Welcome to Our Community

Some features disabled for guests. Register Today.

TrueUP Glide

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Keith Davis, Sep 9, 2016.

  1. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
    Builder

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
    Messages:
    500
    Likes Received:
    358
    You're welcome!

    Remember - we'll want pics here from the MRRF too!
     
  2. boutrous

    boutrous New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2014
    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    5
  3. Reanimator2k

    Builder

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2016
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hello Keith.
    Very liked your build. I want to replace my Wanhao i3 with it, but i need a 300x300x300mm build volume.
    Have some troubles to correct your BOM for this volume. And not any parts are available for me.
    Don't have any skills to edit STL, but i think i can do some export and import to get them to Fusion 360. Only starting to learn Fusion 360. Mechanical skills are not so good as well.
    Can you help me with a few things:
    1. Can you help me with drawing a Y-carriage (DXF i think, to give it to CNC workshop) to use it with 328x328 MK2A Heat Bed. And what distance i need between Y Extrusions and holes for mini V-wheels mounting?
    2. I don't have any chance to get 20x60 (20x20 and 20x40 are available) V-Slot, but i can get 20x80 with this dimensions http://i.imgur.com/8svWsZu.jpg. The inner hole diameter incompatible to tap m5 thread and it 20mm taller. Can you help me to build TrueUP with it, what i need to change in BOM and printed parts?
    3. Don't have GT2 closed loop belts that you use, but have two 610mm and three 852mm closed loop GT2 belts. What can i change (and how) in your design to use them?
    I have all other hardware, but i want to use e3d Titan extruder, because i have it :) I think i can edit extruder carriage to use it.
    4. What cuts of V-Slot Extrusion i need to make to achieve 300x300x300 print volume (with 20x80 instead of 20x60)?
    Also i added a DIN numbers to a part of your BOM, are they correct for your build?
    5mm Fender Washer 8,00 DIN 9021
    5mm Precision Shim 8,00 DIN 988
    8mm Shim Washers 2,00 DIN 988
    8mm x 410mm stainless steel threaded rod 2,00 TR 08 or DIN 975 (not a trapezoidal thread)?
    M3 10mm screws 13,00 DIN 7984
    M3 12mm screws 6,00 DIN 7984
    M3 15mm screws 9,00 DIN 7984
    M3 20mm screws 8,00 DIN 7984
    M3 25mm screws 1,00 DIN 7984
    M3 30mm screws 2,00 DIN 7984
    M3 50mm screw 1,00 DIN 7984
    M3 8mm screws 4,00 DIN 7984
    M3 nut 6,00 DIN 934
    M3 nylon lock nuts 13,00 DIN 985
    M4 x 10mm set screw 4,00 DIN 533
    M4 x 25mm screw 4,00 DIN 7984
    M5 Nuts 3,00 DIN 934
    M5 x 8mm screws 2,00 DIN 7984
    M5 x 10mm screws 42,00 DIN 7984
    M5 x 15mm screws 16,00 DIN 7984
    M5 x 20mm screws 7,00 DIN 7984
    M5 x 30mm screws 3,00 DIN 7984
    M5 x 25mm screws 11,00 DIN 7984
    M5 x 40mm screws 2,00 DIN 7984
    M5 x 6mm screws 2,00 DIN 7984
    M8 acorn nuts 2,00 DIN 934
    M8 Nylon Nuts 2,00 DIN 985

    Thanks in advance for any help and sorry for my bad English.
     
    #123 Reanimator2k, Mar 19, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2017
  4. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
    Builder

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
    Messages:
    500
    Likes Received:
    358
    To increase the Y and X axis, just add the extra to the lengths of the Y and X extrusions. You want a 300mm Y axis, add 100mm to length of the Y extrusions. Same for the X axis and the center frame, add 100mm to length. On the Y axis, note that there are two holes in the Y extrusions for bolting them to the top slot of the center frame extrusion - add 50mm to the front of the Y extrusion and 50mm to the back.

