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Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Mark Carew, Jun 15, 2018.
The OpenBuilds Sphinx 1050 - 500x1000 Lead Screw Machine
Mark Carew published a new build:
Read more about this build...
Hey guys just a heads up. We updated the build with an easier to understand xPRO controller diagram in tha main build page that should help to see how to easily wire up the machine to the xPRO controllers.
Hope this helps.
My bundle seems to have only sixteen (16) of the 25mm screws (see attached bundle list photo), but the video build instructions call for at least 20 of them. (Eight in Step 14 @ 45:33, eight in Step 15 @ 49:05, and four in Step 16 @ 53:58.)
Any suggestions? I'm guessing I can use some of the extra 27mm screws (mailed separately) to mount the NEMA 23 motor in step 16, but I did want to check on the discrepancy between the video and what was shipped.
Actually, at 54:36 the voiceover clearly says "20mm screws" (and the video shows 20mm screws), so I suspect it's just the title slide at 53:58 that incorrectly says "25mm M5 screws". The longer 27mm screws I tried are a bit painful to install, since the spanner wrench can't easily grab the nut from the end as shown in the video.
Hello Pm. It is my understanding that a second package was shipped to you. The Part Store will be reaching out to you with further details.
I was comparing this Sphinx 1050 with the smaller Sphinx 55 to see which parts were different & noticed the sketchup file for these 2 sphinx machines both have 2060 extrusions along the Y-axis base, but the parts list & video build show 2080's for this larger Sphinx. Also I notice that drop in tnuts are used instead of regular tnuts in some places. Could I just use the regular tnuts instead if I load them in the channel ahead of time? In a folgertech delta 3d printer build where they used the drop in tnuts they were problematic for me.
Hello David. We need to update the model to 20x80 that we ended up deciding to incorporate. As for replacing the Drop In Tee Nuts with regular Tee Nuts - this shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks for the info. I will order some extra regular tee nuts when I decide to buy this. I watched the build video for this & wiring build also. I like that open electronics case, but I thought the top should be covered for possible aluminum chips flying in. I decided to design a cover for this before purchasing to see how it looked. Here is what I came up with so far. I made a 1mm thin plate for the front to cover all the exposed holes & an angled top plate with a slot in the back. Seems like this should keep the debris away from the electronics & still allow good air flow. Does this look like a good idea? I will wait until I order this kit before test printing. The last screen shot shows the print orientation of the top cover.
Just curious, if I wanted to expand my 1050 to a larger platform, how much larger can I go? I see the lead screw tops out at 1040mm. So 1000x1000? What if I wanted to go to 1500(y axis) and 1000(x axis)?
You could modify your end plates and get 1/2"- 10 5 start precision acme screws from McMaster-Carr. You would need different bearings and anti-backlash nuts but these should fit in the cbeam channel. There are other ways as well, like custom building your own end pates with the existing CNC.
Ok, I think moving up to 1000x1000 would honestly be enough. What all would I need? Would upgrading to the high torque stepper motors be necessary?
This is how it is currently set up. I really need a dust boot though.
I would think that If you are happy with your current stepper motors, you would not have to upgrade. All you are doing really is increasing the axis that remains stationary. So, you should really not have much more additional weight to move around.
Here is a dust boot design I remixed for the Bosch Colt on my Sphinx 55 build (Remix of Bosch Colt Dust Boot to make one part by GeoDave). I included the fusion 360 file so you should be able to change to work with your router. I have an idea to make a version to mount to the front bottom of the C-Beam Endcap & side C-beam slots that would not move up & down with the router. Since it will have some side mounting it will probably loose 12mm of work space in the X-axis though. If I can use some thin metal flat bar or similar on the sides, probably would not loose much space.
Any ideas/comments about why the Spinx has wheels inside & on top of the Y axis beams?
Was it not rigid enough with internal wheels only?
Internal wheels seem like they would stay clean for much longer...
I got around this problem by adding some wheel guards. It is not a perfect solution & you might loose a little in the X-axis travel. Not sure I ever uploaded these files, but here is what they look like.
Sphinx 55 with 3D Printed Addons
Thank you for the link, your Spinx looks awesome
I was thinking about leaving out the top wheels entirely, but your wheel dust covers seem like they work just fine!