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SCoreXY

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Aleksandar, Dec 7, 2016.

  1. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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    Aleksandar published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
  2. BeTrue3D

    BeTrue3D Well-Known
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    Looking very nice. Pretty much identical with what I have planned. Functionally at least.
    Where do you get your metal parts machined?

    Also, why use old electronics? You get some real life limitations on your build, by building on dated 8bit controller.

    If you buy Duet WiFi you also get rid of the RaspBerry as it has build in dedicated webserver with direct true serial communication with the controller, instead of USB as raspberry has. Considering price for Rapsberry the Duet WiFi isn't that much more expensive in most cases. Especially considering the awesome drivers you also get :)

    If Duet WiFi is too expensive you might want to look at the 32bit MKS Sbase with smoothieware instead of the 8bit marlin.
     
    Aleksandar likes this.
  3. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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    Hello BeTrue3D,

    I was reconsidering electronics and MKS might be the way to go.

    Just started printing some parts and Alu machining will be done by myself as I have CNC router too. Built and designed by myself.
     
  4. BeTrue3D

    BeTrue3D Well-Known
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    Wow, lucky you, no wonder you can use fancy very nice brackets and such :)

    You shouldn't happen to live in the EU and be interested in machining my z-lift plate?

    I have my build over here, if interested: BeTrue3D Printer

    Regards,
    Morten Nielsen
    Denmark
     
  5. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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    Hello Morten,

    I live in Croatia and can make your plate if it will fit on 280x500 working area.
    I'll do mine in waterjet as it is not expensive and they provide material which is an issue over here as I can buy 1x1m only.
    For my brackets I have some rest pieces but I am waiting for some warmer days as it is around 0 in my basement.

    Anyway send me dxf or similar and I can check for you.
     
  6. BeTrue3D

    BeTrue3D Well-Known
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    Hello Aleksander.
    I've uploaded .dwg file. It will do? Included .pdf for good measure.
    It is 260 x 427 at the longest/widest points.
     

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  7. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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    Hello Morten,

    It looks ok. Size is fine.
    What thickness did you plan for this plate so I can start looking around?
    Any weight reduction holes/shapes in the plate?
     
  8. BeTrue3D

    BeTrue3D Well-Known
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    I thought 3mm if it's steel. I don't know how thick it should be if it is aluminium? It must not bend.

    I thought about making some holes for weight reduction, but I wouldn't know how to calculate how that would affect the strength of the plate. Would be bad to make it light and then have it bend.

    Any thoughts?
     
  9. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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    I would go with 6mm Alu and holes/shapes.
    Don't bother too much it will be strong enough for 3D printer as weight of 3D print is low and is sliding up/down only.
    What about working plate? Alu or something else?
     
  10. BeTrue3D

    BeTrue3D Well-Known
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    I am ordering workingplate from clever3d.de - It's going to be a black PEI-coated aluminium plate with lasered "logo" on the front edge.
    It's going to be 5mm thick.
    Have you looked if you had material to cut the plate? Asking as the people from clever3d.de can make the plate, but it's rather expensive :)
     
  11. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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    Hello Morten,

    I'll check today about plate.

    How much is PEI coated plate. I need 400x400mm.;)
     
  12. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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    Just c
    Just checked 410x410x8mm without PEI is 140Euro.:jawdrop:
     
  13. BeTrue3D

    BeTrue3D Well-Known
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    Than
    Thanks :)
    Price depends on size and also aa lot on color. They don't have 400x400 in their list, but make custom sizes, like mine.
    A 410x410 is going to be 8mm (mine is just 5mm) and is going to cost €140
    You can look at it at their shop - I have nothing to do with them.
    It's the size that kills the prize. A bed for ultimaker is €50. But maybe you could buy a 1 or 2mm thick PEI sheet instead and clip it on using clips instead of having to use tape with the much thinner PEI sheets.
     
  14. BeTrue3D

    BeTrue3D Well-Known
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    No, that is with PEI
     

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  15. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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    I have asked for price and 1m2 6mm thickness is almost 100Euro which is more than 6M ago as they claim it has gone up worldwide.:(
    Check locally and waterjet cut it. I did it in the past for many parts and it is great and not expensive.
     