    The width between Y extrusions will remain unchanged, and the holes in the build plate for wheels will remain unchanged. I've built 300x300 machines using those same sizes.

    Use the 20x40 instead of 20x60. The bottom 20mm of a 20x60 does not get anything bolted to is, so it does not really need to be there. But you do need the height. So, bolt the 20x20 uprights so their bottoms extend 20mm below the 20x40 and bolt the uprights to the two center holes of the 20x40 (instead of top and bottom centers of a 20x60). The top of the 20x40 will then be the same height as the 20x60 and everything else should fit.

    The closed loop belts for X and Y are not essential. You can splice where the X joins the X carriage and the Y ties to the build plate anchor. BUT, a closed loop belt is essential for the Z axis since the belt rotates multiple times. Your 852 is a bit too long, but usable. The extra length can be taken up by adding an idler setup on the other side of the rear. The 200x200 design uses a 610, so add 200mm to that is 810, so we only need to take up 42mm slack. That would require 2 screws and drop-in nuts for mounting and 3 idlers like the one next to the Z motor to add a extra idler setup like the white one below.


    [​IMG]

    Later tonight I'll be publishing the Kit version of the TrueUp as a separate project. You should use the design and files on that publish. I changed a number of printed parts for easier printing (no nylon printing, no over sized box plates, etc) and it's designed to be easier to assemble. This conversation thread will continue here for those who have built, or are building, with this version. But I recommend any new builds to be from the Kit design. The STL for that white extra idler bracket above can be downloaded here http://3dwrx.com/TrueUp/x-extra-idler.zip
     
    Reanimator2k likes this.
  5. Reanimator2k

    Builder

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2016
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Am i need to add 200mm to the 20x40 (plus 20x20) extrusion length(100 for the 300x300x300 design and extra 100 to fit the belt length)?

    Thanks, will wait for the link. And many thanks for the help!
     
  6. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
    Builder

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
    Messages:
    500
    Likes Received:
    358
    Consider: A 100mm long extrusion requires a 200mm long close looped belt - the belt get measured both directions, the extrusion only one. Adding 100 mm to the 20x40mm frame will need an additional 200mm of closed loop belt.

    Last night I postponed publishing the new version since some people are at the Midwest RepRap Festival in Indiana this weekend. I didn't want the notice in their inbox buried. But I guess I can just re-publish on Tues. So..... I just now published it.
    TrueUp Kit Version
     
    Reanimator2k likes this.
  7. Reanimator2k

    Builder

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2016
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Understood now, thank you.

    There are link to skp files, but i changed it to http://3dwrx.com/TrueUp/kit-stl.zip and downloaded new stl files, thank You.
     
  8. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
    Builder

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
    Messages:
    500
    Likes Received:
    358
    Thanks for letting me know about the URL typo. :thumbsup: Fixed it.
     
  9. boutrous

    boutrous New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2014
    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    5
    https://goo.gl/photos/D5mYqtNCDM98XxUy9

    Above link will lead to pics and such from the 2017 MRRF in Goshen. Pics will update through the weekend. I'll look to get lots of machine pics.

    With the new STL's posted, I'll start printing a set for a second TrueUp build this weekend ;-)
     
  10. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
    Builder

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
    Messages:
    500
    Likes Received:
    358
    Thanks for that link Gary. From the pic I already have questions about your build. I'll get with you next week when you're home. Enjoy!
     
  11. jkmcc13

    jkmcc13 New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2015
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    1
    Has anyone tried tapping m8 threads into the glide bodies for the z screws instead of using nylon nuts? Whether it be abs,pla,nylon glide bodies.

