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Discussion in '3D printers' started by jjcolletta, Dec 14, 2015.
Discussion in '3D printers' started by jjcolletta, Dec 14, 2015.
Building upon the great work done by Marshall Peck and others. I have started a new build.
jjcolletta published a new build:
Read more about this build...
Looking good jjcolletta!
Im building this design as well so im excited to follw your build...
I have a couple questions for you.
1- In your build photo of the z motor mount, it looks like the leadscrew lock collar is below the motor mount. Should it be on top of the plate to support the weight of the gantry? Possibly with a thrust bearing to bear the load?
2- Looks like you maybe getting ready to run a bowden extruder. If I saw that correctly, what is the reason to run it verses a direct drive?
Finally...what size build plate are you planning? I was going to run a 400mm x 400mm aluminium bed with a silicon heater pad. Im a bit concerned with the weight though....any thoughts?
Thanks for sharing your build!
Good catch on the locking collar for the lead screws. I lean more electrical/software than mechanical and something didn't look right to me.
I am running a bowden because my current home brewed printer has one and I like not having the motor mass moving on the axis. I have no problems with it so I will move it to the new printer shortly. (After fixing the Z-Axis). Also this configuration has less wires moving around.
As far as the build plate. I have a left over 270 x 350 x 8 mm piece of acrylic material that I will start with. It is very flat and PLA retention is very good. I am using a smaller piece on my current system. I will occasionally wipe it with a cotton ball and a little nail polish remover but that is all. I have not seen the need for a heat plate up to this point. Weight can be a problem depending on the speeds you want to run. I have not weighed my plate yet.
Thanks for the comments/questions. Now off to fix my Z-axis
I'm building this 3D printer. Do you know witch extruder I can use with it ? I need direct extruder, no bowden extruder and I'd like to use E3D V6 hot end.
I'm using Duet controller with PanelDue and mini Z probe for this printer. I'll post pictures and informations soon.
Im going to use what im using now which is the itty bitty belted extruder by clough42.
Its very light weight and quiet. There are several brackets that will allow you to mount it or just about any extruder to the extrusion or to the rail plate itself.
Sorry I cannot comment on a direct extruder. I do love my E3D V6 hot end but follow the assembly instructions exactly. I struggled with it in my excitement to get it working and missed a step or two.
Printing sounds real smooth.
Bowden mount looks good. Been meaning to try that.
Thanks it is printing pretty well. I am working on the bed leveling. The springs and nuts I used are not playing well together.
Did you twist your x-axis belt on purpose? If so, why? Like the build and it's what I'm working toward (gotta save for parts per the missus). On the heated bed, it's fine to not have a heated bed for PLA. But if you want to print with anything else, you really need the heated bed. I've also found better PLA prints with a heated bed over non-heated.
I originally twisted the belts based on Marshall Peck's write up. I believe it was to take some vibrations out of the system. I removed the twists accidently when adjusting the plates and re-running the belts. I am not sure I will put them back.
I was not having any issue running PLA without a heated bed. I just cleaned the surface with finger nail polish occasionally. I even had some prints stick so hard I broke them when removing them. That being said I live in Orlando and normally hot and sweaty is the norm except this weekend. It cooled way off and I did have some sticking issues. Oh, what a fun hobby it is.
Orlando?!!!!....cooled off?!!... what, did it cool down to 60?
Woke up Saturday morning to a dead battery in my truck do to a 3 degree overnight low! Yes...thats Fahrenheit!
Good news is its only 15% relative humidity now so my filament is printing real nice.
Im building this same printer...If its not considered hijacking, Ill post some pics and ideas I have had here for you and others to see. Dont really want to start my own build thread.
Oh no not 60, almost 50. I am originally from Detroit so the cooler weather is awesome! I remember the 3 degree days.
Build away, I used Marshall's design as my starting point. I would love to see what you are doing.
What is advantage with Smoothieboard ? I've just finished hardware build and I have to put controller in place. I have Ramps 1.4, Smoothieboard, Duet 0.6 and 0.85, Megatronix 2.0 in stock. I wanted to use Duet. this controller has a very nice Web interface and TFT touch screen.
I picked the Smoothieboard because I did not want to deal with the firmware. I really liked the advantage of just configuring a text file and then resetting the board. If I want to turn a feature on/off I just edit the config file. Also in reading the documents on the webpage and reviewing the forums I liked the information supplied.
Ah ok I understand. I like Duet controller too for this feature. I just need to edit config.g file and reset the board.
Looks really nice. I have a question for you about the wheel positioning on X axis gantry plate. I have note that the top pair of wheels connected further apart compared to the bottom pair. What was the reason for it? Did you do the same Z axis.?
If memory serves I believe this was done because of the holes in the plates. I have the eccentric spacers on the bottom so they fit in the larger holes. On the top the wheels without normal spacers i wanted to use the smaller holes. I am more electrical than mechanical so if the screw fits that is where it goes. Sorry it just seemed the way to do it.
Thanks for looking..
Thanks for clarifying. I thought it was due to some restrictions of mounting the 2020 on the front plate. I like the way you have centered the belt on Y axis. Do you mind publishing the STL files for motor mount and the mount the for the idler? Did you use printed rod plate for X axis to mount the motor? Or metal one purchased from Openbuild?
I should have the slt files, it has been so hot in Florida that I have not done much on my printer this summer. Give me a few days to track them down.
Thanks, in advance.
If anyone comes here I have updated the printer by going from a dual to a signal z-axis. My z-axis was not staying horizontal.
Is the build area 300X300mm ?
No, it is closer to 250x250 mostly because I mis calculated some dimensions. I have some interference's with the z-axis shafts at the limits to get a full 300mm. I can pull some dimensions if you need.
That would be great!
It could easily be 300x300 but I have not optimized the build for that. The acrylic plate was bought from a resale shop and just fit. Using the single motor for the z-axis was the best modification I made.
Z-Axis Shaft Distance ==> 498mm
Interior distance between ==> 627mm
Print Bed Acrylic ==> 368mm x 269mm
Y-Axis Rail ==> 670mm
Top of the bed to bottom of top rail ==> 627mm
Thanks for the measurements. I think I am going to move the Z axis to the outside of each end. Someone else did it and I liked it.
Let me know I would love to see how it turns out.