Mid range build.

My first Build with V-slot

Openbuilds ACRO

A Laut3k derivative that goes for volume and large number of print materials at the same time. Using OpenBuild linear motion systems to get away from belt drives.

How to build an Independent Dual EXtruder (IDEX) 3D printer from OpenBuilds parts.

Hello ! This is my very first OpenBuilds build. It's based on the Maximus 3D Printer, published by mytechno3d : good source of inspiration !

Let me explain: About a year ago I was planning to build a CNC router of my own design. I started gathering components including the THK linear rails. I soon found out you pretty much need a CNC to build a CNC and this is when I decided to build my Sphinx machine. I've had these rails and some other parts sitting around so it's time I used them! I'm planning to incorporate linear rails and 1605 ballscrews into the Sphinx design. I really like the overall appearance of the Sphinx.

probably as big as you'd want it...

This build is made by students from Fontys Hogescholen Eindhoven, department Engineering. Every quarter a new group continues the work of the previous group. We have been working on the project since september 2015, and as it is a work in progress, a lot will be added later. The first months have mainly been about designing and building an XY-table on which later all the electronic components will be added and the laser.

Custom build plate for 300mm x 300mm (12"x12"). The hole pattern is for the 20x60 V Slot

Someone donated a E3D Volcano to me (http://e3d-online.com/Volcano/V6-VOLCANO-POWER-PACK-175-UNIVERSAL-24V) and with a super hotend like that, it feels like a waste to stick it into a small 3D printer. So I decided I want a 320x220mm (XY) machine, 200mm Z is plenty for me

My first construction after many years buys ready devices.

The original plan was to build a 3d printer with a 1200x1200 build platform with a 600mm build height. I was having issues getting ahold of a large enough borosilicate glass plate for the build so I decided to go for build height. I plan on using a smoothieboard for the controller. The build has currently slowed down. I was removing a broken drillbit from the linear rail mount, and it shattered and took out my eye. I am doing what I can when I can focus my eyes long enough for the build.

I recently completed my C-Beam Plate Maker build ( http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/rsws-c-beam-build.4286/ ) and quickly got the build bug. I was looking for something to make with the new C-Beam and decided its time to venture into the 3D printer world. I can honestly say I have never been in the same room with a 3D printer, so this is going to be a learning experience. I spent some time browsing the 3D printer builds and finally decided to copy the Talos3D by AlexLee.

A portable 3D Printer that can flat pack into a hard carry case

This is my journey from a dream machine to a practical (for me) machine. This is a Cartesian style frame that can change tool heads quickly. The first version will have milling and 3D printing tool heads. Later on I'll add a drag knife tool head.

Over 840 parts. Of whom around 450 are screws and nuts, more than 100 parts are printed on a 3D printer, the frame consists of about 60 components. There is nearly 40 electrical components connected with tens of meters of wires, most of them sleeved.

This is an inexpensive build, large volume 2225 cubic inch, CORE XY 3D printer providing decent speed with precise and repeatable precision with expandable features.

Ultimately - the design is based on the highly successful Ultimaker concept, for which a regular size costs in the thousands, and one of this size would be edging into the 10's of thousands. Expected Build cost - <$800 It is a X/Y Cartesian printer with Raising/Lowering Z axis (Hotbed.) - Overall size is 610mm x 610mm x 750mm - with build volume of around 450mmx450mmx450mm - and will also have the ability to change work tools - such as for CNC Routing, Lazer etching, 3d Scanning, etc.

This is a variant of a typical OX (Mark Carew inspiration) router using C-Beams/8mm Acme rods to drive all three axis. I went with a 1000mm x 1000mm frame size. Useable space is 28" (711mm) X 26" (660mm) with a Z axis work travel of approx. 3.25" (82.5mm). A TinyG is used as a controller along with Fusion 360/Chilipper as the software for generating and running gcode files.

A cool project about my cnc machines unique style.

I want to have a printer to support senior projects. Also working on supporting 3D printing needs in the local community.

A simple approach to making the Eleksmaker A3 Laser build have a better functioning X-Carriage! Of course this assumes you bought an Eleksmaker A3 or plan to.

Tower Printer H-Belt type printer Prototype

This CNC build is to help with some areas of my guitar builds - mainly inlays but some body work as well where appropriate. I expect it will be used for lots of other things once I get to know what it's capable of (sorry - what I'm capable of!).

Below are the details of my build and a good story for those who read till the end. Sorry for the grammar

Taller and wider MendelMax 1.5 spinoff

Realisation of my idea about a foldable collector for rainwater, which is light and easy to make. People around the world need water and can collect rain water with this collector. I made it for syria and all too.

All metal CoreXY 3D Printer Design with triple z, kinematic bed, and scalable corexy mechanism.

This is a C-Beam build, fairly heavy duty, and 750mm x 750mm. Should be a good, sturdy machine that's relatively easy to assemble.

A cartesian build with a build dimension of 200x200x750mm. I will be using a dual extruder, heated build plate, and a screw drive for the z axis.

