any shopping around to find better prices...

We wanted to create a rapid prototyping machine with excellent 3D printing, laser cutting and engraving, and light CNC router work capabilities.

This 1500mm tall Delta is a work in progress. The triangle corners are water jetted from 1" 6061 Aluminum, and are welded to 1" square tubing. The 1500mm OpenBuilds 20x20 V-Slot extrusions are held into the corner brackets by two stainless steel set screws per bracket. This printer will need to be reinforced with wall brackets due to the combination of height/materials.

So we have new plates, stronger motors, belt drive reduction, but what should we do with them? In this article you might find the answer you were looking for as we took an “old” C-Beam machine and started to upgrade the X/Z body and added more torque and precision to the Z-axis.

High quality e3d parts with a minimalist design

Kind of hard to see in this pic now lining up drive s and finishing framework

CNC OX 1500X3000

I have re-purposed many of the parts from my Linear OX build. I'm using MGN 12 linear rails on all three axis, 5 start lead screws on the Z axis and I'm going to experiment with 5 start lead screw on the X axis. The frame plates are made from 1/8" laser cut mild steel, & open builds extrusion.

A light 3D printer made of OpenBuilds hardware only

A CNC router designed to handle a 4'x8' sheet, for as close to $2000 as possible. The price barrier resulted in my choice to use timing belts rather than leadscrews or rack&pinion. Build List still being updated

The whole system is powered by 12V / DC power. Process it into Pellets or Granules to use it with your 3D Printer or Filament Extruder. Our self-developed steppermotor Controls allows you to optimally adjust Feedrate for your Situation. Forward, Backward and Stop is integrated for easy operation. The Speed can be continuously regulated via rotary switch.

This is my own modified version of the D-Bot printer. I wanted to spec this printer to be able to print exotic materials at high accuracy with little to no compromises and maximum reliability.

Sheethexapod works with basic mechanims as direct metal-metal links and joints, all movements can be done by a rc servomotor in this case towerpro model.

Currently I have Velleman/3Drag K8200 modified and CNC machine self built and wanted to use both to make new 3D printer. After looking at different designs I liked Voron a lot and have decided to go that way. Currently I have ordered majority of parts and build shall start soon. I don't plan to rush it as I am usually 2 months home and 2 off.

OX Based CNC

This is my journey from a dream machine to a practical (for me) machine. This is a Cartesian style frame that can change tool heads quickly. The first version will have milling and 3D printing tool heads. Later on I'll add a drag knife tool head.

Fast, Large build area, CoreXY design

Delta 3d Printer using 3/4" Electrical Metal Tubing (EMT) for Horizontals & 2060 V-Slot for the Verticals and adding a tetrahedron at the top.

History about making 3d printer.

Building a Delta-6 variant, using recycled parts from a WolfStock Delta printer.

Hi! This build is, or at least should be, a multipurpose box (mBOX). Due to limited space I want to build something that can serve multiple purposes such as 3d printing, 3d scan, plexiglass cutting and hopefully some milling too (both wood and metal). Switching between modes should involve switching heads and worksurface (change heatbed with a wood platform and viceversa). (for the scan part I'm thinking of integrating this opensource project into the frame: http://www.freelss.org/ )

A Rigid Delta Printer using C-Beam screw actuators

Watercooled 3D printer

H-Bot mechanics 3D printer. Build volume - 300x300x300mm dimensions: 560x500x500mm

This is a router that I designed that is loosely based on the Openbuilds Ox, but designed to be heavy duty, rigid, and yet quick and agile.

This is a deltabot 3D printer build using CNC routed MDF and v-slot rails. Full description found in instructables.com.

This is an inexpensive build, large volume 2225 cubic inch, CORE XY 3D printer providing decent speed with precise and repeatable precision with expandable features.

1000x1000mm Ballscrew driven OX Derivative. Dewalt 611 spindle and TB6600 Drivers.

This is a CNC Line Boring Machine for our cabinet shop. It drills the holes every 32 mm for the adjustable shelf pins in the cabinet side pieces. I chose this option over purchasing a multi-head boring machine that requires 11 drill bits - Left & Right hand twist - that also requires a lot of strength to plunge that many drill bits into the wood to be drilled.

This build will hopefully be 18x18x24 build space using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin firmware. Using NEMA 17 motors and belts to drive the X and Y axis, lead screws for the Z axis. The build plate will be heated with a delrin Y carriage for the glass and heatbed. Z axis motors will be top mounted. Possibly and ATX power supply.

Larger format FDM printer using C-Beam linear stages

3d Structured Light Scanner with Arduino Controlled Turntable

A robust Core XY style 3D printer that has a clean parallel belt implementation and whose dimensions are adaptable to meet builder's needs. The use of open builds V-slot and other open hardware make customization easy.

I like combo machines, so I upgrade my 3D Printer with a Laser. It is a double head combination. The Laser is easy removable.

The UltiBots CB3030 CNC uses C-Beam, V-Slot and an extruded aluminum T-Slot work table. This allows 6mm T-Nuts, step clamps and blocks to secure materials to the work surface. The all metal design makes the use of a mister possible.

This is a variant of a typical OX (Mark Carew inspiration) router using C-Beams/8mm Acme rods to drive all three axis. I went with a 1000mm x 1000mm frame size. Useable space is 28" (711mm) X 26" (660mm) with a Z axis work travel of approx. 3.25" (82.5mm). A TinyG is used as a controller along with Fusion 360/Chilipper as the software for generating and running gcode files.

This is an all metal build using OpenBuilds V-Slot linear rails to produce a high quality and cost effective 3D printer. The printer is designed to be scalable for your desired build area and can utilize high quality hotends with 16mm groove mounts such as E3D.

Over 840 parts. Of whom around 450 are screws and nuts, more than 100 parts are printed on a 3D printer, the frame consists of about 60 components. There is nearly 40 electrical components connected with tens of meters of wires, most of them sleeved.

My first build was with the basic C-Beam Build. I soon found the z clearance a little constricting So I added 2 500 mm actuators to support the x axis rail . I also left off the front and back y axis support rails for easy cleaning. I mounted the base of the machine to 1/2" mdf with 10/32 screws and blind nuts.

This is a simple cantilevered 3D Printer. It is designed around the OB V-Slot linear rails. I am trying to simplify this as much as possible, all rails will be 250mm long and only one will require cutting (it will be cut in half). The printer will use all OB wheels and gantry plates where applicable, all other plates can be either Laser Cut or 3D Printed (files will be provided for both). I am not set on electronic as of yet, but plan to use a single control board...no Arduino/Ramps control.

After completing a standard OX build, I found I didn't have enough Z-clearance and designed a set of taller gantry plates

Machined Aluminum MagBall Carriages