Welcome to Our Community

Some features disabled for guests. Register Today.

Want to build my first printer

Discussion in '3D printers' started by SamStainback, Mar 3, 2018.

  1. SamStainback

    Builder

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2018
    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    So as the title says, I want to build my first printer. I'm a software engineer with, I'd say, above 'average' mechanical/electrical skill but I'm not an expert. I was given a not-quite-working MakerBot 2x (dual extruder) printer from work. So I was thinking about cannibalizing that and building a new printer. But I have questions...

    From what I've read, it seems the CoreXY architecture is the way to go. I'm not super concerned with speed, but I would like good detail. There are lots of names used here for the different printers and I'm not sure what the differences are really, like C-bot and D-bot.

    I've found the D-bot build by spauda01 on Thingiverse that looks interesting. There are also some Hypercube designs I was looking at. But I don't know which would be a better option.

    It would be great if someone could point me in the right direction.
    Here are a few things I'd like in the design consideration:
    • 24V electronics. This is the setup for the MakerBot so I figured I could reuse most of it this way
    • 250mm cubed or thereabouts print volume
    • Easily enclosed
    • I think I'd like to keep the direct feed type extruder from the MakerBot.
     
  2. shotty

    shotty New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2018
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi Sam...
    I'm here 'cause I'm looking for hardware to build an Hypercube Evolution, project on Thingiverse, and my cube will be 350x350x650mm, so I suggest you to look bigger, differences about costs aren't so great...

    IMHO, better you follow a project like Hypercube Evo, already tested, also if you can mod it as you want, like me, that I wanna change rod movement with linear guides, more stiff and precise, and so on.

    Have a nice day!

    ;-Dan from Italy
     
  3. Kevon Ritter

    Kevon Ritter Master
    Builder

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2015
    Messages:
    359
    Likes Received:
    131
    I've been busting my butt trying to learn the different aspects of a core xy. The main focus for me has been the frame and type of linear motion.

    If you head over to the reprap forum, the more experienced guys pretty much destroy the idea of using linear shafts (and linear bearings) and printed parts. I've seen them opt for mgn9 linear rails instead. The reason for that is size. Once you start to get over a certain size, the stiffness of the unsupported shafts becomes a concern.

    With that said, I still opted to go for a Hypercube type of build. I redesigned the Evo for 2020 and tried to compact it a little. I chose 10mm rails for the Y, 8mm for the X, and 12mm for Z. Fast forward through more research...I started looking at vertical vs horizontal gantries. Right now I'm pulling horizontal gantry ideas from the (very elusive) Voron. By going horizontal, I'm hoping to compact the design even more, as well as open up different hotend cooling options. With the change, the size went up from a 200mm cube to 250x250x350mm (should be able to get much more on X and Y; the plate is 304x304 for reference). I'm also switching to 10mm for the X and using quad 12mm for Z.

    The other huge factor is moving mass. Apparently carbon tubes work well with the polymer (Igus) bearings. It also cuts weight to 10% or less of what an equivalent steel shaft would be. Anodized aluminum is another option, but is difficult to get in the correct size due to the metric/imperial conflict.

    Then there are other little details that are worth considering.
    - Think about how many frame parts you can get out of a single length of extrusion. Wasted extrusion is wasted money.
    - The bed can be heated from 12V, 24V, or even 110VAC.
    - How would you make your Z? There is cantilever or support from two sides (quad rail/shaft). If you are supporting from both sides, are you going to use two stepper motors, or a single with a belt connecting both sides. (I'm opting for the latter with a 9mm instead of a 6mm belt.) Don't forget about the lead on the screw.
    - Where are you mounting the electronics? My V2 is entire assembly that can be completely enclosed, even with a bowden tube.
    - Bowden or Direct?
    - a ton more
    - still a ton more that I'm still learning myself
    - aaaaaaand more

    My goal is to maximize space. The first model with an effective 200mm cube was 365x365x450mm with room for electronics underneath, but. The new design is 400x500x580 and holds EVERYTHING, and will still have a minimum print volume of 250x250x350.

    I'm another noob, but I hope you are able to pull something from that.
     

    Attached Files:

    #3 Kevon Ritter, Apr 28, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2018
  4. shotty

    shotty New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2018
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi Kevin, and welcome in the CoreXY nightmare... :nailbite: and, hoping for a clear english 'cause I'm italian, I wanna share mine with you...
    working on Hypercube basis me too, developing an hybrid one about 350x350x650mm volume (wip), cutting 3030 aluprofi at 800mm high. looking for a mgn12 linear rails solution on Y axis, and a gantry vertical style with a 2040 profi for X, and the open-rail system, finally sold also in Italy on openbuildsitalia, a really reliable and light solution for me.
    only one motor and belt sync for Z axis, to avoid bad threaded rods moves, and a diagonal gantry system for bed steering to spare space. plus, I'll use a rod support with bearing for Z threaded rods.
    about electronics, here I bought an ArduinoDUE (I'm italian!) a 32bit mobo, with a RuRamps, a fantastic project that's fully supported by MK4Duo team, a guaranty indeed. as drivers I found on Panucatt some drivers 2226 based, very interesting, almost custom made, you know... googling it seems thats Panucatt is the only who use that TMC chips...
    as heat bed, also I choose a 220V type, for 750W, with a solid state transistor to drive it. on printing line, always bowden for lightness and also effective with TPU, don't mind, with a little trick... ;)
    here some screenshots of wip project, hoping to be clear and inspire you for new solutions that you will share... I wanna hope...! :):):):)

    have a nice day!

    ;-Dan from Italy


    upload_2018-5-6_11-21-2.png upload_2018-5-6_11-20-20.png upload_2018-5-6_11-25-32.png upload_2018-5-6_11-26-44.png upload_2018-5-6_11-52-45.png
     
    #4 shotty, May 6, 2018
    Last edited: May 6, 2018

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice