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      I have been looking at buying an openbuilds machine to cut aluminum for awhile and waited for the Black Friday sale before purchasing. I went back & forth between the MiniMill, C-Beam & the Sphinx. I liked the MiniMill for being small, but thought I would need a little larger parts than what that could do. Also the MiniMill & C-Beam I did not like the exposed leadscrews on the inside. This sphinx looks like it is the perfect size and appeal to me. I considered going with the larger Sphinx because it was not that much more in price, but decided on this since it fits in my workspace easier. My wife liked the Sphinx name better, so it was easier to sell her on this build. When openbuilds came out with that new Lead 1010 machine I was really tempted to buy that & just replace my MPCNC machine, but it was just a little too big for my 20'x10' shed. My MPCNC fits on a 3'x4' table in the center of the shed. I have already watched the build videos for this machine & did buy the wiring kit to make my life easier.

      To get a head start on my build, I have been playing with the electronics enclosure. I really like the simple open design of that case, but for my situation I wanted a little more protection of the electronics, so I started designing a 3d printed plastic case. I started off just making a shield for the top and a thin solid plate where the bottom attaches. I figured the top of that case is the most vulnerable for debris getting in. After a few design changes, I just made a new top & bottom that should work well. After a test fit of the parts in this design, I will upload the files to thingiverse. I use openscad for the design & made the hole offsets & key dimensions easily modified with changing variables.

      I also want to make an enclosure for this machine to keep the aluminum cuts from going everywhere, but that will not happen right away. I am planning to use a Bosch Colt for the router as that is what I had for the MPCNC. I would like to get a 400w - 500w spindle at some point, but not sure which one would be a good fit for this machine yet. Anyone have suggestions for which one to get & how it hooks up with the xPRO board?

      FedEx delivered the package today and took me over 2 hours to check the quantities of all the parts against the invoice. I could not believe how they got the exact quantity of all the parts except I had one extra M5 locknut. Tomorrow I plan to start the build. I had ordered a couple of other things with this order, so I had only the parts for Sphinx 55 build on the scale. I was also pleasantly surprised to see the power case kit included. That should make the wiring even easier & more clean.

      11/29/2018 3:32am
      After a 7 hour print of the case, I discovered there was a layer shift near the bottom of the part. It is only the 2nd time I have printed this part, so 3rd time will be the charm. It is along my y-axis on my Makerfarm i3v, so will adjust the eccentrics on those wheels as that seems to be the culprit & reprint it today. I am weighing the assembly at each step in case I want to know the weights at some point.

      After looking at part of the build video again today, I realized I needed to tap the holes in the 2060 extrusion or use the self tapping screws as the video does. I missed that before. I wanted to tap the holes rather than use the self tapping screws in case I want to connect something else there later. I never tapped holes before, so did some more research before trying this. I cleaned up the aluminum extrusions today & started working on an idea to make a 3d printed cover plate for the 2060's instead.

      After getting up early this morning & trying another idea for a cover, I came up with a design I really like. I do not really need to tap the 2060's, but wanted to do this since I had not done this before. I only tapped the center holes which is all I will need to keep the 1 cover on if the press fit does not hold up over time. I bought a M5 tap from the local ACE store, but my keyless chuck drill slipped on it. I remembered Rick's idea from the Delta-Six thread awhile back & his method of using a 3/16" and that worked quite well.
      IMG_5822_800x600.jpg IMG_5823_800x600.jpg IMG_5824_800x600.jpg
      After drilling it, I used a Stainless Steel M5x40mm screw to thread it. Before taking the extrusion inside, the loose metal needed to come off. So off I went to ACE hardware, but they had sold all 6 pipe cleaners they had yesterday to a lady that was using them for holiday decorations. While thinking of where else I might find them, Dollar Tree came to mind & low & behold they did and they were 12" and only a $1. IMG_5825_800x600.jpg
      Before going home I also stopped at the UPS store to recycle those nice Box stiffening corners that openbuilds put on my well packaged shipment. The guy there really lit up when he saw them & was happy to take them.

      For the Tap holder guide, I used V-Slot Tap Holders by makerparts but modified a little & also used his profile as a template for the outer V-Slot connection cover.
      I uploaded a couple of STL files of the covers which is an earlier version. The latest version can be found V-Slot Clip-On Endcap Covers by GeoDave which handles all the V-slot sizes. I like to use the Octagram Spiral pattern for top/bottom infill as it looks kind of cool with the right plastic. It is not quite as obvious with this color. BTW, this blue plastic is eSun Light Blue PLA+. Here is a photo of what they look like.
      IMG_5826_800x600.jpg V2060_Cover_Rev9.jpg

      11/30/2018 Evening
      I went through Steps 1 & 2 in the build video today. I put regular Tee nuts in for the drop Tee nuts used with the spoiler board brackets. I also added a couple of extra Tee nuts on each side in case I want to mount the P/S or something there. In the last photo you can see that I put a plastic cap on each of those extra Tee Nuts to keep them from rattling. The frame went together pretty good & did not have to redo anything yet. I also have one of those magnetizing devices, so I used it on the ball driver when a couple of the Tee Nuts were hiding behind a bracket. Think he mentions magnetizing it sometime in that video. Here is a link to what I use. Wiha 40010 Magnetizer or Demagnetizer
      IMG_5827.jpg IMG_5829.jpg IMG_5831.jpg IMG_5834.jpg IMG_5838.jpg IMG_5840.jpg IMG_5841.jpg IMG_5842.jpg IMG_5845.jpg

      I finalized my clip on V-slot cover design and uploaded it to thingiverse V-Slot Clip-On Endcap Covers. This design should work with all the V-slot extrusions. I only tested it with 2020, 2040 & 2060. I went from Step 3 thru step 9 of the build video. Some the bearings did not go in with press fit & had to persuade them with a rubber hammer on wood. The larger wheels needed a bigger hammer, so I sandwiched the wheels between wood before pressing them completely in place with the hammer.
      IMG_5850_800x600.jpg IMG_5853_800x600.jpg IMG_5854_800x600.jpg IMG_5855_800x600.jpg IMG_5856_800x600.jpg IMG_5858_640x480.jpg

      I swapped both 2060's I had put together a few days ago to the other 2060's I had that were exact same 501mm length. I should have checked these a little more carefully before initially putting it together, but that is just part of the DIY experience. I apparently damaged one of mini-wheel bearings when seating them in place with the rubber hammer as one of them sounds rough and a little tight when spinning it with my hand. I ordered a couple spare wheels, so will not get anymore done on this until they arrive next week. Consequently, I would not recommend using my method of seating those wheels or at least buy a couple of extra in case you mess one up. Not sure how else I could have gotten them seated all the way in. Maybe next time I will just try screwing an M5 screw in with a plate behind it to see if that works better. At any rate, I only messed up 1 in 36 wheels, so that is pretty good. I uploaded a Remix of M5 Tap for all types of V-Slot design today. I printed a simple template with lines for the hole spacing 1/3 of the way down the 2080's for the spoiler board connection.

      While waiting on my other parts to arrive, thought I would design another cosmetic cover plate to cover the 2 front Y-Plates. Only 3 of the M5 holes will be exposed and will need those screws to be 5mm longer, M5x20mm. I initially made the M8 leadscrew hole exposed, but thought it might be good to cover that also. Here is a screen capture of what the front & back of that cover looks like.

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  • Build Details

    Build License:
    • CC - Attribution - CC BY

    Reason for this Build

    To cut aluminum plate
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