Proteus is the Greek God of change. Besides the numerous aspect of 3D printing that this could relate to this machine like the god can change. The Build allows for an interchanging head that will allow different functionality to be quickly and easily adapted. So you could print clay, silicon, plastic, cut with a laser cutter or even attach a rotary tool

Design of a multifunctional CNC machine.

I am building a simple home brewed printer. I have a background in industrial automation so I figured how hard could this be. The mechanical build was pretty smooth as was the electrical side. Now just getting plastic out the hotend is my stopping point.

This is a deltabot 3D printer build using CNC routed MDF and v-slot rails. Full description found in instructables.com.

Cartesian Printer, 200mm x 200mm x 380mm build area, enclosed, belt and pinion movement, heated bed, Raspberry Pi, Pi Cam, OctoPrint

Tower Printer H-Belt type printer Prototype

XDrive 3d printer, high quality large build volume.

The 3D printer will be able to print 2x2x2m components and not just in PLA or ABS. It's not just a DIY printer but I'm trying to apply engineering formulas to make it. I'm going to apply the state of art for 3D printing and scannering existing.

just wanted to share my build of a huge 3d printer. It stands just over 2 meters tall and has a total print area of around 850mm x 850mm.

I myself invented this concept printer form

Stabilus 3d Large Format Printer Kit

A Large format 3D printer

I've made a 3D printer

This 3D printer is an implementation of the Ultimaker 3D printer Using the Modular approach, many of the parts from the CubeSpawn 3 axis mill translate straight across into this design, so adding new concepts should go quicker

Rigid 3d printer with more than enough room for dual extruders. Easily expandable platform.

A practical rotating and stand-alone spool holder which fits any filament extrusion 3D-printer. Several base files provided which make it fit different extruded aluminium profiles.

The STEAM Crane 3d printer uses the new C-Beam linear rail. It is being developed for an after school / summer camp program for kids. All of the electronics are housed in the base and the wiring is routed down the channels of the c-beam. This is done to contain as much of the loose wiring as possible, hopefully keeping it safer for kids.

Someone donated a E3D Volcano to me (http://e3d-online.com/Volcano/V6-VOLCANO-POWER-PACK-175-UNIVERSAL-24V) and with a super hotend like that, it feels like a waste to stick it into a small 3D printer. So I decided I want a 320x220mm (XY) machine, 200mm Z is plenty for me

A simple 3D printed dust shoe for the cnc router. 2 parts held together with magnets for easy bit changes.

Open source 3D printer with very powerful heated bed and light weight x axis design. Full source repository can be found here: https://github.com/a-drizzle/Printer1

This printer will leverage scrap pieces around the shop to fulfill a single print's needs. It will use a combination of 80/20, OpenBuilds, and 3D printed parts.

Large scale delta robot using c-beam as the core frame component.

A cartesian build with a build dimension of 200x200x750mm. I will be using a dual extruder, heated build plate, and a screw drive for the z axis.

The original plan was to build a 3d printer with a 1200x1200 build platform with a 600mm build height. I was having issues getting ahold of a large enough borosilicate glass plate for the build so I decided to go for build height. I plan on using a smoothieboard for the controller. The build has currently slowed down. I was removing a broken drillbit from the linear rail mount, and it shattered and took out my eye. I am doing what I can when I can focus my eyes long enough for the build.

The QuorXZ doesn't magically appear. It's gestation takes time, careful attention, and requires many parts. However, when it is ready, a magical, mechanical instrument is born....(and when you finally say its name, it sounds a little bit like "corks").

The process from my bought printer, to a custom home built machine

Dirt cheap build.

Building a printer that can fit inside and operate at ~200 C oven temperatures

Prusa mini inspired 3d printer

OX MultiMachine

This build is very straight forward. The design is simple. There is a great support community for Delta 3D printers.

My version of the popular Lautr3k 3D printer. UNI Panther colors of Purple and Yellow on black V-slot rails. 300x300 bed.

Simple cartesian style CNC. Uses ACME screws for all 3 axes, 20x40 v-slots and should have 50cm x 50cm x 50cm work volume.

So in short this build is a work in progress; it aims to make a large 3d printer, medium size CNC mill and a small plasma cutter all in one CNC unit.

Mag arm deltabot with laser cut carriages and connectors.

I'm basically building a larger version of my crappy wanhao 3d printer. My work was recycling some aluminium extrusion and it broke my heart to see such nice pieces of aluminium engineering being sent to a furnace. Mega 3d printer was born!

My version a Cartesian style 3d printer, an attempt to eliminate frame vibration and movement and to use up materials left over from other projects.

We plan experiment on nylon 3 D printing;

Hello ! This is my very first OpenBuilds build. It's based on the Maximus 3D Printer, published by mytechno3d : good source of inspiration !

An easy Epic Win for novice engineers new to the RepRap project www.3distributed.com

My first construction after many years buys ready devices.

H-Bot mechanics 3D printer. Build volume - 300x300x300mm dimensions: 560x500x500mm

This 1500mm tall Delta is a work in progress. The triangle corners are water jetted from 1" 6061 Aluminum, and are welded to 1" square tubing. The 1500mm OpenBuilds 20x20 V-Slot extrusions are held into the corner brackets by two stainless steel set screws per bracket. This printer will need to be reinforced with wall brackets due to the combination of height/materials.

As a tinkerer and hobbyist I need a reliable quality printer on a budget... Meaning I'm not looking to buy a: Prusa, Zortrax or LulzBot because of the added cost their marketing adds. I can definitely build a machine of hopefully equal quality at a lower cost that is not impacted by the marked-up priced from a large reputable manufacturer. I will need to dedicate time and more time for design shakedowns to ensure I produce a quality machine. Bare with me on this build... Thanks!

This is a remix of Marshal Peck's Voxel OX, with some design tweaks inspired by Makerparts and jjcolletta. It has a build area of 300mm X 300mm X 480mm, but is easily configured for just about any build area up to 500mm X 500mm X 750mm. I have used some laser cut acrylic plates and a couple of 3D printed parts in its construction, however it can be assembled using nothing but OpenBuilds parts with the exception of the heated bed and the Y axis carrier for the heated bed.

This build includes the design of a large FDM 3D printer. This machine has a 796mm by 796mm by 900mm (LxWxH) build volume. Motion is controlled by servo motors and the printer runs on python-based marlin firmware.

Massive Delta printer with a print area of 25 Inches (634mm).

Functional real-world 3D printer build with RM2-2RS bearings in routed V grooves on phenolic resin rails (lab countertop scraps) and NSK 25mm linear rails/trucks.

All metal CoreXY 3D Printer Design with triple z, kinematic bed, and scalable corexy mechanism.

Building the OB Lead 1515 was straight forward. The on-line OpenBuilds assembly videos were extremely clear and easy to follow. Initial build of this machine is with OpenBuilds BlackBox which simplified getting the electronics to work the first time. OpenBuilds staff are friendly and helpful.

I wanted to make my own Voron, so I made my own Voron,

We are introducing the Cairo30 3d-printer! It’s our new premium creature with no compromises! The Cairo30 3d-printer is the culmination of our accumulated years of experience designing and producing open-source CNC machines kits.

Low cost cnc linear drive for making any xyz cnc structure

Hello. I build this 600 by 600 printer and hope to share it. I plan to sell custom builds with my website in the middle of this yeahr while making all parts accesibble online for replacements and own builds. My plan was to build a better and more accessible big volume 3d-printer as cheap as possible. I got some inspiration of the ender creality 3, the crazy-Print xyz 300 and the veho 600 tronxy which was simply not relaible and satisfying overal.

All's good for assembly, testing coming up soon

Converting a ShapeOKO into a 3D printer.

Multi-tool 3D printer, laser cutter, and CNC mill.

This is a Dual X-axis platform.

It is a first draw of my future Printer/CNC cutter.PCB mill Still need to work more on it

This is a work in progress 3D printer Dimensions are 230x230x340mm height. Print dimensions are: 135x135x160mm. Prototype has a bowden extruder with a J-head hotend. Assembly instructions: http://reprapstyle.blogspot.pt

You are about to read the evolution of my 3d Printer build.

CoreXZ implementation on 3d printer using Openbuild and RobotDigg parts.

This is the largest printer I have found. It is also the cheapest. The reason is that it is run by hand, without computer or motors or electronics. Put an object on one side and move the 3d pen while tracing the object. Move the z dimension by turning the crank on the lab jack to move the printed copy down a notch. Be creative!

A Laut3k derivative that goes for volume and large number of print materials at the same time. Using OpenBuild linear motion systems to get away from belt drives.

Building upon the great work done by Marshall Peck and others. I have started a new build.

This is an inexpensive build, large volume 2225 cubic inch, CORE XY 3D printer providing decent speed with precise and repeatable precision with expandable features.

Hi! This build is, or at least should be, a multipurpose box (mBOX). Due to limited space I want to build something that can serve multiple purposes such as 3d printing, 3d scan, plexiglass cutting and hopefully some milling too (both wood and metal). Switching between modes should involve switching heads and worksurface (change heatbed with a wood platform and viceversa). (for the scan part I'm thinking of integrating this opensource project into the frame: http://www.freelss.org/ )

Building a Delta-6 variant, using recycled parts from a WolfStock Delta printer.