  16. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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    20170226_103136.jpg 20170226_103143.jpg 20170226_103149.jpg 20170226_103157.jpg 20170226_103204.jpg Capture.JPG Capture2.JPG

    Got some time as per above proof and did a redesign and decided to go with Alu parts instead of printed.
    It is smooth in movement.
    Cubes for corners also machined from Alu but no time to fit yet.
     

    Attached Files:

    #16 Aleksandar, Mar 9, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2017
  17. ChuckWheat

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    i hate to be a bother, but are there any updates to this project? I'm thinking of building a printer for my university and this model would be perfect. Thanks :)
     
  18. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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    Sure
    Sure see above pics.
     
  19. fernando palacio edreira

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  20. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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    Thanks Fernando!!
     
  21. Thirkell

    Thirkell New
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    Is there any chance you could share your CAD. This really looks really well thought out. I am very impressed. Well done!
    The CNC must help alot
     
  22. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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    Hello Thirkell,

    I am now opting for different z axis drive with one motor belt and 2 Tr screws. Once done and tested I'll publish all.
     
  23. Thirkell

    Thirkell New
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    Many thanks!
     
  24. panch47

    panch47 New
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    Hi, your printer looks fabulous ! Simple, clean, strong. Do you have any CAD file? Is 2020 extrusion enough for this printer size?
     
  25. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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  26. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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    When I was connecting electronics I was bewildered with mks and smoothieware but it is quite simple.

    Did some speed testing and must addmit that it is nice and smooth. Last speed is 24000mm/min.

    Waiting to see the prints.

     
    GrayUK likes this.
  27. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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  28. Gatchaman

    Gatchaman New
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    Hi Aleksander and thank you for building your SCoreXY. I registered just for your build.

    AS you might have heard the UK is leaving the EU so I'm building a big list of parts to order from Aliexpress in order to ride out the coming years. Who knows what is going to happen but I'd just like to get the order out before March hits and things go truly tits up.

    I'm using the Voron 1.6 configurator to build a list of bulk components to order. Going to convert/recycle my first printer in the office which is a P802M to (S)CoreXY and build a 300mm(xy) and 400mm(xy) printers that will hopefully last me for a VERY long time.

    I bumped into the Voron from your build and Tronxy X5S and liked the look of the X5S simplicity so will jump from Blender3d to learn Fusion360 to build my own version of a X5S if I can.

    So I'll try to convert a P802m to your SCoreXY, if possible build a 400mm SCoreXY and clone a 300mm X5S.

    I won’t be using alu like you until I can find a place to cut the parts so I'll print parts and use 2020 instead.

    Is there any news or a basic BOM to get a start on yet? Even if you change things, as long as I can swap it with something I've already ordered it won’t matter if you do.

    I hope you read this and post an update soon before we, most likely, crash out of the EU........

    Thanks once again for the SCoreXY!
     
    #28 Gatchaman, Feb 20, 2019
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2019
  29. Aleksandar

    Aleksandar Journeyman
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    Great that you like it.
    I built it and used for some but couldnt get rid of Z banding. Tried version with 3 TR8x2 rods but still same problems. Order ball screws 12x4 as they are much better than TR.
    After some time I used same parts to build Taz6 version but larger 350mm3 which is working nice.
    If I can assist let me know.
     
  30. Gatchaman

    Gatchaman New
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    Hi and thank you for replying so quickly.
    Getting back to the printer I'm suprised you didn't make the issue known to people here. Maybe someone had the answer to the banding issue. You did touch on the issue with post #22 but nothing else after that.
    Would it be possible to finalise the details, Sketchup, CAD, and a BOM of the project even though it failed?
    You said "Core XY build, initially based on Voron printer but modified completely later on." I know you've moved on and are done and dusted with the SCoreXY but for me to try to build one would be impossible without your design? Did you use the exact same size frame as the configurator recommended then gut the whole lot and start again?
    If I used the Voron 1.6 configurator will that be enough to build a SCoreXY? The simplicity of your design is why I would like to build one with my own modifications (in time) if possible even with the Z banding issue it won't be a problem for me as I'm not looking for absolutly perfect prints.
    Thanks again for everything!
     

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