V-King CoreXY 3d Printer- 380*340*340 Build volume - All wheels on V-Slots - Belts on XYZ - High quality and controlled design - Proven fast, reliable and it is all open source

2in1 ( 3dPrint+laser Engraving )

Delta 3d Printer using 3/4" Electrical Metal Tubing (EMT) for Horizontals & 2060 V-Slot for the Verticals and adding a tetrahedron at the top.

I myself invented this concept printer form

An open source 3D printer design with a sturdy V-Slot frame

Super Rigid CoreXY 3D Printer

This my version of a large no corners cut Delta.

My first 3D printer build. It is almost complete and will be posting the first completed print shortly. I still need to mount the print spools and a couple other odd ends to complete this.

Fully OpenBuilds based Core XY printer design by Rat Rig. CAD files, build manual, build videos available!

Large scale delta robot using c-beam as the core frame component.

A robust Core XY style 3D printer that has a clean parallel belt implementation and whose dimensions are adaptable to meet builder's needs. The use of open builds V-slot and other open hardware make customization easy.

CoreXY printer heavily inspired by e3d's new open source printer with tool changing. I intend to make it so when e3d start selling toolheads these can be added to the machine without any major work having to be done.

Maximus Evolution : 380mm x 400mm XL 3D Printer

SLA resin printer based on a gen3/4 iPad Retina display. The design intent is to create a printer with the highest resolution possible with a lower cost of entry compared to DLP projector based SLA printers.

This specific build page is a collection of screenshots sampling some of my initial SolidWorks design and pictures showing physical construction of the initial design. I will be creating individual build articles as I redesign, test, and implement new aspects of the printer.

An enclosed cube shaped 3D printer using CoreXY motion. Fabricated from V slot extrusion, standard extrusion, aluminium plate and acrylic sheet using basic workshop tools. Using standard RAMPS/ Reprap electronics. Technically a 'Repstrap' currently used to build a true 'Reprap'

A beefed up modification of the TrueUp Kit project

Build Notes: Here are all the parts necessary to re-produce this design. Please note, all of the parts are either sourced through openbuilds or have been selected and printed from thingiverse.

Ultimately - the design is based on the highly successful Ultimaker concept, for which a regular size costs in the thousands, and one of this size would be edging into the 10's of thousands. Expected Build cost - <$800 It is a X/Y Cartesian printer with Raising/Lowering Z axis (Hotbed.) - Overall size is 610mm x 610mm x 750mm - with build volume of around 450mmx450mmx450mm - and will also have the ability to change work tools - such as for CNC Routing, Lazer etching, 3d Scanning, etc.

Huge - Fast - Affordable

This is a modification I made to my Voxel Ox 3D Printer Z axis, which synchronizes the Z leadscrews via a shaft and helical gear transmission. It prevents the two Z leadscrew from getting out of adjustment relative to each other, and uses a single Z motor instead of two. This build is just documenting the specific changes I have made to the Z-axis, since the frame and other axes are still from the original Voxel Ox design.

My self-designed and built, tall-format coreXY printer with 300 x 300 x695 mm print capacity.

tronxy x3 like

A lightweight, portable, accurate 3D Printer that has a good sized print area and small overall footprint that is easy to build, with easy to source components. The design is OpenSource allowing those with the capability to make their own parts get up and running.

Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2(s), MK2.5 and MK3 3D printer

A version of TrueUp using linear bearings/rods for the Z axis. This required enough modification to make a separate OpenBuilds project to avoid confusion for DIYers.

A Cartesian printer using bushings for the Z axis instead of wheels or linear bearings. The design also synchronizes two Z axis screws with a timing belt for a level lift. The ratio of the drive pulley and Z axis pulleys produce .005 lift per full step on a 200 step motor, eliminating layer resolution "drift" caused by microstepping.

This printer is a design that has evolved over three years. The original goals of this project were to design a rigid printer that had a large print volume, 300mm^3, with easily sources parts and a minimum of complicated printed parts.

As this is a build in progress, I will update it as I progress.

pictures and mony doku see later

This is a remix of Marshal Peck's Voxel OX, with some design tweaks inspired by Makerparts and jjcolletta. It has a build area of 300mm X 300mm X 480mm, but is easily configured for just about any build area up to 500mm X 500mm X 750mm. I have used some laser cut acrylic plates and a couple of 3D printed parts in its construction, however it can be assembled using nothing but OpenBuilds parts with the exception of the heated bed and the Y axis carrier for the heated bed.