Light weight portable Laser Engraver (6.5lbs - 12lbs)

This 3D Printer is made to provide the most accurate results with the least amount of investment. This Printer is being designed to allow the common user to own a very accurate piece of machinery.

A lower profiled machine. Built all out of aluminum. Removable control panel/PC unit. Option for vacuum table and cooling pump for a spindle.

The C-Beam Evolution is an evolving machine. The MkII is inspired by Kyo's C-Beam Spinx but currently uses my own design of plates made of 8mm acrylic (X-axis ends) and 6mm polycarbonate (Y axis ends). The plates were made on the MkI but I hope to be able to make 6mm aluminium plates on the MkII for the MkIII.

A horizontal-router CNC using openbuilds parts geared toward routing out mortise and tenon joinery; or any other end grain work on wood.

I need a large build plate without spending 10-20k for a "store" built printer.

This build is based on the Workbee 1010 CNC. It is not a kit build and is much the same as the original but with some significant changes made here and there as the build progresses.

The frame is made from all open builds parts, add the rubber feet and pads for the glass. The glass is clear 12" x 16" x 1/4" with a polished edge. A light basket slides on the countertop.

This "hobby OX" CNC is built for multiple purposes such as cutting and engraving various materials, laser etching and cutting, etc... Its a great platform for hobby enthusiasts like me where this machine can be used for so many different purposes effectively and efficiently!

This is a Dual X-axis platform.

C-Beam Machine for PCB milling

This is my first attempt at building my own 3d printer.

My version of the popular Lautr3k 3D printer. UNI Panther colors of Purple and Yellow on black V-slot rails. 300x300 bed.

Delta printer, Bed size 280 cm dimeter Print Height 300 cm not tested yet the speed

A practical rotating and stand-alone spool holder which fits any filament extrusion 3D-printer. Several base files provided which make it fit different extruded aluminium profiles.

Build Start to begin Feb 1st.

This is a rework of a previous build I did on here, a mostly printed cartesian CNC. Initially intended to just be an update to that, but so many things changed including the linear motion and every single part has been modified significantly that I felt as though it deserved a whole new build.

classic router with a ab table

After use of the i3 Prusa 200x200x180, the volume increases to 300x300x450 on the V-Slot and driven by a Megatronics V3

Hello all, wanted to share my custom build that I planed to do. My idea was to drill foam blocks to make molds for my projects. The CNC will be 1500-1500mm with a higher Z-Axis. So I redesigned the Gantry Plates that will be cut out at some other place. I hope you can share your opinion on my project.

The COTSPnP pick-and-place machine (PnP) is used to place surface-mount devices (SMDs) onto a printed circuit board and was designed and built exclusively from off-the-shelf (COTS) components, predominantly sourced from OpenBuilds and Actobotics. Its intended use is prototyping and not high rate, high volume production and is capable of precisely placing parts as small as 0402 capacitors and resistors but more importantly, can precisely place components with lead spacing as small a 0.4mm.

This 3d printer framework was designed for use with the ceraStruder clay 3D printing extruder. More info coming soon.

A fully aluminium printer made from off the shelf components, no printed parts.

Watercooled 3D printer

CNC Mini Mill build with some mods after following standard build on Youtube video.

I have re-purposed many of the parts from my Linear OX build. I'm using MGN 12 linear rails on all three axis, 5 start lead screws on the Z axis and I'm going to experiment with 5 start lead screw on the X axis. The frame plates are made from 1/8" laser cut mild steel, & open builds extrusion.

We are introducing the Cairo Mini 3d-printer! It’s a DIY fully Open-source Reproducible 20x20cm 3d-printer. The original goal of the Cairo Mini 3d-printer is to create a low-cost 3d-printer below 220$(3500 LE). That anyone can build with ease.

Very stout 2'x4' machine with a deep Z axis

wooden parts of the enclosure can be removed easily used the existing extraction of my glass bead burners

Berrybot inspired delta 3d printer with a few other tweaks and modifications.

Tough 3D Printer using OpenBuilds Parts!

Mini Additive Manufacturing Printer by Chris Scholl

My first printer! I went for a simple cartesian design, based on evilc66 one. It uses 1000 mm C-beam linear actuators. The build volume is 700x700x700 mm^3.

IIOT WiFi Plasma CNC.

Wanna quet an nice looking device done by my hands

XDrive 3d printer, high quality large build volume.

just wanted to share my build of a huge 3d printer. It stands just over 2 meters tall and has a total print area of around 850mm x 850mm.

My build is based on many different builds but pieced together into a unit specifically to suit my needs. The footprint, without motors, is around 500mm x 1000mm with a gantry height of around 250mm. I used a combination of C-Beam, for the linear transmission, and V-Slot for the base and gantry supports. Forged angle connectors were used for attachment and I utilized the C-Beam gantry cart kits with anti-backlash blocks for both Y axes, the X axis, and Z axis.

