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SCoreXY

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Aleksandar, Dec 7, 2016.

  1. Aleksandar

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    I didn't post long time anything about the build.
    zip file with Solidworks assembly is 500Mb and if you need it I can try and upload somewhere.

    I am uploading to dropbox now and I'll add a link to it.
     
    #31 Aleksandar, Feb 21, 2019
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2019
  2. Aleksandar

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    printing PETG on polycarbonate surface without heating.
     
  3. Aleksandar

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  4. Gatchaman

    Gatchaman New
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    Okay, back at work now and downloading........ Now I just have to see if my work place has a license...which they do!
     
  5. Aleksandar

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  6. Gatchaman

    Gatchaman New
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    This might take a bit of time to create a very super basic BOM as I can only do this during lunch time or quiet times and SW only works on a Windows 10 machine over here which is in another area :-I. And I can't do it at home plus I actually have to learn how to use SW from scratch!!! :). Don't have time to waste though as we are leaving the EU soon :-(

    Looking at the vid you posted I can see more Y banding more than Z banding but it's too late to comment on it now if you've re-used the part to build your Taz6, and the banding didn't look that bad from my point of view. Looks like a belt issue to me. You really don't want to see the monsters that have come out of my P802M!:-D I wish I had found out about your build a lot sooner then maybe we could have helped you to overcome this issue:)
     
  7. Aleksandar

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    After tearing it down I felt bad after seeing some prints on youtube of more expensive printers.
    At that time it looked bad but I was probably wrong.
    I have seen new ender 5 and I like the design and prints of it. Maybe next project?
     
  8. Gatchaman

    Gatchaman New
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    Ha ha :-D.
    The nice thing about the profile corexy philosophy is that you can, in thoery, design and make loads of different printers as long as you have a number of certain items like profile extrusion, screws, bolts, rod clamps, pulleys, belts, idlers, steppers, and so on and so forth, and you build a frame large enough to encompess all the moving parts. One frame to rule them all.
    At the end of the day 90% of the profile extrusion corexys' are all built using the same componenets just moved to a different postion on the frame.
    If I can get the core parts delivered in time then I might join you in your next adventure ;-).... although I wont be cnc'ing anything!!
     
  9. Aleksandar

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    I wanted to go as large as possible to maintain desk size. That is why 2020 500mm profiles are nice in my opinion.

    On current printer I am having issues on X axis surface only which is consiatent with 1204 ball screws I am using. It is pissing me off.

    Which board are you planning to use?
     
  10. Gatchaman

    Gatchaman New
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    Board? Do you mean controller board or heatbed?
    The controller board I have on order is the BIGTREETECH SKR V1.1 Control Board 32 Bit.
    Bigtreetech are working on v2 but I dont have much time to waste waiting for them to produce it.

    The heatbeds on order are a 300mm ~£21 and 400mm ~£47 on sale. One of each size. Someone bought a 500mm on Ali and noticed that the 500mm heatbeds are actually 300mm heatbeds bolted underneath 500mm alu plates. In the future if I want to go large then I'll do the same thing and bolt a 500mm Alu plate, if I can get one, to a smaller heatbed.

    Thinking about it now...I guess there's no point building a small frame for a smaller heatbed if you're serious about this. One would have to have to build a totally new frame for a large heat bed. If you have a large print to do then all you'd have to do is swap out the smaller heatbed or bolt an "adapter" to the top of the heatbed, just like the Creality ones on Aliexpress. Change the volume size in software, do a bed level, and you're good to go!

    Sigh....do I build frames for a 400 or 500mm max heatbed now?.....
     
  11. Aleksandar

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    this board looks really good. I have MKS sbase lso smoothie clone but with 8825 drivers which sucks.
    I might follow your steps. which drivers did you choose?

    I would go with 400mm plate as it maxes out at approx 370mm cube.

    If I do it again I would again go with 2020 and maybe some 2040 and would make cantilever Z axes with 2x14mm shafts and 1204 ball screw. this should be good.

