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OpenBuilds OX CNC Machine

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Mark Carew, Dec 15, 2013.

  1. KerryH

    KerryH New
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    I wouldn't just make it solid 1/2", I figured it would get some pockets and maybe even reliefs cut.
     
  2. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
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    In that case then giver bud!
    I say better off using it rather then it sitting purty ;)
     
    KerryH likes this.
  3. BinaryConstruct

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    What did you use for the fill material? It is defiantly a nice (and functional) touch.

    Finally got end stops and motion test/calibration. Next is cutting test. Anyone have any advice on feed rates for 6061 aluminum with 1/8" endmills?
     
  4. mw.design

    mw.design New
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  5. BinaryConstruct

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    I am using the grblShield v5 with an Arduino Uno.

    I have a few RepRaps, so I started with a Sanguinololu but I switched to the grblShield. Overall I'm happy with the grblShield, the Sanguinololu will go back to a RepRap.

    Here are some opinions I have about the two boards:
    • Connections
      • Sanguinololu: has quick disconnect plugs for everything - awesome
      • grblShield: has screw terminals for steppers and solder holes for limits, inputs and spindle control. This takes a lot longer if you want to move things around, I definitely recommend getting some headers or wiring your electronics case with disconnects.
    • Firmware
      • Sanguinololu: lots of options, teacup, marlin, etc. but all mostly targeted toward 3d printing. Most require you to recompile to modify settings.
      • grbl: This firmware is very solid. Smooth motion, has all the g-code commands you will need for milling/cutting. The settings can be adjusted on the fly without recompiling, which makes setup and calibration much faster.
    • Price:
      • grblShield is a little less expensive, even more so if you already have an Arduino
        • Compatible with Arduinos 328p, the 32U4 series are NOT compatible
    If you plan on doing more than 3-axis you can look into TinyG. Of course there are other options, such as SmoothieBoard, a few BeagleBone capes, RAMPS, RAMBo, RUMBa. The two I reviewed are the least expensive that still have everything you would need for a 3-axis machine.

    Good luck on your decision!
     
    #845 BinaryConstruct, May 31, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2014
    Juan Alonso and Mark Carew like this.
  6. mw.design

    mw.design New
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    Cheers, I ended up getting the grblShield V5 I hope it has enough drive for the nema 23's.
     
  7. brjig

    brjig New
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    Yes and No, I have asked the same question in another board, and the response was it all depends on the amp and volt requirements, there are some motors that can go with the grbl sheild and will run fine, but there are others that have a higher amp requirments with the grbl shield cant provide.

    Thats what I gathered, im not an electronics person, im not too ssure if thats true, but im sure if you get the motors from open builds your fine, but if you are going with something more heavy duty, you may run into power issues.

    Im sure someone can give a better explanation
     
  8. BinaryConstruct

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    I'm using these http://www.kelinginc.net/KL23H51-24-8B.pdf 156 oz-in motors, wired bipolar series, so 3.6 ohms/phase. My motor power supply is 24v.

    Even on the Y axis where the driver is pushing two parallel motors (effective 1.8 ohms/phase) it is fine. However, I am using some descent sized heatsinks and a fan on the stepper drivers. Technically this could exceed the 2.5 A/coil, but rarely will your motors on the Y be running with full dc power through the coils. The heatsinks and fan give you some flexibility and the drivers will perform much better with cooling.

    I'll be sure and let everyone know if I manage to burn up anything. I have pushed lots of stepper drivers quite hard, and the only time I've actually damaged one was when a cable came loose under full load and was shorting.
     
    #848 BinaryConstruct, Jun 1, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2014
  9. Chris Laidlaw

    Chris Laidlaw Well-Known
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    It depends on the tool material, number of flutes and the rpm of your spindle. for carbide 2 flute at 3500 it is 7 ipm.
     
  10. dddman

    dddman Journeyman
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    Does any of you have pictures of your limit switch emplacements?
     
  11. dddman

    dddman Journeyman
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    I made a v-slot compatible limit switch holder with my 3D printer, it fits for the xmin-xmax-ymin-ymax axis.
     

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  12. BinaryConstruct

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    I did the same and made a case suited to the 20x40 Vslot on the back of the gantry.
    gshieldcase.jpg limit_switches.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    #852 BinaryConstruct, Jun 1, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2014
  13. dddman

    dddman Journeyman
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    #853 dddman, Jun 1, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2014
  14. GrandpawB

    GrandpawB Well-Known
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    Ok guys, what am I doing wrong? I made a simple sign in VCarve Pro. Everything looks good so far. I saved it to my toolpaths file. Post processor is Mach3 inches. I open mach3 and load my sign file. All the Gcode is listed. I start my OX with the Vbit zeroed right at the top edge of the wood and centered. I start to carve my sign but the Z axis raises all the way up plus it wants to go farther. I expected it to go negitive .250 and start carving. Any ideas on whats not set right? In testing, the Z axis seems to know the difference between pos. and neg.:banghead:
     
  15. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    Hi @GrandpawB ,

    I assume you have your Z axis configured correctly with Z+ going up (away from the work) and Z- going downwards (towards the work).

    This is just a guess...
    Look at your Material Setup in VCarvePro - in particular Home / Start Position and set the Z dimension you require for obstacle clearance rather than using the default. ;)

    Tweakie.
     
  16. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
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    I would also suggest if all software settings are correct you should check the motor phases are correct "simply reverse them" to change direction ;)
     
  17. GrandpawB

    GrandpawB Well-Known
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    Yes, they are configured correctly. It seemed to work fine when I tried the Mach3 sample Roadrunner file. I will go back to the Material Setup and try your suggestion. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks. :)
     
  18. Phillikl

    Phillikl New
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    Not sure with Vcarve, but in CAMBAM if you do not set material thickness you have to cut to a negative thickness.
     
