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      1. Build Progress:
        • Build in Progress...
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      About the build
      This build is for an all metal 3D printer that utilises OpenBuilds V-Slot linear rails and custom aluminium plates to create a high quality and cost effective 3D printer. I designed the printer with the following goals:
      • Use a minimal number of parts without compromising frame rigidity.
      • Be scalable printer for your desired build area.
      • Use remote hotends with a standard 16mm groove mount such as the E3D V6.
      • Build cost less than £400 (~$570)
      Latest Progress
      So far I have completed building most of the mechanical structure including frame and XYZ-axis assembles. The next stage is to mount the limit switches, wire up the electronics and build an electronics enclosure.
      When I have time I will upload step by step assembly instructions and more info about the build. Once the build is completed and tested I will upload: CAD files for the custom plates including 200*200 mm, 200*300 mm and 300*300 mm build plates; CAD 3D printer assembly; and a bill of materials.


      The version of the printer I am building has 360mm and 340mm of travel for the X and Y axis respectively, and the Z-axis has 360mm of travel. I will be using a 300*200 mm build plate and leaving room to upgrade to a 300*300 mm plate at a later date.

      Step 1 - Machine the custom plates

      I milled the plates out of 3mm thick aluminium, however the large build plate was milled from 4mm thick aluminium for extra rigidity. If you don't have access to a CNC machine you would be surprised how inexpressive it is for your local machine shop to make the plates for you especially with this simple design.
      1. Plates.jpg

      Step 2 - Mount the V Wheels

      I used Delrin V Wheels although you could use any of the full sized OpenBuilds wheels.
      2. Wheels.jpg

      Step 3 - Assemble the base frame

      Attach the two 60*20 V-Slot base beams to the 40*20 V-Slot Y-axis rail using 4 cast corner brackets and cross joining plate. Two T joining plates should be mounted on either end of the 60*20 V Slot base beams for mounting the top frame assembly in the next step. I used four 10mm thick rubber feet with M5 mounting holes to form a level base for the printer.
      3. base frame.jpg 3. Feet.jpg

      Step 4 - Assemble to the top frame

      Attach the two 20*40 V Slot Z-axis rails to the base assembly using 5 cast corner brackets and a T joining plate for each of the two rails. Attach the top 20*20 V Slot beam to the two 20*40 V Slot Z-axis rails using a cast corner bracket and a 90 degree joining plate. Remember to slide on the two Z-axis carriages before attaching the top beam.
      4. top frame.jpg

      Step 5- Assemble the X-axis

      Side on the X-axis carriage assembly onto the 20*40 V Slot X-axis rail then attach the rail to the two Z-axis carriages.
      5. X-axis.jpg

      Step 6 - Assemble the Y-axis

      First slide the build plate assembly onto the 20*40 V Slot Y axis rail then attach the Y-axis motor mount plate and Y-axis idler pulley plate to the ends of the rail.
      6. Y-axis.jpg

      Step 7 -Attach the Z-axis motor mount plates

      Attach the two Z-motor mount plates onto the the top frame assembly.
      7. Z motor mounts.jpg

      Step 8 - Attach the stepper motors

      Attach the 4 stepper motors and the 30 tooth GT2 timing pulleys to the X and Y axis motors.
      8. Stepper motors.jpg

      Step 9 - Install the timing belts

      Install the GT2 timing belts for the X and Y axis, use cable ties to secure the belts. Installing belt tensioners ensure the belts are tight.
      9. Belts.jpg 9. Belt tensioners.jpg

      Step 10 - Install the lead screw assemblies

      Install a lead screw assemblies including a 8mm-5mm flexible shaft coupler, 400mm lead screw and anti-backlash nut block to each of two the Z-axis.
      10. Lead scews and nuts.jpg 10. Lead screws and nuts (close-up).jpg

      Step 11 - Mount the hotend, extruder and heated bed

      The all metal hotend was mounted using a standard groove mount plate and the metal bowden extruder was mounted to the 20*20 V Slot to beam with M3 screws and T-nuts. The 200*300 aluminium mk2a heated bed was attached to the build plate assembly using a spring loaded M3 bed levelling kit. A sheet of Borosilicate glass is clamped onto the heated bed using bulldog clips.
      20160715_183839.jpg 20160715_183811.jpg 20160715_183910.jpg

      Attached Files:

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  • Build Details

    Build License:
    • CC - Attribution NonCommercial - Share Alike - CC BY NC SA

    Reason for this Build

    I wanted good quality 3D printer with a large build volume but I didn't want to spend more than £400. I couldn't find any printers on the market at my price point and I have wanted to build an v-slot printer for a while thus I started work on the Archer printer.

    Inspired by

    TEVO Tarantula I3
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