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Custom build 80w Co2 Laser Cutter

Discussion in 'Laser Cutters' started by CChico, Dec 7, 2018.

  1. CChico

    CChico Well-Known
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    CChico published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
  2. pedrofernandez

    pedrofernandez Veteran
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    hello that machine frame is looking pretty good, Ill follow your work and most interested on the Hiwin rails for my build upgrade, one small advice from a been there done that fellow Co2 builder,, try to build the X Y stage as a separate unit from the frame, like a floating unit, it will make your life a breeze when time says it is time to align everything out, mostly and more critical on the size you are working on, best wishes on your endeavor!!!
     
    #2 pedrofernandez, Dec 7, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2018
  3. CChico

    CChico Well-Known
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    Hey, yeah after I started building it I realized that it would have been a lot easier making the xy axis outside and just mounting it inside the frame. I tried being careful and be as leveled as I could but I’m guessing I’m going to have to tweak that thing a lot as soon as I drop the laser in. I should get the tube in by late next week. I already have an even more complicated build in mind where that will come in handy. If you have any other tips I’d be glad to hear them. Thanks.
     
  4. pedrofernandez

    pedrofernandez Veteran
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    What linear rails and blocks models are you using for this build?
     
  5. CChico

    CChico Well-Known
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    I'm using MGN12 Linear Rails with MGN12C Carriage blocks. My Chinese 80w laser already uses them so I figured I'd use them on this build. What are you thinking about using?
     
  6. pedrofernandez

    pedrofernandez Veteran
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    still on the look on what to use, have you test your x y motion already? how you like it?
     
  7. CChico

    CChico Well-Known
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    Everything feels good so far. I'm waiting on a 2:1 gear reducer for the y-axis. I have a 3:1 pulley on there now but it's too big and the laser tube won't fit because of it. Then I'll be able to properly test it but my 80w laser already uses the MGN12 Rails and Carriers and I've abused the crap out of my machine and they are still operating smoothly. Love your build btw. Something like that is what I originally intended to do with my old k40 but I wanted to upgrade the tube to an 80w, so I was going to need a make a much bigger frame and upgrade motors and get a new controller so I figured why just not build it from scratch.
     
  8. pedrofernandez

    pedrofernandez Veteran
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    Thanks, are you using normal 2GT or something else, Belt width, im about to jump into rails soon bur afraid to buy the wrong stuff!!!
     
  9. CChico

    CChico Well-Known
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    I can definitely understand. The rails get expensive rather quickly. I ended up using 3M instead of 2GT. Performance wise from what I’ve read, they are identical and both are designed for linear motion. I went with 3M because it seems to be easier to source at longer and wider lengths than 2GT which are mostly used for smaller builds.

    I found this website when I first was planning the build and it made me feel better about buying belts. Which ever way you go just make sure that you get the corresponding pulleys

    Choosing Belts and Pulleys - RepRap
     
  10. Satish Veda

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    Hi CChico,
    Great work ! Have you thought of a belt less system? Or is the cost of a ball-screw based system way too high?
    Also:- How are you planning on metrics?
    *Accuracy *Precision & Throughput
    ThanX!!
     
  11. CChico

    CChico Well-Known
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    Hey Satish,

    To be honest I hadn't even thought about using a ball-screw based system but I can only imagine that the cost would be astronomical plus I don't believe that it is needed. The precision with belts is already down to .01 I think but the score mark that the laser makes is much bigger than that so in the end, you wouldn't be gaining much as far as precision. I'm sure it would make for a much nicer heftier maybe longer lasting machine but it is also easy and cost effective to replace a belt. I am rather curious though. I'm going to look into how much it would have been if I used them in my system.
     
  12. Satish Veda

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    >>I think but the score mark that the laser makes is much bigger than that so in the end, you wouldn't be gaining much as far as precision.
    Hey CChico: Thanks for the reply. The Std. Dev (Sigma) would need to be added to the Laser score mark dia. So in the case of a belt system the (Sigma)^2 would
    get larger as you progress through the workload (due to heat generated via friction).
    Probably a non-issue, for cutting, however, maybe an issue for fine engraving.
    BTW:- Do you have belts on all axes?
    Also I presume you're planning to run Stepper's w/o encoders?
    TIA
    -SVeda
     
  13. MikeBardsley

    MikeBardsley Well-Known
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    I purchased the open builds 1000mm 20/40 setup to start with, are you concerned about the sag/flex you will get on your axis as your head travels?
     
  14. Satish Veda

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    >>are you concerned about the sag/flex you will get on your axis as your head travels?
    Hi Mike: Yes. However, there are at least '2' components to the above.
    1. Static Component (at the very beginning of a workflow, for ex):- where the sag/flex will add (or subtract) to the variance in positioning.
    2. Dynamic Component: (Where the Sag/Flex will include a Temporal variable to the process).

    Again ...these are non-issues, if cutting to a tolerance of say +/-1mm (in this case)
    However, if you changed the Laser (and hence the spot dia) and have a spot size to be 1/10th of +/-1mm, then we have an issue.
    You would probably change the laser and the optics (and hence it's spot size) for fine engraving.

    So Basically:- I was asking if ball screws could be designed in (to greatly reduce environmental variances, like temp & humidity).
    Maybe an "Over-design" for coarse cutting, but would make the machine more deterministic and multipurpose.
    Regards,
     
  15. Satish Veda

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    CChico:- How RU? I would recommend leveling feet. You could still use the rollers. The leveling feet will give you the ability to level out the garage floor, for ex.
    Best,
     
  16. CChico

    CChico Well-Known
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    That's actually a really good idea. I had not thought about using levelling feet but I think I will. Would make my life easier. I don't trust those rollers at all. Thanks.
     
  17. Satish Veda

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    "My 80w Chinese laser came with an extremely loud exhaust, air assist, and water pump, all 110v. My goal for this build is to replace all those peripherals with DC components so that I can eliminate all those loud components with much quieter ones and so that I can eliminate all those plugs and control everything directly from the laser (that's the purpose of all the buttons in the front of the machine.)"

    Hi CChico,
    Howdy? Regarding your recent post (in quotes above). If you moved the Laser Cooling function to the DC side, you're introducing a Single Point of Failure.
    So basically, when the DC power supply fails (or has anomalies), you're Laser has ZERO cooling! You'll be shortening the Laser tube lifetime.
    Also:- On the performance side, your cooling anomalies will influence the Laser beam variances. These anomalies maybe subtle and not noticeable w/o cooling metrics (via data logging) and measurement of Laser parameters (in real time, over a specific time period).
    Regards,

    P.S. Have you planned for a Cooling Malfunction Interlock (which would shut power off to the Laser)?,
     
  18. CChico

    CChico Well-Known
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    Hey, so far this is what I’ve come up with. When I push a button to turn the water pump on, it also turns on my water temperature display, and it also turns a light on behind a visual water flow indicator. I’m also looking into getting a water flow sensor which are relatively cheap, I’ll just have to find out how to make it work with my control board, cohesion 3d laserboard, or rig something with the raspberry pi I already have inside of the machine.
     

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