Light enough for high speed #3dprinting Strong enough for high speed #3dprinting

GT2 belt-driven Cartesian 3D Printer on an OpenBuilds Extrusion gantry, developed through Autodesk Fusion 360.

This will be a fixed bed, v-slot implemented X,Y,Z axis gantry style 3D printer.

This is a at home built 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm 3d printer. It uses mainly parts from OpenBuild Parts and is very simple to build. The only thing that was custom was the build plate which was designed by myself and tooled at a local machine shop.

Cheap, experimental Modification to Tevo Little Monster's bowden system for the extruder

A Cartesian printer using bushings for the Z axis instead of wheels or linear bearings. The design also synchronizes two Z axis screws with a timing belt for a level lift. The ratio of the drive pulley and Z axis pulleys produce .005 lift per full step on a 200 step motor, eliminating layer resolution "drift" caused by microstepping.

My original Tevo Tarantula kit was ok..... I had issues with the X gantry staying level. I got rid of the wheels and replaced them with linear block bearings. I still had some issues with the X gantry. I swapped out the plastic parts with aluminum which was much better. Still not what I want yet

Make a vinyl burrito ENCLOSURE for your TEVO LITTLE MONSTER for < $30 (<$20 if you don't have your vinyl shipped!)

Roberta Clementine's first daughter printer Alice Clementine!

SLA LCD 3D Printer ( 8.9'' LCD screen )

The process from my bought printer, to a custom home built machine

In my opinion, this is the easiest and most complete tutorial to walk you through building a large platform 3D printer and the Sketchup File is included for you to make any changes needed.. The Plastic Beast is a CoreXY Printer with a build platform of 440mm square. You can print 600mm or about 23 inches diagonal. Any level of user from novice to expert should gain something from my tutorial.

Larger format FDM printer using C-Beam linear stages

OKMI 3d Printer based on CoreXY

3D Printer based upon 3d printed parts and open builds componets

Mad plumbers choice what Else can i say?

Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2 / MK2s / MK2.5 3D printer

D-Bot with a Replicate controller.

I built a custom delta using 3, 1000 mm long C-Beam® Linear Rails and 3 C-Beam Gantry Sets. I had the bottom and top plates water jetted ( for accuracy ) out of 1/2 inch aluminum, from a design that I did in Fusion 360.

Large Core XY 3d Printer W/fixed build plate

3D printer with 7 drivers, compact, dual extruder, no CNC part. All Openbuilds and 3D printed part. This is purely experimental.

A quiet, 8inx8in build area, Cartesian printer with permanently level bed. This is a compact, solid, inexpensive printer that will reliably print any type filament for thousands of hours while you sleep, fish, or play ball in the park.

This is an all metal build using OpenBuilds V-Slot linear rails to produce a high quality and cost effective 3D printer. The printer is designed to be scalable for your desired build area and can utilize high quality hotends with 16mm groove mounts such as E3D.

Large format printer build based off successful small Corexy. I figured it could be scaled to large format and be portable. Portable meaning by removing a few pieces it could effectively be rotated out of a standard door frame.

High Quality CoreXY with focus on quality and optimized printarea versus physical size of the printer.

This is my latest printer build. The second printer I've built using V-Slot.

My first printer! I went for a simple cartesian design, based on evilc66 one. It uses 1000 mm C-beam linear actuators. The build volume is 700x700x700 mm^3.

I wanted a machine that could easily switch between 3D Printing and Laser Engraving

Currently I have Velleman/3Drag K8200 modified and CNC machine self built and wanted to use both to make new 3D printer. After looking at different designs I liked Voron a lot and have decided to go that way. Currently I have ordered majority of parts and build shall start soon. I don't plan to rush it as I am usually 2 months home and 2 off.

Components- RAMPS, running marlin, Nema 17, All metal extruder, 600mm lead screws, 600mm 2020 aluminum extrusions, 12v 30a power supply, 12v LED strip, Typical endstops, 600mm 8mm linear rods, Bearing block for 8mm bearings, Openbuilds plates, wheels, and bearings, 500x500mm borosilicate glass plate

I wanted to try a different way of operating the Z Axis so I setup a tower using 40x40. In the end it worked excellently and can easily print 60mm/s with 150mm/s travels. The coreXY is a very cool kinematic, and you can get some pretty great speed and accuracy. The main issue is the fact your Steps/mm are doubled, so the lower end motors don't like it at high speeds.

Fast, Large build area, CoreXY design

A TrueUp Glide modified to use 20x40 V-Slot with a 300x300 bed.

