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Where do I start??

Discussion in 'General Talk' started by Gordon Steeves, Feb 12, 2017.

  1. Gordon Steeves

    Gordon Steeves Well-Known
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    Just found Open Builds forum. BIG QUESTION. Where do I start, I would like to build a CNC router setup about 2' x 4', and I want to mostly build guitar bodies and necks, also some inlay work. Please point me in the correct direction, cause I'm confused :confused:
     
  2. D Stevens

    D Stevens New
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  3. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    For something that big, I would use lead screws or rack and pinion. Mine is 1500 mm by approximately 850mm but cuts just over 50 inches (1275 mm) by just over 26 inches (670mm). I used Acme 1/2"-10 Size, 1/2" Travel/Turn (5 start) precision screws sold in 72" lengths from McMaster-Carr . They seem to be very accurate with no noticeable screw whipping. I calculated out the steps per mm, sent it 1000 mm and the bit was dead on. My build is highly customized though (Lead Screw Driven Ox Derivative (850x1500)) and I do not have a parts list. Basically, I drew it in Sketchup and hand counted all the various sized screws and wheels then ordered extra to be safe. DazTheGas built a regular Ox and upgraded it with lead screws and did a great job of documenting DTG OX . His could be easily made larger by using the 1/2"-10 screws I mentioned on the Y axis, but the bearing holes would have to be modified for the larger lead screw and a larger anti-backlash nut.

    One thing to remember when designing these is you need to subtract out the size of the gantry plates from the total cutting area since you will lose that much distance. This was a major factor in my plate design because I needed to be able to cut pieces 48" in length. Read through a few of the other larger builds as well. There are other great designs with instructions written like Kyo's Sphinx build C-beam Sphinx and there are a few rack and pinion builds, as well. Kyo's build also does a great job showing how to wire up the DQ542MA drivers. For something as large as you want, I would go with these rather than an all in one board (other than gecko) or the low amp CNC shield drivers. You could do a dual belted version to help eliminate belt stretch, but when I did the math, it was similar enough in price to buy the longer lead screws as it was to buy 2X the belt needed. I was also able to eliminate the need for pullies, but I had to buy extra shaft couplers (which are cheaper than pullies).
     
    #3 Giarc, Feb 12, 2017
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2017
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  4. Gordon Steeves

    Gordon Steeves Well-Known
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    Wow!! This sounds like a pretty ambitious undertaking, thanks :D
     
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  5. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    It is. That is what makes it fun. I started designing mine about a year and a half ago. Started building last March. Was cutting stuff by August, and continue to do so even though it technically isn't done yet. I am using it to cut the pieces I am making to finish it. Fun stuff. Of course, my fishing hobby has caused a lot of the delay. It is not my fault salmon taste so good.
     
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  6. Darin Ruley

    Darin Ruley Well-Known
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    I just completed my first ever CNC Router build. I built the ox machine using the plans on the Open build site, and parts from the open build Parts store. I did not use the Controller for sale in the parts store due to the fact it was out of stock. Instead I bought a 5 axis board from Amazon and 4 of the less expensive Drives on Amazon. All in all the control part was fairly easy to assemble. The Ox machine is a sturdy machine that works very well. I am more then happy with it so far. You would need to make some adjustments in the size of the X, and Y axis to fit your usage. I stuck to the Ox plans as listed. All it will take is a few pieces of V track and some timing belts to increase the machine size in the future. Once I get better at using it, I may do just that.
     
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