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KeePrint Monster

Discussion in '3D printers' started by checkeredBug, Apr 21, 2019.

  1. checkeredBug

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    checkeredBug published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
  2. Shortyski13

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    What do you plan on using that massive volume for?
    I too was planning on creating one, about the same size as yours. Then I realized that most things I wanted to use the huge volume for would be much cheaper and better quality just buying it outright instead of DIY via 3d printing (thinking wind turbine blades). Not to mention, long prints like that have a high chance of messing up the entire print a day or two in. Plus the huge amount, cost, and weight of plastic used to fill that volume and that the frame would be more prone to shaking and vibrating, I relegated to a "smaller" 2x2.5x3ft frame giving a build volume of about 20w"x26L"x28h". Even that, I don't think I'll use the whole thing.

    How much is this costing you?

    EDIT: Also, and I don't know how true it is, I heard that a good 3d printer makes for a less than optimal CNC machine, and vice versa. Thus, you may want to consider getting 2 separate machines for that. They often have opposite requirements (light frame and components and quick/fast motors, vs heavy duty frame and slow powerful components). I don't have much experience with cnc routers tho, so ymmv and take that with a grain of salt.

    Good Luck and don't forget finished pics!!
     
  3. checkeredBug

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    So yes, I'm crazy. This build came due to a combination of factors. One is I acquired a bunch of 45x45 aluminum frame a few years ago for little to no cost. I am an engineer and I write my own software and do my own mechanical and electrical engineering at work so I understand all parts of these printers(to some degree). I have several Anet A8s and have been frustrated by build volumes all the time. I also am a former filmmaker, so my primary purpose in mind is movie props and stage props. Usually, I am making things with VERY thin walls that look good in the background. I tried printing some stormtrooper helmets and spent a few weeks gluing the pieces together and I realized my time is more valuable than printer time. In other words, I have more money for equipment than I do time... so all that to say, I'm not as concerned about the print time as I am what needs to be done after the print is complete. Also when I saw the CoreXY design I realized I could make a machine that is light AND strong since I can buy larger motors and none of them move. I also have some ideas about changing the printer over to a painting printer with actual brushes and i needed the room to fit a canvas/large paper in there. I also wanted to print out picture frames without having to glue pieces together. I guess what I really wanted was and xyz frame that could handle just about everything I could throw at it.

    As for cost I have about 1k in it but if you were to do it from scratch it might be more like 2k since I am using lots of industrial relays and metal I had laying around.

    Thank you for the detailed questions, wasn't sure what caliber of people I would find on the forum... nice surprise.
     
  4. Shortyski13

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    That sounds Awesome!

    Just curious, what belts are you going to be running on it? I'm leaning towards 10mm wide GT2 for mine, but not totally sure.
     
  5. checkeredBug

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    I am using the smaller belts same as an Anet A8 6mm I believe. I figured since it's my design I would upgrade to 10mm if the six has problems. Maybe a mistake, but time will tell.
     
  6. Shortyski13

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    I just posted my new build, Mushu. Feel free to give me any suggestions based off your learning for yours! It's somewhat similar size; very large but a little smaller than yours. I haven't posted too many pics yet since the model doesn't show everything, but described the key aspects.
     
  7. Shortyski13

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    Another question due to my ignorance...
    CNC milling requires different software than 3D Printing (AFAIK). Will you be reinstalling new software onto your controller board whenever you want to switch from one to the other, or will you swap boards in and out?
    ...Or am I just wrong on that in the first place?
     
  8. Donaldus57

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    HI how about posting all the STL Files so we caan also make one ?
     
  9. checkeredBug

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    Ramps 1.4 and marlin can do the trick both for CNC and 3d print. As for not having to flash it, I can tweak the coded to add a selector for the head if I want, but short term reflashing with a head change takes about 30 seconds.