    Trying to avoid having to buy 100 nylon nuts haha
     
  12. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
    Builder

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
    Messages:
    500
    Likes Received:
    358
    Two advantages of the nylon nut 1) nylon is self-lubricating, pla and abs will wear over time 2) nylon is an elastic polymer, the treads can deform enough to guarantee no backlash for this Z application. Abs is also an elastic polymer and should "grip" the rod like nylon does.

    What you could do, is print a nut out of abs, the same dimension, thread it, and use it instead of the nylon nut. That way if you get wear, print a replacement and replace it.
     
  13. jkmcc13

    jkmcc13 New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2015
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    1
    Perfect, that was kinda my plan, as far as printing abs and tapping it. Are we talking a lot more wear on abs than nylon? I'll just make sure I have a few on hand. Thanks.
     
  14. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
    Builder

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
    Messages:
    500
    Likes Received:
    358
    I've not tried abs, but years ago i did a Z screw through pla and was surprised by how quickly I was getting backlash. By quickly I mean, I generally was running a printer 15-20 hrs a day, it took a few weeks.
     
    jkmcc13 likes this.
  15. Lathanael

    Lathanael New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2016
    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    How stiff is the whole gantry setup and X-axis in your experience?

    I am thinking of building a 300 x 300 setup(height not yet determined) with dual extrusion via independent print heads/x-axis. I'd also like to include an exchangeable mount on one head for a small light ~100W spindle for pcb milling(and maybe light wood, depending on stiffness). Will have to play around in CAD with your design and maybe add some 45° reinforcement T-Slot extrusion on the outer perimeter which i could also use to build a chamber around the whole printer.
     
  16. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
    Builder

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
    Messages:
    500
    Likes Received:
    358
    If you are thinking of also milling, here's how I would beef things up: 40x40 extrusions

    The bottom frame (20x60) does not need to be 60 high as nothing mounts to the bottom 20. Just extend the two uprights 20 mm below the bottom of a 40 and you still have room for mounting controls and psu below the build plate. That said, for a beefed up version, use a 40x40 extrusion for that piece.

    The two upright (Z axis) sides are bolted directly to the bottom frame, no brackets. Try tearing them apart or out of alignment, you'll need to run over it with a truck. Very solid. The top extrusion is really just up there for a handle. The ones in my shop do not have, or need, that top rail, it does not square the uprights. That is done by drilling access holes for hex wrench through the center of the upright's v-slot. On a beefed up model, I'd also use 40x40 for the uprights to eliminate any vibration. To attach the uprights, the access holes would have to go through both channels. So, instead of just bolting the inner v-slot to the bottom frame piece, I'd use 45mm M5 screws with an endcap at the head to cinch that 40x40 from the outside. Using a 40x40 upright would of course require re-sizing the glide brackets for dual glide bushings.

    The X axis, I'd change up to a 20x40 and use a metal plate for the wheels. For milling, I'd opt for the large wheels instead of mini's.
     
  17. Lathanael

    Lathanael New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2016
    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    With 40x40 on the upright axis i would have to redesign the whole glide part(as you said) making it significantly bigger and probably get a lot more drag this way. I'd like to avoid that for now. As i said the milling would be just an addition to the core function of the 3d printer. Mainly PCBs and maybe plywood/mdf and alike. No maple or other harder types of wood.

    €dit: The 20x40 with bigger wheels might be an idea though. The redesign wouldn't be as massive.
     
  18. loglow

    loglow New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    2
    This eBay listing looks promising: Metric Black Nylon Hexagonal/Hex Nut, M2 M2.5 M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 M12..... | eBay

    I usually see items arrive in 5-8 business days via ePacket from China, but it can vary. At least it's usually free!

    Also, Keith's latest revisions look to use 6x M8 nuts per build, so buying 10 seems appropriate.
     
  19. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
    Staff Member Moderator Builder Resident Builder

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2015
    Messages:
    2,135
    Likes Received:
    1,151
    Are they the right thread? I did not see where it stated if they were M8 coarse (1.25 pitch) or fine (1 pitch). They are most likely the coarse (1.25). But a person could order them first then get the corresponding threaded rod.
     