Just now in the planning phase of my build. Waiting for some parts to come in to see what I am going to build off of. Print area going to be close to 300x300x350. Trying to decide if I want it enclosed. I do want to print ABS... so probably so.

My goal is to upgrade the acrylic ANET A8 to all metal.

This 3D printer is an implementation of the Ultimaker 3D printer Using the Modular approach, many of the parts from the CubeSpawn 3 axis mill translate straight across into this design, so adding new concepts should go quicker

Based on D-Bot but used more metal bracing / openbuild plates instead of plastic parts. Also size was increased.

Toying around a concept. Inputs are welcome on whether to use lead screw or belt drive. My lead screw will be single start 500 mm lenght, 2 mm pitch and 2 mm lead. Nema 17 motors will be used. All veterans, suggestions please.

Modified Tevo

I recently completed my C-Beam Plate Maker build ( http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/rsws-c-beam-build.4286/ ) and quickly got the build bug. I was looking for something to make with the new C-Beam and decided its time to venture into the 3D printer world. I can honestly say I have never been in the same room with a 3D printer, so this is going to be a learning experience. I spent some time browsing the 3D printer builds and finally decided to copy the Talos3D by AlexLee.

This design should give the same performance as the high speed Ultimaker since it uses a similar ultra-light X/Y concept which eliminates any movement of both the X and Y motors to achieve X/Y travel.

A smaller version of a standard D-bot. Smaller to fit better in my workable area and to fit my vision for the printer.

A simplified version of the TrueUp LZ. Designed for classrooms and students

Lord willing I will be showing you how build a robust and easy to build 3D printer framework using V-Slot rails and rollers. It's a little bulky, but it has all spring tensioned rollers on all axes, and can be built entirely without custom machining on any parts. You will need digital calipers, a drill press, a carbide toothed miter saw for cutting aluminum extrusions, and lots of little screws!

Coming soon

This is a breakdown of how I designed the UltiFaker 2 Go as well as how I machined and assembled it. I'll include a complete BOM and all of the drawings and prices.

A dual extrusion CoreXY printer with a 290 X 290mm build volume built entirely out of 2020 aluminum extrusion and using openbuilds mini-carriages for motion.

Taller and wider MendelMax 1.5 spinoff

What a way to learn about 3D printing

High quality e3d parts with a minimalist design

A Large Printer that will hopefully be able to print at least 45cm cubed

CoreXZ implementation on 3d printer using Openbuild and RobotDigg parts.

The 3D printer will be able to print 2x2x2m components and not just in PLA or ABS. It's not just a DIY printer but I'm trying to apply engineering formulas to make it. I'm going to apply the state of art for 3D printing and scannering existing.

This is my first attempt at building my own 3d printer.

I am building a simple home brewed printer. I have a background in industrial automation so I figured how hard could this be. The mechanical build was pretty smooth as was the electrical side. Now just getting plastic out the hotend is my stopping point.

The QuorXZ doesn't magically appear. It's gestation takes time, careful attention, and requires many parts. However, when it is ready, a magical, mechanical instrument is born....(and when you finally say its name, it sounds a little bit like "corks").

First CoreXY. Simple Square build, hopes for faster movements.

My first construction after many years buys ready devices.

just wanted to share my build of a huge 3d printer. It stands just over 2 meters tall and has a total print area of around 850mm x 850mm.

Building a Delta-6 variant, using recycled parts from a WolfStock Delta printer.

A Large CoreXY build that can just barely get in through a doorway, aiming for under $1000. Build Volume approximately 18in x 24in x 26in.

As a tinkerer and hobbyist I need a reliable quality printer on a budget... Meaning I'm not looking to buy a: Prusa, Zortrax or LulzBot because of the added cost their marketing adds. I can definitely build a machine of hopefully equal quality at a lower cost that is not impacted by the marked-up priced from a large reputable manufacturer. I will need to dedicate time and more time for design shakedowns to ensure I produce a quality machine. Bare with me on this build... Thanks!

Probably cheapest DIY build youl see.

Building upon the great work done by Marshall Peck and others. I have started a new build.

A stout 3D printer build with the hopes of being able to serve as a light mill (PCB) and laser engraver

Polar Bot which used to depress buttons

Super rigid Delta printer, using 20X40 V-Slot

A steel framed 3D printer using a similar design with my CNC Router.

I have re-purposed many of the parts from my Linear OX build. I'm using MGN 12 linear rails on all three axis, 5 start lead screws on the Z axis and I'm going to experiment with 5 start lead screw on the X axis. The frame plates are made from 1/8" laser cut mild steel, & open builds extrusion.