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TrueUp Bold

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Keith Davis, Sep 23, 2017.

  1. Twopan

    Twopan New
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    Hi Keith, I also found the same problem on z-axis tops.stl , z-axis brackets.stl and z-axis bottoms.stl. Like I said I can fix mine just wanted you to know.

    Jim
     
  2. mbunjes

    mbunjes New
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    Hi Keith, love your design and I'd like to build a 200 x 300 bed version. I have a question :
    Is there a way two split up at least the y-center.stl so I can print it on my 220 x 220 buildplate ?
    Thanks in advance.
     
    martin thompson likes this.
  3. mbunjes

    mbunjes New
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    Never mind, I found out how to do it.
     
  4. martin thompson

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    In the final stages of my build
     
  5. raspber

    raspber New
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    Just figured out how to extract out of SketchUp

    mine will be for a plate of 250x250
    the more I look at this printer the more I like it a lot







    _______________________________________________________________________________________________
    My stepper motor site:skysmotor.com
     
  6. Germoe Joseph

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    I'm building 2 TrueUp Bold printers following your instructions. I have a question about the bed and in particular, how the heated plate and glass are kept flat.

    The bed is 300mm and it appears from the instructions that the plate and glass are only supported on the corners. This leaves the entire center of the plate unsupported.

    How is the bed kept perfectly flat? I seem to be missing how the middle of the bed is supported.
     
  7. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    If you use an aluminum bed, 3mm thick, you will have no problem, you'd need a hammer to bend it. If you use a pcb, use strong clips and 1/8 mirror, the mirror cannot bend and if the clips are on the corners it really doesn't matter if there is a sag in the pcb. I've used both on a 300m bed.
     
  8. Twopan

    Twopan New
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    Hi Keith, It's been a long time but everything is coming together rather nicely. 300mm x 300mm x 500mm I have a question about the Z screw going through the bottom brackets.

    In my mind from top to bottom through the bracket: top lock collar , top recessed bearing, bracket , bottom recessed bearing, bottom lock collar, pulley.

    This is how it looks to me in the sketchup. So I'm not sure where the 8mm washer needs to go as the lock collars should only be engaging the inner race of the bearings.

    I understand the need for the washer if the pulley is being used as a replacement for the lock collar. Then it would appear to be from the top:

    Top lock collar, top recessed bearing, bracket, bottom recessed bearing, 8mm washer, pulley.

    If either of these is acceptable I'll probably go with the bottom lock collar then I don't need to use the pulley for anything other than it's job.

    Sorry for making this more complicated then it needs to be, just want to get it right.
     
  9. Rehcia

    Rehcia New
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    Has anyone other than Keith completed this build?
    I'm thinking about stating this and wanted to see if anybody had any comments +/- for their builds.
     
  10. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Quite honestly Rehcia, I recommend buying a Creality CR10-s. They are 300x300x400. I have an upgrade kit on my website for the CR-10s that syncs the two Z axis screws with a timing belt so you can disconnect one of the Z motors and eliminate leveling problems. 3dwrx.com. You cannot build a TrueUp bold for the same price and the CR-10s is a well built printer.
     
  11. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    The washer right above the pulley is to force the pulley low enough to be the same level as the idler bearing and motor pulley.
     
  12. Rehcia

    Rehcia New
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    I probably will eventually buy a new one, but I have pretty much all the pieces laying around from various other projects anyway.
    I have a Tevo as well, so printing the needed parts won't be an issue. Just an interesting project ...

    I think the CR-10s is too big for my needs. I rarely print anything that big.
     
    #42 Rehcia, May 10, 2019
    Last edited: May 10, 2019
  13. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Which Tevo do you have?
    Why would you want to build the bold version of TrueUp?
     
  14. Rehcia

    Rehcia New
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    It started out as a Tarantula, but little is left of the original. Upgraded to dual Y rods w/ AL bed and dual Z. Also added a BLTouch.
    Why not the Bold? It's looks well thought out and sturdy. I was actually going to incorporate a few features of the LZ into the Bold.
    Do you recommend the LZ instead?

    ...I think I'm going to do the LZ

    I was just looking at the CR-10s Pro, perhaps I'll get this.
     
    #44 Rehcia, May 13, 2019
    Last edited: May 13, 2019
  15. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    The Bold was built special order. A one-of-a-kind.

    I definitely recommend the LZ over the Bold. I have over 3,000 hrs on the one I have in my shop.

    What is "Pro" about the CR-10s Pro that the CR-10s doesn't have?
     

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