Please, look over my build and make any recommendations you can think of! I haven't figured out how long my arms need to be yet. Nor have I done any shopping around to find better prices...

I've owned some pretty unreliable printers, and I'll leave it at that... This design comes from the need to have a 3D printer that is reliable, period. I didn't have the money for a several thousand dollar 3d printer with an equivalent build area so that was out of the question. Plus as a fledgling Engineer, I really wanted to blood myself on a project. And that's how Old Faithful came to be. A simple, reliable, rigid, durable machine. Made by me :) Also, it'll be tough enough for light CNC.

After use of the i3 Prusa 200x200x180, the volume increases to 300x300x450 on the V-Slot and driven by a Megatronics V3

3D Printer based upon 3d printed parts and open builds componets

It all started after my prusa i3 build inspired me to experiment with resin 3D printers because I want to learn if they are worth it and if I can design my own printer.

First CoreXY. Simple Square build, hopes for faster movements.

This example build shows how easy it is to make a linear actuator using a few OpenBuilds Parts.

A 200mm x 300mm x 200mm workhorse that never needs leveling due to Posi-Drive Leveling design.

Building a Phlat based CNC for MDF processing. Capacity of 48" x unlimited length.

As a 3rd year mechatronic engineer with a plan to print my 4th year thesis project and with no elegant backup plan, I ran into a problem, I'm gonna need a bigger printer. Loving the DeltaPrintr kickstarter, but needing it before the end of next year I have resolved to make my own.

Berrybot inspired delta 3d printer with a few other tweaks and modifications.

This is my 1st submission to openbuilds.com and my 1st venture into building a 3D Printer. The Phoenix 3d Printer is a kit from Ez3D, a company based out of Colorado, started and backed by successful Kick-starter and IndieGogo campaigns. The Phoenix 3d Printer kit is currently backlogged 10 to 12 weeks which means quite a wait. I will be chronicling my experience with this kit as I get it done.

I am hoping to post a detailed build of my printer it is a large format using the RepRap RAMPS 1.4 & Mega 2560 & DRV8825 Driver + optical end stop +LCD 12864 -C 0.4mm Far-end Distal Dual-Head Nozzle Extruder Double Nozzle

My first custom build, using vslot rails for Z and Y and 8mm rails for X. Currently printing parts for this using my Prusa I3. The build volume will be roughly 300mm^3, X and Y are belt driven with 8mm acme lead screws for Z. Will be uploading more info shortly as i continue to build the printer.

Leveling Platform / Stand 3D Printers

This 3D Printer is made to provide the most accurate results with the least amount of investment. This Printer is being designed to allow the common user to own a very accurate piece of machinery.

I need a large build plate without spending 10-20k for a "store" built printer.

This is a Delta build using 1610 ballscrews from China

This build will hopefully be 18x18x24 build space using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin firmware. Using NEMA 17 motors and belts to drive the X and Y axis, lead screws for the Z axis. The build plate will be heated with a delrin Y carriage for the glass and heatbed. Z axis motors will be top mounted. Possibly and ATX power supply.

This is a big 609 x 609 x 914 3d pritner with exchangable hot ends and extruders.

Currently completely imaginary

This is my own modified version of the D-Bot printer. I wanted to spec this printer to be able to print exotic materials at high accuracy with little to no compromises and maximum reliability.

HE3D K200 kit build

I have parts that are apparently not suited to a cnc router or a 3d printer. I am still trying to figure out what to make out of what I have,

A DIY 3D printer. At beginning made from aluminium profiles, aluminium sheet and wood :)

Toying around a concept. Inputs are welcome on whether to use lead screw or belt drive. My lead screw will be single start 500 mm lenght, 2 mm pitch and 2 mm lead. Nema 17 motors will be used. All veterans, suggestions please.

Just now in the planning phase of my build. Waiting for some parts to come in to see what I am going to build off of. Print area going to be close to 300x300x350. Trying to decide if I want it enclosed. I do want to print ABS... so probably so.

Make a vinyl burrito ENCLOSURE for your TEVO LITTLE MONSTER for < $30 (<$20 if you don't have your vinyl shipped!)

Cheap, experimental Modification to Tevo Little Monster's bowden system for the extruder

Super tall 3D printer. All lead screw design.

This is the build of a cartesian 3d printer made of an old Anet and Geeeteck, some 2020 alu profil and linear rail. Powered by a Rumba with a Nextion screen. It should be modular and accept dual Extrusion and laser engraving.