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Discussion in '3D printers' started by Keith Davis, Jul 7, 2019.
A posi-drive leveling printer in 300x300x380mm format that easily breaks down for suitcase size shipping.
Keith Davis published a new build:
Read more about this build...
Keith, in your BOM pdf there is an error. If you try the link for "Build plate 12x24x3/16 (1/2)" you get an Amazon listing for wheels.
Thanks for the heads up.
That should read 12x24x3/16 (3/16) and be https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF4AELE
I'm going through the BOM to update it. I just finished an 81 step tutorial on building one and saw a number of things to add to the BOM.
The tutorial is at Build VulcanPro
I was going to use your extruder build that you've posted a year ago or so but I think I've read that you don't think it's the cat's meow, correct?
There is no gain with that belt driven design. It weighs the same as my regular, simple, design 3dwrx :: Upgrade Your Printer and does not produce any advancement. And it's put together is like being married to a raccoon.
I was initially looking at your build as an idea of putting a V-Slot frame around my 5 year old Makerfarm 10" Prusa i3v, but after looking at your BOM & looking at the parts I already have it might be worth my while to build this machine. I have been considering getting one of the 12" Tevo or Creality machines, but I don't like the Bowden setup & would probably want to change a few other things. If I build this, I probably won't start on it for a few months & maybe wait for black Friday sales in November.
Have you looked at sourcing some alternatives to the openbuilds parts from aliexpress? You can get a 10 pack of the Xtreme Mini V Wheels less bearings for $4.16. You can also get them with bearings for a little bit more, but I would probably get the better bearings from openbuilds. Those wheels are probably not as good of quality as openbuilds, but would be worth trying for that price. There are several places on there that sell these & I am not sure which is the best one.
You can also get the 6 - T Joining plates for $10.67 (I added the shipping into the price).
Yes I have looked at other sources. In particular the wheels and T Join plates. I found T Join plates with black anodizing on Amazon for a reasonable price. I actually did the drawing images showing clear anodized because black T Join plates are so hard to find. Also, there are numerous v-wheel providers on Amazon with good prices. About half of them use the wrong thickness shim between bearings and that ruins the wheel, especially on the mini-v-wheels. Have to read the reviews to find the ones that are OK. I imagine the same problem exists on Aliexpress. Crazy that a Chinese manufacturer will tool up for a 1/2 million run and not bother to assemble and see if the parts work together.
Most of the reviews on that site don't really give you much info & I suspect most are like the ones you mentioned on Amazon. Probably would be better to stick with known good wheels from openbuilds. I see the moderator removed my links. I will keep that in mind for future postings & not include links from China sites.
Hi Keith. I really like this build and am planning on building one but have a couple questions.
1) What springs are being used for the heatbed?
2) In one of the pictures of the Vulcan Pro it shows a case for a 128x64 display. Can you provide the files for that?
3) Out of curiosity is there a reason why the bottom screw blocks don't have a bearing?
4) I could be measuring something wrong in Sketchup, but I am getting different distances from the 2040 uprights to the center holes in the z screw blocks for the top (16.5mm) and bottom (15mm). That would make the leadscrew not parallel with the 2040 uprights. Can you confirm if I am missing something?
5) How does the X Axis belt attach to the X Carriage?
6) Is there an STL file for the X Axis Carriage?
1) in my drawings I use transparent tubes to denote springs (I wish I could find some spongy tubing for that) They are just standard bed springs 8 x 4.5mm
3) There is no need for a bearing. The bottom bracket is there just to provide support against bending the screw if the printer gets lifted by grabbing the 20x40s below the X axis.
4) You are correct. The bottom bracket hole has been changed to 16.5mm in the assembly, skp & stl zips.
5) With two M4x20mm screws. The belt ends wrap around each screw and the loops are are secured with a zip tie. The assembled skp now shows those two screws threaded into the x-carriage
6) x-carriage.skp & x-carriage.stl are now in the parts zips
I was wondering if you could share the skp file for the fan assembly mount and if you could share some photos of the actual project built, that would be awesome.
Looks like the entire extruder and fan is missing from the SKP & STL zips. I've added them now.
I built this and decided to modify it. Still working on the modification, so there wont be a build photo of this version as it has now been cannibalized.
Can you validate your x-carriage.stl ? I thin that somehow you have a part of the mesh that is messed up. If you look at the "bottom" flat side that I am printing on my bed it seem to be missing features. ie like somehow a triangle section of the mesh is messed up. Thanks for posting your design. I have not had issues printing any other parts.
When attaching the Tee plates to the X Axis extrusion, do you just use one screw on each end that you can get at? Or I was wondering if you did that, then unscrew the Tee plates, and add another 2 screws to each Tee plate to extrusion?