The aim of this design is to build a simple, cost effective (under $1000) and relatively compact large volume (m3) 3D printer that will use a pellet extruder to create art/design objects using shredded recycled plastics.

A posi-drive leveling printer in 300x300x380mm format that easily breaks down for suitcase size shipping.

The crypt-cube is another project I've been working on off and on over the past year, unlike my previous built C3DO this is a much smaller built with a volume of 318mm x 240mm x 220mm. With this build my main focus is precision and speed.

Large 2 foot x 3 foot x 4.5 foot build volume Core XY printer build in process at this point. I am designing everything from scratch and using typincal parts bought from amazon for the build.

Easy to build - affordable opensource DIY CoreXY 3d Printer for fast reliable prototyping on your desktop - All wheels and V-Slots for smooth quick moves and opensource firmware on 8 or 32 bit controllers

A dual extrusion CoreXY printer with a 290 X 290mm build volume built entirely out of 2020 aluminum extrusion and using openbuilds mini-carriages for motion.

Cross-beam Cartesian 3d printer with dual master/slave lightweight fiberglass drive shafts, BMG style extruder with Bowden (Capricorn) tubing. Hot end is Creality Ender 3 style with two fans and BLTouch for autoleveling. Filament runout sensor is also included.

Large 600mm x 350mm x 350mm Build Volume with lead screw driven motion. The printer build has a moving gantry and fixed heat bed. Open Source

20x26x28 inch Build Volume CoreXY. Unlike many builds, I've decoupled the XY movements from the Z-Axis lead screws to help prevent Wobble, will be using linear guide rails, and mains powered bed heater, and a bed that is Allowed to thermally grow. This build is JUST narrow enough to fit through a standard sized doorway.

Dirt cheap build.

Transformation of an OpenBuilds Mini Mill into a convertible 3D printer / CNC mill with interchangeable tooling. Maybe a bonus conversion TBD.

Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2(s), MK2.5 and MK3 3D printer

Major rebuild of my Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus.

A robust Core XY style 3D printer that has a clean parallel belt implementation and whose dimensions are adaptable to meet builder's needs. The use of open builds V-slot and other open hardware make customization easy.

Based on D-Bot but used more metal bracing / openbuild plates instead of plastic parts. Also size was increased.

All metal frame 500mm bed Delta 3D printer

New ultra large 3D Printer design. I'm calling it the AutoCrafter

Building a CoreXY based 3D printer using primarily parts from China on eBay. Large 500mm frame.

In-progress 500x500x1800

A 250x250 mm Delta Printer utilizing a Duet Wifi controller and a Titan Aero direct drive extruder.

The process from my bought printer, to a custom home built machine

V-King CoreXY 3d Printer- 380*340*340 Build volume - All wheels on V-Slots - Belts on XYZ - High quality and controlled design - Proven fast, reliable and it is all open source

Started with a Rigidbot Big Added a single flat glass bed Used a Smoothieboard clone driving DRV8825

probably as big as you'd want it...

Core-XY build witha quad nozzle

Super tall 3D printer. All lead screw design.

This build includes the design of a large FDM 3D printer. This machine has a 796mm by 796mm by 900mm (LxWxH) build volume. Motion is controlled by servo motors and the printer runs on python-based marlin firmware.

A slightly more than one half cubic meter 3D Printer using V Rails, V Rollers, "C" Rail, mounting plates, and a bunch of 3D printed brackets to provide strength and stability to the frame. Rigidity was the goal and precision and accuracy the result. The software is a whole other topic, many weeks spent dialing that in to make the printer print.

My first 3D printer build. It is almost complete and will be posting the first completed print shortly. I still need to mount the print spools and a couple other odd ends to complete this.

Video on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCTbLZ2_m-w&t=36s

2in1 ( 3dPrint+laser Engraving )

I myself invented this concept printer form

This specific build page is a collection of screenshots sampling some of my initial SolidWorks design and pictures showing physical construction of the initial design. I will be creating individual build articles as I redesign, test, and implement new aspects of the printer.

tronxy x3 like

My self-designed and built, tall-format coreXY printer with 300 x 300 x695 mm print capacity.

Build Notes: Here are all the parts necessary to re-produce this design. Please note, all of the parts are either sourced through openbuilds or have been selected and printed from thingiverse.

After use of the i3 Prusa 200x200x180, the volume increases to 300x300x450 on the V-Slot and driven by a Megatronics V3

Fully OpenBuilds based Core XY printer design by Rat Rig. CAD files, build manual, build videos available!

