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Sphinx 55 with 3D Printed Addons

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by David Bunch, Nov 28, 2018.

  1. David Bunch

    David Bunch Veteran
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    I remixed a soldering jig to use machine screws to hold the wire while tinning them. My thought on using the screws was mostly to dissipate the heat from the soldering iron, but is probably far enough away not to hurt it. I will try it without the screws tomorrow to see if it makes any difference. I did 2 wires today to test it & the screws held the wire well & I did not see any damage to the insulation from holding them. Solder Screw Fingers by GeoDave
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  2. David Bunch

    David Bunch Veteran
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    I moved my Sphinx CNC to its new home in the shed Friday, a little earlier than I planned. We are redoing some of the floors in the house & needed to move it out of the way. I am planning to build an enclosure around it after I finish the wiring. BTW, those Hakko Professional Quality 20-30 AWG Wire Strippers I got from adafruit work really well.

    For the enclosure, I am going to start off with a wooden frame with slots to hold the partitions. For the partitions, I am going to start off with trying 6 sheets of 20x30 foam core for the sides since they are only $1 each at dollar store, but the wood will be slotted so I can change that to another material if that does not work. I am using MakerSL MSL-21 OB Minimill Enclosure layout as a starting point for the design. The frame will probably be 2x4's ripped in half which is less expensive than 2x2's, but will check prices today.
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  3. David Bunch

    David Bunch Veteran
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    I needed my 250mm length of 2040 for another project, so I decided to change the corners that attach the electronics case to the back v-slot to a single plastic part on each side. I made the V-slot plastic part 4mm thick where the T-nut grabs & added a little distance inside for a M5x20mm screw to pass thru. I only added 2 v-slot cavities to the plastic part, but only really needed 1. I added V2040_90_2x_Rev12.stl to the Files and Drawings tab. Here is what those 2 corners look like. This also takes up less space horizontally on the back of the machine as compared to that 250mm length of 2040 I was using.
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  4. David Bunch

    David Bunch Veteran
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    I added the file Sphinx55_3D_Addons.zip to the Files and Drawing tab that should be all the plastic parts that I used on this build. If I add any more to the build, I will upload a newer version of that .zip file. This file includes all the .stl & .scad source files I used. Some of these are also on thingiverse which I mentioned in previous posts. There are several .stl & the SphinxText_Rev3.scad that are only used for reference in the .scad files and do not need to be printed. The .stl files used for reference are: FacePlateArcs.stl, Spade_Connector.stl, C-Beam_End_Mount.stl, GT3_20T_TimingPulley.stl, NEMA23_ReductionPlate_C-Beam.stl, C_Beam_1mm.stl, V2080_1mm.stl, Sphinx_Y_Plate_WithM5Heads_Rev1.stl, xPRO_Board_V3.stl, LimitSwitch.stl. Several of the .scad files may take a while to run, especially the Hull_Side_Rev59.scad which is used for the electronics case. This is because of the hull() commands I used mostly. My PC is 8 years old, so your machine may run these a bit faster.
     
  5. David Bunch

    David Bunch Veteran
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    I updated the zip file of all my parts to Sphinx55_3d_Addons_V2.zip. I added CBeam3mmSpacerKeeper_Rev40.stl & scad file that I had forgot to add before which is shown on the 12/17/2018 build log entry. That little part covers the 4 - 3mm spacers on the end of the x-axis C-Beam. I also changed the electronics case to move the internal wire ties to better locations. You will notice from the attached photo that they could have been in better locations for routing the motor/limit switch wiring. The other version should still work and I do not plan to reprint this, but changed it for cleaner routing for those that will print it. I also adjusted that openscad file to be a little cleaner on the final STL file. The image shows Hull_Side_Rev58.stl. The newest version is now Hull_Side_Rev61.stl

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    GrayUK likes this.
  6. David Bunch

    David Bunch Veteran
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    Now that it is warm enough in my shed this week, I cut one motor wires back & tinned the ends late yesterday. I expect to get the rest of the wires cut back & tinned today. I made a modification to my Solder Screw Fingers remix to add the use of a vertical M6 screw. I have a few of those M6 screws I retrieved from esun filament spools. I could make this design a little easier to use by adding a plastic part to screw down on the wire. Since I am only doing about 20 wires this works well. I just tighten the screw down slowly and pull on the wire after each 1/4 turn or so until it is snug enough without damaging the insulation. That modified screw finger is the file SolderScrewFingers_M6_2x_Rev23.stl I tinned the ends longer than needed so I would not burn the insulation & will cut them back to correct end length before attaching to electronics. I am leaving about 6"-7" of extra length on each wire in case I need to move it a little. The X-axis is actually has no extra wire, so I do have to leave the case closest to that side of the machine for it to fit well. I think openbuilds should take a look at the length of wire in the wiring kit for the X-axis as they have it the same length as the 2 - Y axis wires which are a lot closer to the electronics than the X. Seems like an extra 6" would give it a little extra room. I have some extra 7' wires that came with the motors & would have used them if I had realized that before. Since they do reach, don't think I will bother changing them out.