  20. loglow

    loglow New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    2
    Well, I ordered some, so I'll let you know!
     
  21. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
    Builder

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
    Messages:
    500
    Likes Received:
    358
    If you use course thread M8 the pitch is 1.25mm per revolution - the Z motor needs 16T pulley and Z screws need 20T pulleys to get 1mm per motor rotation
    If you use fine thread M8 the pitch is 1mm per revolution - the Z motor and Z screws would need matching pulleys to get 1mm per motor rotation
    Either way, achieving 1mm per motor rotation is essential for achieving layer consistency by removing microstepping inaccuracy.
     
  22. jkmcc13

    jkmcc13 New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2015
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    1
  23. loglow

    loglow New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    2
    You're welcome!

    Thought I'd mention here that I'm building a TrueUp Glide, but with some modifications, mostly that I'm using the new Bondtech BMG extruder (BMG Extruder - Bondtech AB) which involved creating a new mount, as well as major modifications to the X Carriage and a new Print Fan Top mount (the print fan is now located to the left of the extruder). I've also tweaked many of the printed parts and combined several of them (eg. the Y Motor Mount and the Y Limit Switch Mount).

    The other big change is that I'm integrating a Raspberry Pi 3 Model B (the one with built-in wifi) into the control box since there seems to be just enough room for it (with the original control box dimensions, not the new smaller revised-for-the-kit control box dimensions). This way the printer can run its own OctoPrint server for itself and/or several other nearby printers. A short external USB A-to-B cable will connect the MKS Gen to the RPi. Hoping to power the RPi with a jumper from the MKS Gen's 5V headers to the RPi's GPIO pins 4 & 6, as long as it can provide enough current.

    If there's interest in any of my source files or BOM, I'd be happy to share them.

    tug_overall.png extruder_assembly.png control_box.png extruder_parts.png
     
  24. Lathanael

    Lathanael New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2016
    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    @Keith Davis

    Do you still use 0.9° motors on your machines and is there any benefit in doing so?
     
  25. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
    Builder

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2014
    Messages:
    412
    Likes Received:
    109
    I would love the print files for the X carriage stuff, usinf the new Bendtech extruder. Heck, list thrm all! Nice work.
     
  26. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
    Builder

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
    Messages:
    500
    Likes Received:
    358
    No benefit. I'm using 1.8 motors.
     
  27. loglow

    loglow New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    2
    Thanks. Right now I'm only going to post my extruder/hotend assembly files (see attachment) because I'm still making some small revisions to other things. I haven't tested the modified X Belt Keeper yet, but it should hook into the teeth of the belt instead of just crushing it. Here's a question: Should these parts be printed in something with higher temperature tolerance than PLA, or does that not matter?
     

    Attached Files:

  28. loglow

    loglow New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    2
    I have a question regarding cable routing on this build: Why are there two different routing paths to the MKS Gen board? There's the underneath-the-Y-axis path and the separate through-the-crossover-cover-and-past-the-PSU path. Why not just route all the wires (aside from the X axis bundle) through the central channel under the Y axis? That would eliminate the crossover cover part entirely. Maybe I'm missing something though since I haven't completed the build yet.
     
  29. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
    Builder

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
    Messages:
    500
    Likes Received:
    358
    You're missing the experience of putting one together - once the build plate is mounted, it is extremely hard to snake all of the rear wiring down that center channel and insert the cover over the wires.
     
  30. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
    Builder

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
    Messages:
    500
    Likes Received:
    358
    PLA should be fine, the bondtech is removing the heat before it gets close to the mount.
    The belt keeper teeth are a nice touch, but unnecessary, even a nema 23 pulling against an obstruction on the X axis would not have power enough to slide the belt once it's tightened.

    Once you have tested this, be sure to put the mod on Thingiverse.
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice