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LEAD Lathe

Discussion in 'CNC Lathes' started by Giarc, Jun 14, 2020.

  1. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    Giarc published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
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  2. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Master
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    Following this with interest as it's something I would very much like to do.
    (The Ebay link for the rotary axis has died though @Giarc).
    I know you wanted to use only Openbuilds parts, but I think a sheet metal brace behind the uprights would be a bit more rigid.
    Alex.
     
  3. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Nice design. Two items you might look into. The drive rail on the X-axis should be the lower rail. This creates less eccentricity on the system and thus less flexure when you're milling lengthwise. The other would be lengthwise adjustability of the tail stock. Jon Norris had a pretty good approach in his design but it won't quite give you the depth you seek. You might consider using a 20x40 rail centered on the bottom rail and an inverted C-Beam as the lower block on the tail stock stack to allow for a self aligning slide.
     
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  4. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Very cool looking design @Giarc following this one!
     
  5. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    Here are the two Lathes that I am stealing ideas from. Rotary CNC and C Beam Rotary I believe Gwandad's is done, but he just did not mark it as such. I had also considered doing like Gwandad did in his and use a 40*3*1000 mm piece of aluminum bar stock as a guide for the tailstock, but living in the U.S. may make that difficult since most places around me that sell aluminum only have 1 1/2" inch (38.1mm).

    I had considered using aluminum plates on the outside edges of my stack of smaller 2080s that would hold them all together and over lap the 1000mm long 2080 "guide". It would get locked in place with the t-slot bolts.

    Alex, this is the ebay seller that I purchased from. They have an Amazon store. I wanted a 4 Jaw when I first ordered, but it was not available. Now it is. :rolleyes: No big deal. I have a solution for round stock. I linked both below. I have the 3 jaw. The same seller (RATTM) has an Ebay store which has lower prices.
    https://www.amazon.com/K11-100mm-Engraving-Rotational-Tailstock-Reducing/dp/B07B2RTBGZ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=cnc+router+4th+axis+100mm+3+jaw+chuck&tailstock&qid=1592164546&s=industrial&sr=1-3

    https://www.amazon.com/K12-100mm-Milling-Rotational-Tailstock-Reducing/dp/B07B2RX1BK/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=cnc+router+4th+axis+100mm+3+jaw+chuck&tailstock&qid=1592164605&s=industrial&sr=1-2

    Also, I may switch to an aluminum plate as a brace because I have a lot of it due to buying things without thinking through a design all the way. :rolleyes: For the home builder without a CNC, it would be as simple as buying a piece of dimensional aluminum and putting a .pdf template I will provide over the top as a hole drilling guide. Hey, if I can hand build an entire CNC router that way, it should be simple to drill two lines of holes at 90 degrees. :)

    I already have a base cabinet for it. My dad had an oak china cabinet base that has sat unfinished for 30 years in storage. It is a shame to use it for a shop cabinet, but I have no other use for it and it has a lot of drawers for storage.
     
  6. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    I will make the switch in the design. Thanks.
     
  7. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    I forgot to mention, I plan to add a laser diode to this as well, since I have one from an Acro build which got switched over to modifying a CO2 laser.
     
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  8. JustinTime

    JustinTime Journeyman
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    Craig, could you not use two 40mm shims (the 2 bottom ones) and one 80mm on the tail stock instead of the three 80mm and than you'll have the option of bolting them to the 80mm frame part?
     
  9. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    I am not quite sure I understand what you mean.

    Last night, I realized that this whole thing could be done with two High Z mods, a set of Cbeam end plates and a few pieces of extrusion and a few other items. The parts list should be simple to compile when I get to it.
     
  10. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    I don't think the High-Z mod kit includes any of the drive parts so you'll still be a fair distance out with the two High-Z kits. I would probably break it down into a couple actuator kits ([email protected], [email protected]) and 4 additional gantry kits, adding in a bag of long screws and a bag of 9mm spacers to turn the gantry carts into the front/back design. Beyond that, add in 1m of C-beam, a stack of regular V-slot and a whole lot of connectors to round out the design.
     