This is a remix of Marshal Peck's Voxel OX, with some design tweaks inspired by Makerparts and jjcolletta. It has a build area of 300mm X 300mm X 480mm, but is easily configured for just about any build area up to 500mm X 500mm X 750mm. I have used some laser cut acrylic plates and a couple of 3D printed parts in its construction, however it can be assembled using nothing but OpenBuilds parts with the exception of the heated bed and the Y axis carrier for the heated bed.

As this is a build in progress, I will update it as I progress.

This is a modification I made to my Voxel Ox 3D Printer Z axis, which synchronizes the Z leadscrews via a shaft and helical gear transmission. It prevents the two Z leadscrew from getting out of adjustment relative to each other, and uses a single Z motor instead of two. This build is just documenting the specific changes I have made to the Z-axis, since the frame and other axes are still from the original Voxel Ox design.

pictures and mony doku see later

CoreXY printer heavily inspired by e3d's new open source printer with tool changing. I intend to make it so when e3d start selling toolheads these can be added to the machine without any major work having to be done.

Light enough for high speed #3dprinting Strong enough for high speed #3dprinting

GT2 belt-driven Cartesian 3D Printer on an OpenBuilds Extrusion gantry, developed through Autodesk Fusion 360.

This will be a fixed bed, v-slot implemented X,Y,Z axis gantry style 3D printer.

A version of TrueUp using linear bearings/rods for the Z axis. This required enough modification to make a separate OpenBuilds project to avoid confusion for DIYers.

A beefed up modification of the TrueUp Kit project

This my version of a large no corners cut Delta.

This is a at home built 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm 3d printer. It uses mainly parts from OpenBuild Parts and is very simple to build. The only thing that was custom was the build plate which was designed by myself and tooled at a local machine shop.

Cheap, experimental Modification to Tevo Little Monster's bowden system for the extruder

Make a vinyl burrito ENCLOSURE for your TEVO LITTLE MONSTER for < $30 (<$20 if you don't have your vinyl shipped!)

Ultimately - the design is based on the highly successful Ultimaker concept, for which a regular size costs in the thousands, and one of this size would be edging into the 10's of thousands. Expected Build cost - <$800 It is a X/Y Cartesian printer with Raising/Lowering Z axis (Hotbed.) - Overall size is 610mm x 610mm x 750mm - with build volume of around 450mmx450mmx450mm - and will also have the ability to change work tools - such as for CNC Routing, Lazer etching, 3d Scanning, etc.

This printer is a design that has evolved over three years. The original goals of this project were to design a rigid printer that had a large print volume, 300mm^3, with easily sources parts and a minimum of complicated printed parts.

In my opinion, this is the easiest and most complete tutorial to walk you through building a large platform 3D printer and the Sketchup File is included for you to make any changes needed.. The Plastic Beast is a CoreXY Printer with a build platform of 440mm square. You can print 600mm or about 23 inches diagonal. Any level of user from novice to expert should gain something from my tutorial.

Mad plumbers choice what Else can i say?

D-Bot with a Replicate controller.

Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2 / MK2s / MK2.5 3D printer

3D printer with 7 drivers, compact, dual extruder, no CNC part. All Openbuilds and 3D printed part. This is purely experimental.

I wanted a machine that could easily switch between 3D Printing and Laser Engraving

I built a custom delta using 3, 1000 mm long C-Beam® Linear Rails and 3 C-Beam Gantry Sets. I had the bottom and top plates water jetted ( for accuracy ) out of 1/2 inch aluminum, from a design that I did in Fusion 360.

Large format printer build based off successful small Corexy. I figured it could be scaled to large format and be portable. Portable meaning by removing a few pieces it could effectively be rotated out of a standard door frame.

Components- RAMPS, running marlin, Nema 17, All metal extruder, 600mm lead screws, 600mm 2020 aluminum extrusions, 12v 30a power supply, 12v LED strip, Typical endstops, 600mm 8mm linear rods, Bearing block for 8mm bearings, Openbuilds plates, wheels, and bearings, 500x500mm borosilicate glass plate

I wanted to try a different way of operating the Z Axis so I setup a tower using 40x40. In the end it worked excellently and can easily print 60mm/s with 150mm/s travels. The coreXY is a very cool kinematic, and you can get some pretty great speed and accuracy. The main issue is the fact your Steps/mm are doubled, so the lower end motors don't like it at high speeds.

A TrueUp Glide modified to use 20x40 V-Slot with a 300x300 bed.

My first printer! I went for a simple cartesian design, based on evilc66 one. It uses 1000 mm C-beam linear actuators. The build volume is 700x700x700 mm^3.

Just now in the planning phase of my build. Waiting for some parts to come in to see what I am going to build off of. Print area going to be close to 300x300x350. Trying to decide if I want it enclosed. I do want to print ABS... so probably so.

My original Tevo Tarantula kit was ok..... I had issues with the X gantry staying level. I got rid of the wheels and replaced them with linear block bearings. I still had some issues with the X gantry. I swapped out the plastic parts with aluminum which was much better. Still not what I want yet

This design should give the same performance as the high speed Ultimaker since it uses a similar ultra-light X/Y concept which eliminates any movement of both the X and Y motors to achieve X/Y travel.

A smaller version of a standard D-bot. Smaller to fit better in my workable area and to fit my vision for the printer.

Toying around a concept. Inputs are welcome on whether to use lead screw or belt drive. My lead screw will be single start 500 mm lenght, 2 mm pitch and 2 mm lead. Nema 17 motors will be used. All veterans, suggestions please.

A simplified version of the TrueUp LZ. Designed for classrooms and students

Coming soon

An enclosed cube shaped 3D printer using CoreXY motion. Fabricated from V slot extrusion, standard extrusion, aluminium plate and acrylic sheet using basic workshop tools. Using standard RAMPS/ Reprap electronics. Technically a 'Repstrap' currently used to build a true 'Reprap'

A Large Printer that will hopefully be able to print at least 45cm cubed

This is my first attempt at building my own 3d printer.

My goal is to upgrade the acrylic ANET A8 to all metal.

The QuorXZ doesn't magically appear. It's gestation takes time, careful attention, and requires many parts. However, when it is ready, a magical, mechanical instrument is born....(and when you finally say its name, it sounds a little bit like "corks").

First CoreXY. Simple Square build, hopes for faster movements.

My first construction after many years buys ready devices.

A Cartesian printer using bushings for the Z axis instead of wheels or linear bearings. The design also synchronizes two Z axis screws with a timing belt for a level lift. The ratio of the drive pulley and Z axis pulleys produce .005 lift per full step on a 200 step motor, eliminating layer resolution "drift" caused by microstepping.

A lightweight, portable, accurate 3D Printer that has a good sized print area and small overall footprint that is easy to build, with easy to source components. The design is OpenSource allowing those with the capability to make their own parts get up and running.

As a tinkerer and hobbyist I need a reliable quality printer on a budget... Meaning I'm not looking to buy a: Prusa, Zortrax or LulzBot because of the added cost their marketing adds. I can definitely build a machine of hopefully equal quality at a lower cost that is not impacted by the marked-up priced from a large reputable manufacturer. I will need to dedicate time and more time for design shakedowns to ensure I produce a quality machine. Bare with me on this build... Thanks!

Probably cheapest DIY build youl see.

A stout 3D printer build with the hopes of being able to serve as a light mill (PCB) and laser engraver

just wanted to share my build of a huge 3d printer. It stands just over 2 meters tall and has a total print area of around 850mm x 850mm.

SLA LCD 3D Printer ( 8.9'' LCD screen )

This project is focused on developing a low-cost, portable and open-source FDM 3D Printer.

The plan is to make this a fairly stock D-Bot build. We'll see if mods start creeping in.

This is my latest printer build. The second printer I've built using V-Slot.

A Large CoreXY build that can just barely get in through a doorway, aiming for under $1000. Build Volume approximately 18in x 24in x 26in.

Wanna quet an nice looking device done by my hands

An open source 3D printer design with a sturdy V-Slot frame

A cartesian build with a build dimension of 200x200x750mm. I will be using a dual extruder, heated build plate, and a screw drive for the z axis.

Dead build.

A brief write up of the making of the FLSUN Delta Kit. This kit is based on an open source design. I had a need for a 3D printer without the desire to dive into another project, so a kit was the obvious way to go. I already have a delta printer in the works and so this is more of a stop gap in the interim.

The 3D printer will be able to print 2x2x2m components and not just in PLA or ABS. It's not just a DIY printer but I'm trying to apply engineering formulas to make it. I'm going to apply the state of art for 3D printing and scannering existing.

Modified Tevo

an 8020 build with 1010 extrusion (1") Square tubing Rough size is 24x24x36 (600x600x900) The expected usable print area 21.5x21.5X32"roughly (510x510x760) An XY 3D printer with 3 extruders and 3 Z-axis 0.9 degree motors the table (Z-AXIS) will lift up to the XY Carriage on 3 12mm linear rod and 3 8mm Lead screw's Corexy designs complete and Z-axis build is started don’t have a 3D cad system yet so building my prototypes on a pcb layout tool

A quiet, 8inx8in build area, Cartesian printer with permanently level bed. This is a compact, solid, inexpensive printer that will reliably print any type filament for thousands of hours while you sleep, fish, or play ball in the park.