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Workbee 1015

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by arcrunner, Nov 9, 2018.

  1. arcrunner

    arcrunner Well-Known
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    arcrunner published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
  2. arcrunner

    arcrunner Well-Known
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    Serge E. likes this.
  3. caseyjaybenson

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    Where did you find your 50inch lead screw?
    Have you had any problems with it being that wide?
     
  4. arcrunner

    arcrunner Well-Known
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    I got the original kit from AliExpress, and since it's from China, they'll cut you what ever length you what, haha. They won't ship it unless you buy at least 1 c beam of the same length because the leadscrew is almost sure to get damaged by itself.

    There is some whip if you're working at the far end so of the axis, but it runs fine at this time. Belt configuration would be fine, and maybe a little faster too.


    Originally, I had a 1510, and I purchased additional extrusion to make it 1500x1500. However, that meant I only had 2 1500mm leadscrews, so I would have to change the x axis to belt drive. I did, and ran it that way with double belt for a week or so. Then I cut it down to it's current configuration so I could do all leadscrew setup.

    I may just convert this to ballscrews next month, so I'll end up either cutting new plates for that.
     
  5. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    I have 1500 mm long Y axis on my build. I sourced 1/2 inch 5 start lead screws that move 1/2 inch per rotation from McMaster Carr. Of course, then you need new bearings and couplers. I have no whip that I notice. I did have to source different anti-backlash nuts (I made my own). They fit in the cbeam channel, but I ultimately did not use cbeam due to back-order issues at the time.
     
  6. arcrunner

    arcrunner Well-Known
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    At 1/2" or approximately 12mm, sounds like they would be pretty solid, I was considering going to 12mm ballscrews since I'm ordering a bunch of them for a different project, and could get them in the same order, but the McMaster Carr one looks good too, and I guess you don't need to oil them as much either!
     
  7. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    I have never oiled them. I use delrin anti-backlash nuts and have not noticed an issue.
     
  8. caseyjaybenson

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    Excuse my newbie questions, Should I order the KIT from OB and then the extra parts from McMaster Carr to make things simple? If so can someone share the parts list I should order? I appreciate your time greatly. Thank you gentlemen.
     
  9. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    I would first figure out what other parts you would need to change from belts to screws. I went with metric bearings because they were easier and cheaper to source, but that meant I had to have my 12.7 mm McMaster Carr lead screws turned down to 12 mm. Luckily for me, I had a friend that had a lathe and said he could do it. The best way to do this is to download the model in Sketchup (or whatever CAD software you prefer) and add the parts and modifications. I would think that it would be a simple modification to get new shaft couplers, bearings, and possibly enlarge the holes for the rods on the end plates. Search Amazon or McMaster Carr for pillow block bearings If you attach them on the outside of your plates like I did, you can apply a little tension on the screw which will aid in reducing whip. I used some similar to this. You must also remember that your holes may affect you plate mounting so they wold most likely have to have counter bored holes with the bearings attached first then the plates attached. That way the screw heads would be flush with the surface and not interfere with the plates attaching to the Cbeam.

    The hard part is making the anti-backlash nuts to fit into the channel because you need to make (or purchase a tap). To make my nuts, I measured the distance from the inside edge of the gantry plate to get a feel for the maximum thickness the nut could be and I was able to make one fit. However, I lost those files due to a hard drive crash. I started my design by down loading and modifying the Openbuilds 8mm anti-backlash nut. This is a great exercise (if you are a beginner) in using CAD software. If all you want to do is carve 2.5 D objects (signs etc...) then I would just buy the kit as is and not worry about the screws. If you go the Sketchup route, you can print 1:1 templates you can affix to the plates which can be accurately used to drill your holes. I built my entire machine by hand cutting and drilling all my aluminum plates this way. I linked that build in my previous post.

    Also, I would buy the kit. It would be so much easier than trying to buy all the components individually. Plus if for some reason the screws do not work out, you still can use the belts. Another easier option may be to do something similar to this: Project - Ox Upgrade Kit
     
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  10. arcrunner

    arcrunner Well-Known
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    Regarding the nut for the 5 start acme, what do you think of the anti backlash nut that's already out there? Similar to the one CNC router parts sells? Just curious as to the main difference other than the construction of course.
     
  11. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    I would assume it works fine. However, according to their drawings, it is 57.15 x 24 mm so it will not fit in the cbeam channel. There are also these if you choose an alternative mounting method. dumpsterCNC - anti-backlash solutions for home and industrial linear motion
     
  12. arcrunner

    arcrunner Well-Known
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    Used the 1015 cut these rings out of wood and resin blocks I made, then chucked them onto a corded drill to sand and shape, finished with a few coats of CA. For the full wood ring, the end grain wasn't so appealing so I use my plane to cut a shaving to wrap around the outside, hopefully that gives it a little strength too.
     

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  13. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    If you have the time it would be greatly appreciated if you could post a writeup on these in the Projects section of the forum. I think a lot of members could draw inspiration from this.
     
    arcrunner likes this.
  14. arcrunner

    arcrunner Well-Known
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    Sure! I'm going to do another batch over the next few days so I'll try to document it this time!

    Made a few test items out of spare ply before I move do them in some hardwood for a local convention coming up currently cutting these out of Birch ply at 35mm/s, will see how much I can push it in some hardwood!
     

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  15. arcrunner

    arcrunner Well-Known
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    Made a cupcake/donut tiered stand, 5mm cedar ply, used a 1/8" 2 flute carbide endmill at 30mm/s, 2.5mm DOC so I could do it in 2 passes.

    IMG-20181127-WA0000.jpg
    Got my 1/16" endmill bits in yesterday, doing some test cuts today!
     
    GrayUK likes this.

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