    I have 750W 220V heater glued to 6mm bed and is a bit heavy for current setup but for core xy is good.
     
  12. Gatchaman

    Gatchaman New
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    Ha ha!
    Don't pull your hair out but I went with erm .....15x 8825 drivers. 5x for each for 200mm, 300mm and finally 400mm heatbed. Sorry but they were going for £0.75p each :-D!!!!! I know you need to put them in the right "mode" before you use them but I thought they were good compared to 4988, so I've read online. Got some smoothers and will add heatsinks to the the proper heat sink pads underneath the 8825 pcb. Hopefully that will fix the issues with them.......
    I read that they need a bit of tweaking voltage wise but are okay. Currently I "was" using a Melzi v2 board which used 4982 drivers on the board. I'm not got to elaboarate in the Melzi any more as it seems to have lost it's usb comms section on the main board so my pc can't actually talk to it hence the complete overhall of my 3d printing knowledge and skills.

    For a bed 6mm seems at bit heavy and thick....but who am I to criticize you :).
    I think large 2020 frames need bracing....or "cross bracing" if google serves me right. If you have access to quite a bit of 2020 or can model the stress points then try that before you build another 2020 frame. 45deg Bracing "might" negate the need for 2040 profile to hold up the XY carriage if my mind/imagination serves me right as........ Curently I can't model anything beacuse I need to learn how to use Solidworks from scratch :-(

    I think the problem with extrusion profile frames are we need to make some certain things standard. Standard just like ATX motherboards have standards. Like the CPU heat sink on an ATX board can only occupy a certain amount of (air)space therfore the stepper on a corexy 3d printer frame can only take up a certain amount of (air)space on the frame. Designing 3d printers would be so much easier if that was the case.

    Thanks to your input I'll finally build a 2x 400mmxy frames as standard. Will use a 400mm alu adapter to place over 300mm heatbed if I needs be. For quick and fast dirty small prints I could the 200mm P802M conversion build.
     
    #42 Gatchaman, Feb 22, 2019
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2019
  13. Aleksandar

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    I would appreciate less "music" when printer is running.

    6mm was accessable at that time and iz is good with silicone heater. No bending at all.
     
  14. Gatchaman

    Gatchaman New
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    Two things.

    One, Bigtreetech are about to launch skr v1.3 on the 1st. BIGTREETECH

    Two, I've just realised that your printer is based on Voron v1.5!! which I didn't see on the official Voron webpage and you didn't mention it on the build page. Ha ha ha...
    Found the github and downloaded the zip to build a BOM to compare to your printer when I get the time.
     
  15. Aleksandar

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    Hahaha.

    I didn't make BOM as I had most of things laying around except board and motors.

    I am crazy about E3D tool changer concept and plan to make CAD model...
     
  16. Gatchaman

    Gatchaman New
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    You know what, about 3-4 or years ago I saw a demo of a tool changer on a corexy frame. I think it was on an modified Ultimaker if I remember correctly. I lost track of it as life and other things call for ones attention. I'll be following you on the project if I can get my *** in gear and an Ail-x order out....
     
  17. Aleksandar

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  18. Gatchaman

    Gatchaman New
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    As a noob the hardest part will be sourcing the carbon fiber gantry if you haven't got access to a cnc to cut your own..... but you could use CF rods like the ones I bought for use on another corexy project until I found yours and the Voron. US $3.89 |Hot 3K 8mm x 10mm x 500mm Roll Wrapped Carbon Fiber Tube Boom For Multicopter For Quadcopter Accessories-in Parts & Accessories from Toys & Hobbies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

    One second thoughts it doesn't have to be CF... so ignore what I just wrote :)
     
  19. Aleksandar

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    It can be alu as well.
    CF is waaaaay too expensive.

    I have CNC mill which I built few years ago and used it to cut alu parts for printers.

     
    Gatchaman likes this.

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