Does anyone know where I can buy a set of "3” Xtension Male to JST Male Stepper Motor connector"? I ordered a bundle from the site and none of my steppers came with them, so I ordered JST connectors and crimped them onto the cables, I swear I do not see anything wired wrong but I hooked the first motor up to Z axis to test before doing the rest and it refuses to turn... So rather than dork around with crimping on a bunch of JST I'd really just like to get the connectors, but I do not see them in the store anywhere. Thanks!
These guys: Xtension Connector Sets ? But if the parts store forgot to include them, just contact the store at https://openbuildspartstore.com/contact-us-form/ and they will make it right.
No I need the one that I see in the photos that goes from the motor to that style connector. I assumed they just weren't included...I have had SUCH a bad run with companies lately forgetting parts...I sent an email yesterday but, guess I just play the waiting game...kind of regret getting into this...
Sorry, misunderstood. This is for the NEMA 17s. Yes, that part should have been included. But as for contacting them, don't expect a reply on weekends.
Yeah I didn't expect a response this weekend, just, super bummed...I've rechecked the wiring, the powercase, the red light on the logo of the powercase comes on when the PSU is powered on, the fan on the PSU and the fan on the BlackBox do not come on, no movement occurs. Unless there is something else I am not seeing it would appear something is dead in addition to the missing parts...
Yea, I tried Lead Machine and C-beam. For reference the physical frame this is hooked up to is a Mill Right Carve King, lead screws on all axis, dual Y. I bought this because I had a HORRIBLE experience with MR (their controller lasted all of a whopping half hour out of the box before spitting sparks, they shipped it missing numerous parts, and the owner had a meltdown at the very suggestion there could have been a bad batch of kits). There are so many things I love about this kit, like the powercase, the use of PCB's is really clever...I'm trying really hard to just write it off as a fluke that parts were missing and it doesn't seem to want to work lol... Also note from my other post that the fan on the PSU and the fan on the BB do not power on. The PSU I'm not sure if it is thermal controlled or what, I have another MW 24v power supply in a box somewhere but I'm reluctant to screw around too much...I know way more about 3D printers than I do CNC.
Only just noticed the other thread is same user. helps to keep things in one thread to avoid scattered facts and confusion Right so next check. Did the led behind the OpenBuilds logo on the PowerCase light up? - if not, did you follow the instructions on the big yellow sticker on the PSU to set the 230/115v switch? 400
Yes it does and yes I did, the very first thing I did after taking the PSU out of the box was to flip it to 115.
Good stuff. So up to the PowerCase we have power. Onward the checklist: - Wiring between PowerCase and BlackBox done without pinching insulation / screws not tight / etc (good solid connection - if in doubt, redo connection) - Measuring 24v at the terminals going into BlackBox? - Correct polarity as shown printed on the side panels of the BlackBox? - Terminal plugged into BlackBox all the way (if not seated deep enough it will not make contact) - BlackBox Fuse checked OK - BlackBox Power Switch ON - BlackBox Fan should spin if power is connected and switch is on - no other circuitry in between - and the RGB LED behind the logo should light up as well. Note PSU fan will not spin up until PSU internals go over 50degC - see datasheet: https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/LRS-350/LRS-350-SPEC.PDF page 2 about halfway down: "FUNCTION: FAN ON/OFF CONTROL"
Yeah I dragged the other meanwell 24v PSU I have out and double checked that, I just couldn't remember if it was normal or not but yeah it is. I don't smell the magic smoke, I don't hear any odd noises. When I turn the PSU on nothing changes on the BB. I assume the BB fan will only turn on when there is 24v power and not when you plug it into USB, I very much doubt it's a 5v fan but just checking.
Nope, it is a 24v fan, directly on the 24v rails. So from your description, you aren't getting 24v into the BlackBox (bad connection, plug, fuse, polarity as laid out above)
Checked the fuse, the wires seem...fine as far as I can tell, I do have another plug adapter I can hook up to it but the wire in question connects the 115 into the PSU and if that wire was bad I would imagine the PSU wouldn't power on. I made sure the terminals were tight, made sure the powercase board was put in right (as shown in the pics)...I made sure the power cord from the PSU to BB terminals were snug, I took photos of them to verify polarity...not really sure what else to do/check.
That is bad luck indeed! Until you can address that (which would tell us a lot more) you can check: - Does the Green LED inside the PSU stay lit when you turn on the BlackBox (or does the green LED inside the PSU go out, indicating it went into short circuit protection?) - Does the controller still connect over USB? - Test with just PSU connected in case of of the accesories wired in as well is causing an issue
After a trip for batteries it appears my meter is dead, even better! I'll check the green light, the controller connects over USB and responds to commands no issue. The reset switch on the BB when pressed is reflected in the terminal connection in Control. One sec on the other items.
Alright...new multimeter, 24v measured at the BB , the terminals on the cable marked PSU. Hooked up a after powering it all off, powered back on, sent command to Z, 0v measured on A coil, 0v measured on B coil. As mentioned before I checked the fuse and it is not blown.
Good indication that there wasnt any major incidents The dead batteries one always gets me too, so I made a Lipo boost board to use 18650s (rechargeable) to power my multimeter, scope, and other handheld 9v test tools But a dead multimeter is a sad one!
OK so you have power up to the terminal. What about at the FAN terminals? (convenient spot to measure because its marked and easy to reach - and between the terminal and fan, there is only the switch and reverse voltage protection) Measuring stepper outputs is less good as that depends on power, settings, presence of a motor, grbl alarm conditions, etc and is better checked with a scope than a multimeter
0.8v And I only checked the motors as a quick dirty check, I don't love cracking the case open without knowing the circuit. But yeah, 0.8v at the fan header.
Black on GND (PSU side) and red on each of the legs of each side the switch please? (top and bottom is paralleled) Schematics on Files and Drawings tab of BlackBox Motion Control System
Thanks for the link! The switch was showing nothing and I got to thinking about the inside of the terminal, and sure enough it was pretty wobbly when I was plugging it in and that should have been a bigger red flag than it was (honestly after putting this mill right machine together I'm a bit numb to poor quality so I just assume things being loose is normal, that's a bad habit lol). Long story short the Hakko fixed the terminal and it powers on and drives the Z stepper now so whew! Now I just need to figure out how to get the cables shipped. I used the form so I suppose it's just a matter of waiting...at least its good to know I have the JST's and my wiring isn't wrong lol... Thanks for all the tips and the link, I just wasn't sure how much poking around I should do without worrying about warranty issues.
And we saved you a couple days of wait for a replacement Well done! And thanks for the patience to work the problem with us! The store will get them out shortly, we were just holding back to see if the board is in need of replacement too before packing up the parcel
Oh, hah! Seems you've been one step ahead of me all along. And man, seriously, after my recent experiences...I really appreciate the help...I REALLY, really, really appreciate it...thank you!
Sorry man, we got into it I guess I should've said support and I were talking in the backend - but for future reference we are always on top of it (;
I do have a follow up unrelated question. What should the steppers (the NEMA 17's from the bundle) output voltage be set to? The documentation just says adjust it until you cannot stall it under normal circumstances...which isn't very descriptive, and I'm used to 3D printers where you typically get a set voltage you would measure off the stepper. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Pretty much all the way counterclockwise will do. The scale is offset so that its easy to adjust compared to the iffy little 3D printer drivers (who ever needs 0A - so ours start at about 1.3A)
Beautiful. Works like a charm, they barely get warm! Thanks again so much for the help, really appreciate it!