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  11. JustinTime

    JustinTime Journeyman
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    Attached Files:

  12. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    August 8:
    I finally got more time to work on this in the evenings this week. The first thing I did was assemble two sets of extra wide Cbeam Gantry plates as per the OpenBuilds LEAD video instructions and using the OpenBuilds components listed in the video. Upon doing this I realized that since I want 8 wheels guiding my Z axis up and down for extra rigidity (I hope) I would need a plate to tie these two plates together. I came up with a solution that turned out to be overly complicated, so a solution to my solution was found :thumbsup:. Basically I used my CNC router to mill an 8 holed plate that would incorporate the 4 axle screws and existing threaded holes on the gantry plates. This goes against my goal of no custom plates, but this could easily be cut and drilled by hand out of aluminum or plywood, or 3D printed. The other option is to mount it just like the High Z mod for the LEAD where the Cbeam holds the plates together with a moving Gantry cart carrying the spindle. I may choose to ultimately go that route but for now I will try this method first. If someone else chooses to do this build, I can make the plates I came up with for them or just provide the file and they can cut it themselves.
    DSC_0028.JPG

    Then I realized I would need longer axle screws and would have to disassemble everything. Therefore, I just drilled out the two holes where the axles could poke through with a step bit. I gave it a nice coat of Navy Blue to see if I like the color. I do, but I think sticking with all black would look better.
    DSC_0030.JPG

    Prior to tightening up the screws holding this on the gantry plates, I put both gantry carts on the Cbeams for the X axis and inserted the 500mm z axis Cbeam and tightened all the eccentrics on the wheels. Then I squared it all up and tightened the joiner plate.

    DSC_0039.JPG
    DSC_0040.JPG
     
    #12 Giarc, Aug 8, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2020
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  13. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    August 9:
    A little further progress. I realized I forgot to order the 90 Degree Joining Plate so I made my own slightly narrower plates because I had a narrower scrap piece of 6.5 mm aluminum. I like the way they look, and it got rid of aluminum that I otherwise had no use for at the moment. But the 90 degree joining plates would absolutely work for this, after all they are used in the LEAD build.

    DSC_0042.JPG
    I then mounted the uprights to the two C-Beam® Linear Rails, put on the C-Beam® End Mount using four 25mm Low Profile Screws per end mount. I also installed the 8mm Metric Acme Lead Screw, shaft collars, 8mm washer, and 8mm bearing as per the LEAD instructional video. Ignore the Covid-19 hoarding of Crunchberries and Froot Loops by my 14 year old in the background of the picture. Priorities! Also, the lathe build is resting on the rear of my existing CNC which is why there are other plates and extrusions on the bottom of the photo.
    upload_2020-8-10_20-23-44.png
    However, my C-Beams are mounted on the front of the uprights rather than the rear in the other builds. This lead to some concerns with the lock collar set screw. When originally put on and tightened down (not all the way) it would hit the upright 500 mm 2080 V slot when the lead screw rotated.
    DSC_0045a.JPG
    After debating how I would solve it, I just tightened them down as hard as I safely could with an electric screwdriver and the problem solved itself. I also added additional corner brackets using 8mm low profile screws and Drop In Tee Nuts where I couldn't use the Tee Nuts - M5 (10 Pack).

    I had purchased this spindle mount from ebay (I wish OB sold a 65 mm mount ;) ):
    DSC_0060.JPG

    Unfortunately for me, I did not see the four large M6 socket cap screws protruding 6 mm out the back, or it would have been an easy mount to the z axis C-beam. Back to Fusion 360 for a custom plate from 6.5mm aluminum.
    upload_2020-8-10_20-39-17.png
    I milled it real quick, but had an oopsie! Remember to make sure that end mill is tightened down real well in the collet :banghead:.
    DSC_0058.JPG
    Ah well. It is fully functional, but upside down in the picture which is why the holes do not line up on the bottom.:) I do need to clean up these newly milled plates, the scrap piece I cut them out of was really dirty, but cheap since it was scrap.
    DSC_0064.JPG
    Now it is time to start assembling the Blackbox (Ghost Version).
     
    #13 Giarc, Aug 10, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2020
  14. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    Not much done this weekend, but I finally got the Black Box I received well over a year ago together! I am a bit behind schedule I guess. :)
    IMG_20200823_193035429_2.jpg
     

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