    The STL file I posted has the entire printer in it(at least what I have so far). I have two problems with this forum.
    1. It does not allow you to post freecad files. Freecad is an EXCELLENT open source parametric modeller and I'm not sure why this site doesn't allow you to post the files. I could zip them all up, and post that and on second thought i should probably do that. ALSO this site doesnt' allow you to post .blend files which is also open source visualization which is where I assemble my printer and model all my 3d print parts. Anyway, all you need do is opent the STL I posted and pull out the part you want to print..... all that being said, point taken, I will try and zip everything up and post it soon.
     
  10. checkeredBug

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    ok, just submitted the zip... have fun:) I will say I did all the wiring in my head so I don't have a decent schematic. The wiring is standard ramps wiring, but I put mail .1 connectors into the sockets for the 4988 stepper controllers and ran them over to the stepper drivers I bought off amazon. There is one 12v supply for the controller and the extruder and the two 24V supplies each power two nema23s. I didn this because one supply that could do all four actually cost more than two smaller ones. I am really amazed at how quiet it turned out. My Anet A8 is actually louder than this thing.
     
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  11. Donaldus57

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    I downloaded that STL File and its showing some kinda plate , nothing else
     
  12. Donaldus57

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    aah new STL File now cool, but the Printer Assembly 3D object file only shows a strange plate , nothing else
     
  13. checkeredBug

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    Please download and install on your PC blender version 2.8
    Blender 2.8 — blender.org
    then open the .blend file or the stl(actually not the stl file, it's a little old) the .blend is the main assembly file I use to assemble the parts from freecad. Freecad is creating an assembly module but it isn't stable atm. Once you have the .blend open you can click on any part and export any object as stl.
     
  14. lilltroll

    lilltroll New
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    Hi

    How rigid is the frame?
    What acceleration and velocities will it handle before you get dynamic mechanical problems in the structure, resulting in a poor print? I need to build a printer with 40x-40y-90z cm build space. I would prefer to downscale a build that has proven to work at a larger size. Your printer are interesting.
     
  15. checkeredBug

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    Those are great questions. I'm building the printer to find out;) The frame isn't as rigid as I'd like just pushing on it with my hand and using pronterface shuttling the Y axis around (x seems pretty stiff) atm, I'm adding cross bracing to stiffen. I wanted to buy sheet metal to bolt the sides for stiffness, but that will be expensive so for now I'm using extra frame I have lying around.
     
  16. Shortyski13

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    Giant sheet metal filing cabinets from Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace.
    That's my plan
     
  17. lilltroll

    lilltroll New
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    What about using a thin MDF board on 3 sides + bottom of the printer to stiffen up? I am looking for a design where some type of sheets can be added to the sides. I have installed Blender, and is playing around with your design.
     
  18. lilltroll

    lilltroll New
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    You mean X axis as it is defined in Blender?
     
  19. Shortyski13

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    AFAIK, MDF, like wood, changes shape and size with humidity and temperature quite a bit. It could work, but unless in a serious budget id look at metal or plastic or glass.
     
  20. checkeredBug

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    What a novel concept, take the 3 seconds to rotate everything so the x y and z are correct in blender.... like I would do that:p To be honest, it never occurred to me, I'm so used to xy and z being arbitrary in blender I never change it from what it defaults to, so no not in blender. In my printer the x axis is the short direction on the top, the y is the long on the top and the z is vertical travel on the build plate.
     
  21. checkeredBug

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    If I were being cheap, I would buy a bunch of these:
    https://www.amazon.com/TOUHIA-Bracket-Aluminum-Extrusion-Profile/dp/B07P6DP1CF
    which I did and put them in the corners, they work amazingly well, I have a bunch of extra 45x45 so I'm going to put diagonals of that in and bolt through the holes I drill in the diagonal pieces of aluminum brackets. If I didn't have the extra 45x45 I would just buy some threaded rod and turnbuckles and cross brace with those. Similar to how biplanes stiffen the wings with tension wires:
    Making Functional Biplane Rigging Wires - Model Airplane News
    or some such...
     

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