  19. brjig

    brjig New
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    Sorry, let me get this straight.
    -You do all your design and export
    -plug it into mach 3
    -push start
    -Z axis keeps going up without stopping?

    -Is your mach3 set up in inches or mm?

    -Check your toolpath setting, the z-clearance may be set to high
    this can be the case, you can be working in mm and export to inches, and it doesnt convert correctly. (you think its going 15mm but its actually seeing 15 inches)
    The zero position of the workpiece may be off (I have made that mistake), what may be top-right in vcarve, can be bottom left on the machine.

    -Another thing can be, is that did you import a model and work of that, or bring in a dwg file?
    When you bring in a model, the orientation may have been wrong, or the zero may have been at the bottom of the model instead of the top

    eg.


    |--- |
    |__|
    ||
    ________________
    _____
    | |
    |_____|

    is this how your zero is, above the workpeice?
    OR

    |---|
    |__|
    ||
    ______
    | |
    |______|
    ______________________


    (Poor quality router and workpeice)

    or does it thing the zero is at the bottom of the object.

    if its second, then the machine wants to starts not only going higher in clearance, but heigher than the model height to start carving.


    I mean there are alot of possibilities as to what it is. If its not super secret private work, you can post it and we can take a look.
    or go through the motion again of setting up tool paths and look at every box and check to make sure its all correct.
     
  20. GrandpawB

    GrandpawB Well-Known
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  21. brjig

    brjig New
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    open so when you create a toolpath, you select either pocket or profile or drill or V-bit, they all usually have the same setting to play around with.
    -from there you select depth you want it to cut
    -then you select your tool and can edit it, (Diameter, Size Speed and such)
    -then you can create tabs for the file (3d tabs or regular tabs), corners and so on

    Next comes the Zheight or clearance. This is safety, you can tell it how high you want it to go for safety (above the material zero), and how low you want it to plunge
    so you can tell it to go up 5 inches above zero and then plunge down 4.5 inches and just jog the rest of the way down. before it goes past to zero.

    maybe its here that you have set it up a really high number.

    for me, the default is 15, but i work in mm so its fine for me,
    maybe for you its default 15 also, but since its inches its going up 15 inches which you dont have (I would guess you dont).

    Take a look at that.

    I dont have the program here in front of me to check the right word, but take a look at the clearance area of the toolpath.
     
    Mark Carew likes this.
  22. GrandpawB

    GrandpawB Well-Known
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    Wouldn't that cause it to plunge too deep into the work piece? :confused:
     
  23. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
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    Didn't read your post correct, to tired.
    Thought you where saying you load the code and the z was working in the wrong direction
     
  24. planga

    planga New
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    Hey guys,

    I pulled the trigger, bought some parts and started my 1000X1500 build. Hurray! I'm excited to see it come together!

    Now I'm starting to think about electronics and I have a question. I didn't find much while googling this, so I thought I'd post here.

    Question: I see some controllers like the CNC USB Controller Mk2 & Mk2/4 in the parts store and I've seen some others on ebay that say "Mach3 is NOT required". Obviously, not having to spend the money on Mach3 is a good thing, but I think some of that expense is offset by the more expensive controller. So my question is: is it a good thing or bad thing to NOT use Mach3? I'm assuming the USB controllers come with their own "Mach3" like software? ...or is it all hardware controlled ...but there has to be software control somewhere, right? I would assume that Mach3 is very flexible and proven and therefore possibly a better option? Anyway, your thoughts would be appreciated.

    Thanks!
     
    Tigerbot likes this.
  25. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Congrats on your build planga and welcom to the club, your going to love having cnc router :thumbsup:
    It does check it out here and see what you think
    http://www.planet-cnc.com/index.php?page=download
     
  26. icigroupptyltd

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    Hi Matt, I'm also keen to my hands on parts for the same build and checked today for the solid rollers for which there isn't enough stock. I can't find a response to your question re availability... Any idea guys?
     
  27. GrandpawB

    GrandpawB Well-Known
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    Z axis problem continues. I started all over. Re calibrated the Z axis just to be sure. Made sure both programs are in inches. Deleted the VCarve sign and re designed it watching all my tool path settings. Saved. Now here's a question. In post processors, whats the difference between Mach2/3 ATC Arcs, Mach2/3 Arcs and Mach2/3 wrapx2a? I chose the first one (in inches). Reloaded the sign program into Mach3 and the same thing happens. Something is telling the Z axis to travel up (pos.) farther than it's travel limit. :banghead: I'm about at my wits end. GRRR! I sure wish one of you brainiacks lived near Toledo.:D
     
  28. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    Hi @GrandpawB,

    You have chosen the correct post processor so no worries there.

    Load your GCode into Mach3 then click the Edit G Code button. Look at the code and within a few lines from the top (on mine it is around line N140) and you will see a line with a Z axis move (the line is something like G00G43Z20.000H0). Change the Z20.000 (or whatever it is) to Z0.200, save the modified GCode then try it again and see what results you get.

    Tweakie.
     
  29. GrandpawB

    GrandpawB Well-Known
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    Here's the first several lines:
     

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  30. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    Hi @GrandpawB,

    Your GCode snippet runs just fine here so...

    Perhaps check you Mach3 settings - for example in the MDI screen, zero the Z axis DRO, then in the input window enter Z1 and press return. Does you Z axis move up 1 inch ?

    Tweakie.
     

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