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1510 Workbee Modified

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Jacob Lotter, Dec 2, 2018.

  1. Jacob Lotter

    Jacob Lotter Journeyman
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    Jacob Lotter published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
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  2. sharmstr

    sharmstr Veteran
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    Awesome! I partially disassembled my 1510 yesterday to deal with the wheels. During that 2 hour time, I told myself I needed to figure out a better solution. This looks like its it! Do you have the cad files? I have a Tormach so machining everything isnt an issue.

    Also, am I correct in thinking that you added the linear rails to the top and bottom of the X gantry, but only to the tops of the Ys?
     
    #2 sharmstr, Dec 2, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2018
  3. Jacob Lotter

    Jacob Lotter Journeyman
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    I actually did this on pen and paper but I can draw something up in a jiffy.

    and Yes only to the top of the y's as I did not see a big point in doing so, as it sees little vertical torque unlike the x axis. Each side has 2 blocks which are spaced on each side of the gantry plate, which isn't seen easily.
     
  4. sharmstr

    sharmstr Veteran
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    Great!

    I'm also thinking that if I'm going to do this, I might look into ditching the belts. But it seems like they are working out for you okay.
     
  5. Jacob Lotter

    Jacob Lotter Journeyman
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    I will be ditching the belts shortly!! as they are almost as annoying. My plan was to use a normal 10mm or 12mm threaded rod. and make out a low profile nut similar to the ones on the screw machines. Slot one side to take out the backlash and then go nuts. Screw wears down? take out more lash. Screw REALLY wears down? Just buy a new peice of threaded rod. They are pretty cheap anyways. I'll post that when I get it underway in the next coming weeks.
     
  6. sharmstr

    sharmstr Veteran
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    That's great news. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. Let me know if I can help with anything, including the machining.
     
  7. sharmstr

    sharmstr Veteran
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    Hey Jacob,

    Why are your through holes and counter bores so big in your drawings?
     
  8. Jacob Lotter

    Jacob Lotter Journeyman
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    so big? I made them to side to the stainless socket cap screws (which were a little bigger) that I had with just a bit of slop in case of misalignment. I primarily made this with all metric holes/taps hence why the dimensions seem so odd.
     
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  9. sharmstr

    sharmstr Veteran
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    Got it. The M4 bolts I got were a bit undersize, so going with .200" holes as specified meant over .045" of slop. I ended up drilling .171875 (11/64") holes which worked well. Also had to cut the .625" side down to .600" but probably wouldn't have had to if I stuck with your dimensions :)
     
  10. Jacob Lotter

    Jacob Lotter Journeyman
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    hope it works out for you!!! like to see it when you're finished!
     
  11. ken_in_ft_myers

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    Have you pick the lead screw diameter yet? If so what size and where are you getting them.I have studied the issue and 12mm looks like they can handle the rpm's I have a 1500mm workbee with 8mm and they whip to much. Will convert to your design. Great work!
     
  12. DA_Spec

    DA_Spec Well-Known
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    Nice build ! Does the screw whip ? What speed can you achieve ?
     
  13. Jacob Lotter

    Jacob Lotter Journeyman
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    I am currently using 1/2 inch rod and they do whip slightly. Once i get my Control system parts here (ESS, 425oz/in motors, digital steppers) and i can build and install it, I will run some numbers with a dial indicator to see consistency across the machine! Thanks for looking at my build!
     
  14. Jacob Lotter

    Jacob Lotter Journeyman
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    The Screw does whip slightly. But not enough to cause concern.. i think hahaha will see in the future! and as speed goes, i will be getting my controls system parts this weekend and will start building it. Might be able to install it and have it running by the new year! Will follow up on everything when completed.
     
  15. matt_o_70

    matt_o_70 Journeyman
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    HI Jacob,
    I am curious to know what size / PN linear guides you used for the Z axis - are you happy with the size / Would you recommend them?
     
  16. Jacob Lotter

    Jacob Lotter Journeyman
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    I have the parts/links i used in the parts list tab. I think the size is perfect for the application and would definitely recommend it! I was never a fan of the wheels.
     
  17. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Master
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    Wow great to see our WorkBee design evolve and adapted! Great work :thumbsup:
     
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  18. Metalguru

    Metalguru Master
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    Nice upgrade. You could just use some 1/4" aluminum angle bolted onto the gantry plates to attach the linear guide blocks. Much simpler, almost as strong, and no machining other than drilling the holes.

    MG
     
  19. Jacob Lotter

    Jacob Lotter Journeyman
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    I had thought of that but wouldn't have worked with the way I wanted to do the x axis gantry where the z axis plates are mounted to the bearing block. And since I machined those blocks out of 1 single peice and cut them to length, it saved time to use them for the Y axis as well.
     
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