    I also discovered a while back the idea of using blue tape to pick up all the bits & pieces of small wire to help dispose of those wires easier. I Just fold the tape back on itself before throwing it in the trash can. I am using colored electrical tape I got from Lowes awhile back to color code the different motor/limit switch wires. Red for X, Green for Y, blue for Z, Yellow for A Axis. I was going to use White for LED, but may not bother coding that wire. I used a razor blade to cut the outer insulation back. Think I got those blades from dollar tree. Here are some photos.
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  7. David Bunch

    David Bunch Veteran
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    Think I got all the wiring redone today. I had to re-strip & tin a couple of wires that did not look good on my 1st try. That is another good reason to leave 6" or so extra wire. The little extra wire also helps when wiring the xPro out of the case. I had bought a PCB clamp holder from adafruit earlier this year & it really came in handy for wiring this board up while keeping it close to its mounting location. I will double check the wires tomorrow before powering it up again. I had a photo of the wiring I did before shortening the wiring which was very helpful for reference without having to re-watch the build video. I made a little plastic jig for cutting the ends of the wires to the correct length. It worked well for me. It is a very simple jig & can be seen in the 1st 2 photos. The jig is shown with all 4 motor wires in it, but I only put one wire in at a time when cutting as it was easier to make sure it was the correct length.
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  8. David Bunch

    David Bunch Veteran
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    I wire tied the wiring yesterday & might redesign those 2 Y-motor connect covers to have a way to wire tie to the back bottom aluminum spacers. I have to clean off my work bench beside the Sphinx before I test it again.
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  9. David Bunch

    David Bunch Veteran
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    I am considering offering a bundle of the 3d printed parts for this build for those that do not have a 3d printer or that would prefer not to print the parts themselves. Looking back on my print data, looks like 22 parts & a total print time around 33 hours. I think the total weight is around a pound or less. The electronics case is the most weight at around 5oz. I use the eSUN PLA+ filament as it prints best for me & offers a little bit of flex that normal PLA does not. This bundle would only include the plastic printed parts & none of the additional hardware. Initially the cost I am looking at is $104 which would include shipping & would fit in a medium flat rate box. If you are in NC, I would have to charge sales tax. Depending on how the printing goes, that cost may go up a little. I have enough plastic to print a set in Fire Engine Red and Black. Not sure how well the sphinx logo would show up in black. The CBeam3mmSpacerKeeper I would print in either black or silver as the location of that part does not look good in a highlighted color, at least to me. I am also starting to move my design workflow from openscad to fusion 360, starting with the electronics case and am almost done with that. I might be able to get the print time down a little for that part after remodeling it in fusion as I might be able to get the thickness of that part's walls down a hair. Is there any interest in this bundle of 3d printed parts?

    I have one plastic part of my 1st design of the electronics case that matches the hole patterns of the openbuilds opencase & could sell that for $12 which would cover the shipping and cost of the plastic. That case is shown in this post and the previous message. That includes 3 parts, the case, back fan mount grille and the Sphinx name plate. The color is the light blue as shown in the photos. First person to private message gets that part.
     
  10. David Bunch

    David Bunch Veteran
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    I am making a lot of progress learning Fusion 360 now. I started watching some of the beginner videos that Lars Christensen does & they are very helpful. I redid the electronics case & cut out 17% of volume. That is a good model to work thru since it has quite a few design problems & a pain to work with in openscad. I am going to change it again since I know better how to adjust the model now. I also redid the Motor Mount connection covers & they came out really well. I changed the thickness from 2mm to 1mm & printed with 0% infill. Since they are just covers, that minimal thickness works well. Since they bend around the spacers very easy now, I made the hook around the bottom spacers wrap around it a little more. I created a version with the Sphinx Logo, Openbuilds Logos & a honeycomb imprint. One thing I really like with Fusion 360 is the ability to taper & round along edges. That process was a pain & sometimes very difficult in openscad. Here is a photo of that motor mount with the honeycomb embossed. You can find those updated motor mount covers here: Openbuilds End Motor Mount Cover by GeoDave
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