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Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Metalguru, Jul 31, 2018.
Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Metalguru, Jul 31, 2018.
Improvements both real and suggested for the Workbee assembly
Metalguru published a new build:
Read more about this build...
Thank you for the post. I'm in the middle of building the 1510 OB version and have been thinking about a similar solution for the spoilboard config. It already comes with 3 supports, but I was thinking of adding the cross bracing like you have. Awesome!
Great post @Metalguru thank you for the feedback on the design as it goes a long way to help in many of the builds here.
Metalguru, you may want to add support for the spoil board on the outside 20x80 too. Maybe use only 3 on the center one and 3 on each of the outside ones. The spoil board is just wood. It could warp and maybe chatter.
The outside of the spoil board is attached to the 20x80's with screws through the board into tee nuts installed on the top outside slot . I usually use 4 tee nuts/screws on each side, and an additional 4 on the front and back rails. This way the spoil board is firmly held all the way around the perimeter and in the center.
I usually recess the front and back screws into the MDF so there is no chance of the bit hitting them accidentally, and they don't interfere if you have material hanging over the front or back of the bed. The left and right side are not recessed because the bit is physically unable to reach them.
Thanks for the feedback @Metalguru always good to get a second set of eyes on designs of machines. How things get pushed forward
Some great modification ideas shown here!
A somewhat related question: What are your customer builds usually using for the control system? xPro or Arduinos with external drivers?
I pretty much always use an Arduino Nano with a screw terminal shield to make wiring easy. It runs GRBL. I Never use XPro's, I have a very low opinion of boards with no replaceable drivers. Also doesn't have the current capability to properly run a NEMA23 motor. $200 down the tube if you blow a driver. Arduino/GRBL is definitely the best bang for the buck. You can get the whole thing for $15 on Amazon.
I use Sainsmart TB6560 individual stepper drivers, beacuse they are configurable and compact, only about 60mm square. They seem to be really reliable, only had one fail in 3 years. You can also use the ones OB sells, the 542's, but beware of cheap Chinese knockoffs. I've heard horror stories about some of those drivers having way substandard electronics. They all look the same from the outside. It pays to give a little bit more for them from a reputable dealer.
There are lots of other options for controllers if you want more funtionality. If you want to use MACH3, you can use a 32 bit controller like the UCC300 or the Ethernet Smooth stepper for smoother and more precise motor control. Easily upgraded from the arduino once you get the hang of it. You can also get some good 8 bit boards, the Panucatt Gradus M1 is a nice board, low cost with lots of replaceable driver options. It also runs GRBL. Be aware that Panucatt's customer service is horrible, it takes weeks to get an answer to a question out of them. Sales and shipping is quick, however.
Thanks so much for the detailed response. I'm currently using a tinyg but finding it doesn't have the oomph for the high-torque Longs motors I have. I've got a couple Nanos and an Uno around from a previous project, I think I will try a setup with a Nano and some TB6600 drivers. (my motors are rated around 4 amps peak IIRC, I think the TB6560's max out around 3 amps).
I really like your solution for the z-axis mounting! I have to adjust my anti-backlash nut and when I saw that I had to take everything apart I just face palmed. Such a stupid design. I'll definitely be using your method to mount the z-axis when I tear is all apart this weekend.
Cool. Glad I could help.
I find your 3 beams under the bed suggestion is already being done .I just assembled my Workbee 1010 and the video I followed to assemble it has 3 beams and so does the parts list.
I think it depends where you get your kit. Some have it, some don't. Perhaps it's been a general upgrade. I thought just my kit supplier was adding the extra beam. If you look in the PDF documentation from OOznest, they just show the two. In any case, the other mods I have done are not there...
For the beams under the spoiler board in our kit we vary the amount depending on the size. 750mm wide X-Axis has two. 1000mm X-Axis has 3. 1500mm X-Axis has 4.
I stand corrected. Thanks Ryan.
I'm stealing the bolt on Z setup.. I thought that's how the Workbee was but I guess I didn't look at it that close. I used 6 M5's.
Steal away, Gary. I stole it from OB CBXL plates anyway. No honor among thieves, right?
Hey that kinda looks like my Ox HD design. But I see some different stuff. Your own design?
Yes slight variation on the Ox HD
One of the plates is for linear rail Z axis.
Kewl. I'm working on a design that uses all HiWin style square linear rails. Parts on order. Uses 9mm rails for the Z axis, 12mm rails for the X, and 15mm for the Y. It will be a 500x500mm for proof of concept prototype. Need something more durable than these polycarbonate wheels.
Sounds good, I was able to get a hold of some hgh15 rails, but not what I would have picked.
They have a bit of drag because they are so tight, I might need to only use two blocks instead of 4 for the Z. mgn12 would be my pick for all around. Pick shows how big hgh15 is.
But it's amazing what can be done with the Openbuilds wheels and extrusions.
Yeah, I think those are a bit overkill for the Z axis. The MGN9mm rails fit actually just inside the v-slot, right at the top, so they should work good. And the MGN9H long carriages static load rating is 2.5KN each, which is an incredible 562 LbF. Static load rating is about 900LbF. For each one! I figured the Z axis has the least weight to support, the X has to support both the X and Z axes, so I went the next size up. The Y has to support all three, so I went another size up there. I'm a bit concerned that the MGN9's are light for the Z, but they are easily swapped out for MGN12's. We'll see once I get the prototype up and running.
The HGH15's you are using have a dynamic load rating of 3300 LbF, and a static load rating of 5200 LbF each! As I said, a bit overkill. You have a static load rating using 4 of those of nearly 21000LbF!
BTW, if you want cheap rails and lead screws, try RobotDigg.com or BangGood.com, Chinese suppliers with good prices and stock. They also ship DHL, so you get the stuff in a few days rather than a few weeks...
Yep, i agree, they were given to me to try out, so i'll try... In the future, I plan on doing a full rail and ball-screw machine similar to the YACLR build.
Can't beat free...
Any idea how to make the X c-beam sturdier so it does not bend when you put pressure on the router...If you push the router with your finger, you can see the c-beam slightly bend.
Easy answer - make it shorter. Hard answer - there's been a ton of speculation about ways to increase the stiffness. Everything from filling the c-beam with concrete or epoxy, tension rods inside the beam, bolting flat aluminum and even carbon fiber plates onto the c-beam, you name it. I don't know if there is much you can do with the Workbee because of the design of the c-beam and the carriages with plates on both sides. You can't make the c-beam much wider because you can't get long enough screws for the wheels.
The channel in the c-beam has to remain accessible to run your lead screw, if you were running belt drive you can bolt a piece of 20x40 into the channel which helps. Other than that. live with it, and work with the flex. Take your heavy cuts first, leaving them a bit oversize, and then do light finish cuts to minimize deflection.
If you can figure a way to make c-beam a lot stronger without altering its outside dimensions, you'd have a winner. If you used linear rails instead of wheels, you are no longer tied to the v-slot profile and you can get much heavier extrusions and do things like double them up. But that's a ground-up design.
That's look interesting!
Can you please list all the new parts you used and their quantities to make this improvement?
I don't have a parts list for the upgrade, but it's all mentioned in the build description.