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WorkBee CNC Machine

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Ryan Lock, Sep 21, 2017.

  1. Colin Mccourt

    Colin Mccourt Journeyman
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    Good to know your about @Alex Chambers...I may take you up on that offer lol
     
  2. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    Hahahaha!

    I use a small arbor press for building wheels. Saves your thumbs!

    MG
     
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  3. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Colin, on the next machine put the bearing on the table and push the wheel down over it with the heel of your hand. Way easier and you don't wind up with bearing thumb...
     
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  4. Colin Mccourt

    Colin Mccourt Journeyman
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    Quite guys :D, I finished up getting one bearing practically seated, laid on its back, inserting the shim and the second bearing. Pushing these all together with the bottom of a soft handled screwdriver...worked much better lol

    wheel assembly.jpg
     
  5. Colin Mccourt

    Colin Mccourt Journeyman
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    @Rick 2.0 ...you so funny :rolleyes:
     
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  6. stargeezer

    stargeezer Journeyman
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    Hi gang, after years of running Mach 3 on all my CNC machines I ordered a XPro v4 to install on my Workbee. I expected it to work and even equal Mach 3 for all basic operations - what a surprise! From the time I put a empty controller box on my bench to hooking the finished electronics build up to the Bee was less than ten hours. From the time it was installed and I was running the first part was a quick hour!!!!

    Now I,be got to learn my way around GRBL - that,s going to take awhile, but nothing like Mach 3.

    That XPro is a awesome board!!!
     
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  7. Spark Concepts

    Spark Concepts Well-Known
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    Thanks Stargeezer :). Let us know if you need anything
     
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  8. pauna

    pauna New
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    Hello. Could you tell me how did you get axis 9mm belt adjustment?
     
  9. Hector Beltran

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    I just finished my table-enclosure and I have started my Workbee after a couple of months. I have run a few jobs in the past and have always noticed the X axis very noisy compared to the Z and Y. Jogging the machine is fine. However, while doing more intricate work like carving jobs the X axis appears to vibrate from all the micro movements from the stepper motors. It’s annoying to say the least; granted the router drowns the noise, but it does bother me as something appears to be wrong. I tightened the anti-backlash blocks, the washers on the acme screw, and everything I can think of. I believe the noise is coming from the acme-screw vibrating on the bearing and the gantry plates are amplifying the rattling noise. Has anyone experience this problem? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
     

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  10. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Master
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    When you fitted the X axis leadscrew did you pre-load it (loosen screws holding X axis C beam to Y gantry plate at one end, fix lock collar, then re-tighten screws)?
    Can you feel any play in the leadscrew? - sometimes this is easier to detect if you undo the motor coupler.
    Alex.
     
  11. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Nice cabinet. :thumbsup:
     
  12. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    • What is your Z axis motor microstep setting? If it is less than 1/8, it may just be cogging of the motor.
    • What type of motor drivers are you using? Do they have Decay Mode settings? If so, try a different setting. This makes a big difference in motor noise.
    • Steppers tend to vibrate when they (and the mechanical system they are connected to ) hit a resonance point. Does the noise get louder or softer at certain plunge speeds? It may just be a matter of using a different plunge speed
    • Check to see if there are loose components on the Z axis, screws, unconnected tee nuts, etc will vibrate loudly under certain conditions
    • Stepper motors while running a program will "sing" different notes as they move. All 3 of them can crate a cacophony, or a symphony, depending on your ear.
    MG
     
  13. Hector Beltran

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    Thank you guys. I have managed to eliminate all but one tiny rattle which I know where it’s coming from. This last one requires major disassembly. It is non-critical, so I’ll live with it for now.
    The noises were coming from the anti-backlash blocks. I recall following the directions on the YouTube video, but I guess I didn’t do it right. Nevertheless, what I did different this time was that with the acme screw loose from the coupler, collar and both blocks loose, I added a bit of lateral compression on the acme screw; at the same time I tightened the block further out to where I added the compression. I proceeded to tighten the collar. I rotated the acme screw in the opposite direction to add a bit of tension and proceeded to tighten the other block. Finally I tightened the collar to stepper motor. It is working great now with no major rattles.
    The only minor rattle I have is coming from one of the spacers in the X-Z gantry assembly; unfortunately the bolt heads are not visible due to the back-to-back assembly plates. I am gonna run a few jobs, and in the future when I do some maintenance I’ll take it apart and take care of that issue.

    Thanks again guys.
     
  14. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    Not sure why the blocks would make noise. Never seen that. I usually just tighten the block on one end, loosen the other. Then, using two fingers I squeeze the loose block as tight as I can towards other block until I get the screws tight. It's easier to do on the bench, because you don't have to fight gravity with the weight of the Z axis.

    Did you see my mod to the Z axis mount in the build

    Some Improvements on the Workbee 1000x1000

    Third photo down shows how I modified the Z axis mounting so it comes off in under a minute. Way better than the Ooznest design with 8 inaccessible screws.

    Duct tape will stop the rattling spacer temporarily...

    MG
     
  15. Christian James

    Christian James Well-Known
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    I saw that mod some time ago and incorporated it into my build - great idea MG!
     
  16. Hector Beltran

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    Cool mod on the X-Z plates. I’ll give it a shot next time I tear down the axes.
    I uploaded a clip where you can hear the blocks causing the acme screws to vibrate.
     

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  17. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    Hmm, sounds pretty normal to me.

    One thing, use a dry film lubricant on the lead screws and wheels/track. I like WD40 Specialist Dry lube. It leaves a dry teflon film on the parts and lubricates them very well without attracting dust and crap. Works VERY well. Spray it on a small 3/4" or 1" paint brush, and use the brush to apply to the wheels, tracks and screws. Won't hurt the polycarbonate wheels like regular WD40.