Cut Area: 825 x 1340. Max Cutting depth: 2 inches. Arduino based control with Nema 23 and Nema 17 drive. 8mm leadscrew and 2GT belt drive. 400W 48V quite cut spindle.

Lord willing I will be showing you how build a robust and easy to build 3D printer framework using V-Slot rails and rollers. It's a little bulky, but it has all spring tensioned rollers on all axes, and can be built entirely without custom machining on any parts. You will need digital calipers, a drill press, a carbide toothed miter saw for cutting aluminum extrusions, and lots of little screws!

A slightly more than one half cubic meter 3D Printer using V Rails, V Rollers, "C" Rail, mounting plates, and a bunch of 3D printed brackets to provide strength and stability to the frame. Rigidity was the goal and precision and accuracy the result. The software is a whole other topic, many weeks spent dialing that in to make the printer print.

A home-made CNC-machine with a 1.5 kW air cooled spindle motor suitable for milling materials such as wood, plastic and soft metals. The work table is 650 mm wide by 700 mm deep and the maximum movement is set to 560 mm for the x-axis, 480 mm for the y-axis and 105 mm for the z-axis.

Aluminum-framed enclosure for TAZ 6 3d Printer made with Makerlink.

Roberta Clementine's first daughter printer Alice Clementine!

Hell Yeah

The 3D printer will be able to print 2x2x2m components and not just in PLA or ABS. It's not just a DIY printer but I'm trying to apply engineering formulas to make it. I'm going to apply the state of art for 3D printing and scannering existing.

This is the largest printer I have found. It is also the cheapest. The reason is that it is run by hand, without computer or motors or electronics. Put an object on one side and move the 3d pen while tracing the object. Move the z dimension by turning the crank on the lab jack to move the printed copy down a notch. Be creative!

This Project is meant to teach introductory robotics and arduino styled micro-controllers to HS and MS students.

Build a Hot Wire CNC Foam Cutter with inexpensive 3d printer electronics.

Open source 3D printer with very powerful heated bed and light weight x axis design. Full source repository can be found here: https://github.com/a-drizzle/Printer1

Theoretical Working Area: 360x360x75mm Actual Working Area: 300x300x75mm Will Update Later

This is a 1500 x 1500 Ox build

My First major improvement was changing the controller to a Acorn board. I loved the way a dedicated userinterface was speeding up my workflow. Next project my Y Axis. On Aliexpress I ordered a couple of 16mm ballscrews and some lineair rail. Before I took my gantry off I quickly made some aluminium profiles to fit my carriages. Withouth any doubt these improvements where worth it

Leveling Platform / Stand 3D Printers

An USB Pendant for LinuxCNC / Mach3

I designed this 3D printer from scratch for my mechanical engineering capstone project. It's made for printing clay but should be able to print any paste material. The clay extruder system could be easily modified to work with almost any 3D printer. The printer is approximately the same size as an Ender 3.

Cartesian type 3d printer build

Building the OB Lead 1515 was straight forward. The on-line OpenBuilds assembly videos were extremely clear and easy to follow. Initial build of this machine is with OpenBuilds BlackBox which simplified getting the electronics to work the first time. OpenBuilds staff are friendly and helpful.

Large scale delta robot using c-beam as the core frame component.

Getting an accurate scan of a golf ball can be difficult with general-purpose 3D scanners. This purpose-built golf ball scanner uses a very accurate Keyence LK-081 laser displacement sensor with an Open Builds linear actuator for the vertical axis and a Sherline CNC rotary table for the turntable. Scan detail is determined by the sample step size and can be set arbitrarily based on desired scan time.

This 1500mm tall Delta is a work in progress. The triangle corners are water jetted from 1" 6061 Aluminum, and are welded to 1" square tubing. The 1500mm OpenBuilds 20x20 V-Slot extrusions are held into the corner brackets by two stainless steel set screws per bracket. This printer will need to be reinforced with wall brackets due to the combination of height/materials.

I built a motion control camera slider with the V-Slot® NEMA 17 Linear Actuator Bundle (Belt Driven)

This specific build page is a collection of screenshots sampling some of my initial SolidWorks design and pictures showing physical construction of the initial design. I will be creating individual build articles as I redesign, test, and implement new aspects of the printer.

I like combo machines, so I upgrade my 3D Printer with a Laser. It is a double head combination. The Laser is easy removable.

The idea is to make a simple effective ventilator, studying the concept of using a simple push process with and actuator.

I wanted to try a different way of operating the Z Axis so I setup a tower using 40x40. In the end it worked excellently and can easily print 60mm/s with 150mm/s travels. The coreXY is a very cool kinematic, and you can get some pretty great speed and accuracy. The main issue is the fact your Steps/mm are doubled, so the lower end motors don't like it at high speeds.

Just starting a miter saw stop system. Any suggestions appreciated.

This will be my first build ever! Looking forward to it , just gotta finish the new workshop first then I'm on it!

The process from my bought printer, to a custom home built machine