    71Fq4p5kCTL._SL1500_.jpg

    MG
     
  18. ahojekk

    ahojekk New
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    Hey everyone, first post on the forums, so firstly great design of the workbee, really appreciate the work put into the design.

    I'm having some spare openbuild parts, and willing to build the 1000x1000 screw driven version of Workbee. Most probably I'll buy the missing parts at oozenest as I'm located in Europ, and they seem to have decent prices.
    Still to utilize the some of the parts I have, I couldnt find a part list for the 1000x1000 version, could anyone help and post the sizes of the extrusions for the 1000x1000 version, do the 1000mm extrusions suffice for this version or do I need to abandon my idea and start thinking about the 750x750 version as I have a few 1000mm extrusions.

    Second question is somewhat similar to the first, I have the 8mm Acme lead screws in 1040mm size, will it suffice for the 1000x1000 version, or again its too small.

    And a third question, when I did browse through this topic I found a post not recommending to use the CNC xPro V3 Controller, now seeing there's a V4 version on the market, is the v4 worth looking into or should I look for another solution for the controller.

    Thanks in advice !
     
  19. sharmstr

    sharmstr Master
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    If it were me, I'd go with either the Blackbox or the Duet. Both are available at Ooznest. I've never used the Duet, but that's what Ooznest is now using on their workbee.

    Not sure if Ooznest has a parts list with sizes, but the Openbuilds version does: OpenBuilds WorkBee 1010

    Again, if it were me, I'd contact Ooznest directly.
     
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  20. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Master
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  21. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Master
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    Re controller, Ooznest do a very wide range of controllers, including (as @sharmstr said) the blackbox and duet. They also do the Xpro V4. From my own experience of the Duet and what I have read on here about other controllers these are the 3 I would consider. As far as the Duet is concerned I suggest searching the forum for "duet" - you will get a whole range of posts giving both positive and negative views about it. Set up with the Ooznest firmware and guides in their learning portal is fairly straightforward and settings for things such as standard nema 23's is done for you. I only know the blackbox from reading this forum, but it is intended to make installation and setup really easy - again search for messages on here to get other peoples views.
    If you do go with the Duet I'm happy to deal with any queries down the road - you know where to find me.
    Alex.
     
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  22. sharmstr

    sharmstr Master
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    One thing to note as well is that the Blackbox has better drivers than the xpro (not sure about the duet). So if you want to upgrade to high torque motors in the future, I wouldnt consider buying the xpro.
     
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  23. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Master
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    The blackbox drivers are "better" (can handle more current) than the Duet as well. The built in drivers on the Duet can only handle 2.4A, but you can add external drivers if you need to - you can also add extra axes. Blackbox - really straightforward set up for 3 axis machine. Duet - setup not difficult, nice web interface comes with it, lots of extra features (if you need them).
    I like many of the features that come with the Duet on my workbee - if I build another machine (thinking about it) I will probably use the blackbox. (I realise this won't help you to choose) :D:D
    Alex.
     
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  24. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    What's wrong with a simple Arduino and some individual stepper drivers? Way more customizable, way cheaper, and way simpler to fix.

    MG
     
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  25. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Master
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    PS - although the stepper drivers on the duet can only handle 2.4A there is no shortage of torque on my leadscrew workbee. I once accidentally collided with a G cramp I'd left attached to the 18 mm thick spoil board - the spoil board was ripped apart.
    Alex
     
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  26. ahojekk

    ahojekk New
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    Thank you everyone for all the responses, a lot of usefull stuff. Something I couldnt find in the ooznest assembly manual is, would the 1040mm lead screws suffice for the 1000mm extrusions? Wondering if those 40mm be enough.

    Hmm this also is an option espescially that I have some spare Arduino, so even more savings possible. Any stepper drivers you would recommend?
     
  27. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Master
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    Hi @ahojekk, without dismantling it to get precise measurements it looks as though the X and Y leadscrews on my 1010 workbee are 1040mm.
    Alex. :thumbsup:
     
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  28. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    Yes that's the correct length for a Workbee. The OB ones are a bit longer, to compensate for the thicker end blocks.

    I use the Sainsmart TB6560 drivers, but just about any TB 6560 or 6600 driver works well. Available on Amazon for about $15., or Sainsmart.com

    MG
     
  29. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Veteran
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    Hey, thanks for your message, yes they would be long enough, we supply them at 1031mm with the machine.

    Ryan
     
  30. Mr McPenny

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    I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a WorkBee Mechanical Screwdrive Kit.
    I'm a total noob so could use some advice on Stepper Motors, Drivers. Power Supplies and I guess the Controller too.
    Seems to me that a more powerful stepper motor would be better. I'm thinking of NEMA 23 larger 425 OZ model.
    Does that make sense?
    DO all NEMA 23 motors have the same mounting footprint? In other words will the larger motors fit the mounts supplied in the kit?
    Does each motor need it's own power supply?

    Drivers
    I'm looking at
    STEPPERONLINE Digital Stepper Driver 1.8~5.6A 20-50VDC for Nema 23, 24 Stepper Motor DM556T
    Is that a good choice? [There appears to be a lot of copy cats, knock offs in this industry. I'd rather not feed that beast, need help identifying the good guys and bad.

    And I have no idea about power supplies - although Meanwell appears to have a good reputation [unless I got sucked into some hype] - again, I need some guidance.

    I appreciate the advice of you pioneers that have gone ahead of the rest of us. It's nice of you to share what you've learned along the way.
     

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