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need help printing acme nut block

Discussion in 'CAM' started by bob123, Jan 31, 2017.

  1. bob123

    bob123 Well-Known
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    i downloaded the iges library found the file for the nut block then used a website to convert it to stl, i load it into octoprint and it shows up in the slicer and looks good except when i print its missing the hole for the 8mm rod to go into..... the 2 bolt holes are there, its just the 8mm rod hole is filled in for some strange reason

    how do i fix that, and also will it have the threads for the rod? in the slicer it looks like a smooth hole which would make it useless???
     
  2. snokid

    snokid Master
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  3. bob123

    bob123 Well-Known
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    yah but the one i bought came loose, and my bed sags on one side because of it
     
  4. snokid

    snokid Master
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    how are you using it?
     
  5. bob123

    bob123 Well-Known
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    on the z axis, i have 2 pieces of vslot holding my bed, those rest ontop of 2 other vslot connected to my plate/wheels, in the middle of those is 1 nut block. its fine when powered on, but when powered off its always the same side that sags, because its so sloppy, The other side is nice and tight, takes to hands to turn it. Sloppy side, 2 fingers.
     
  6. bob123

    bob123 Well-Known
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    so before every print i have to raise my bed by hand then turn the motors on....
     
  7. snokid

    snokid Master
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    I get it now....
    well with that file and tinkercad you should be able to make just what you want....
    guys do take some lead screw and make taps out of them then you just need to drill and tap delrin block if the 3d printed part doesn't work out...

    guessing you will have to upsize it a little depending on what filament you use....
    Bob
     
  8. snokid

    snokid Master
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    openbuilds.png

    about 2 mins in tinkercad...
     
  9. bob123

    bob123 Well-Known
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    i need the one for the nut block

    Nut Block for 8mm Metric Acme Lead Screw

    i have the anti backlash ones but tightening didn't help at all, and i broke my screwdriver bit off inside the grubnut so its stuck inside the grub anyway can't transfer it to a new one.

    i was trying to use fusion 360 but that program is so clunky it made me want to throw my computer out a window. i could open the openbuild files but it wouldn't let me edit them. the file someone posted in here i started trying to build walls around the circle but it would fill the circle in when i raise them up :(. would be nice if i could just drop that circle onto the openbuilds file but don't think thats going to happen.

    guess ill try that tinkercad out, i for some reason thought fusion 360 was the mainstream option, but after playing with it, it just doesn't feel very well made. it looks powerful but seems illogical in the way its designed to work
     
  10. bob123

    bob123 Well-Known
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    hmm so same problem with tinkercad, how do i add to parts together, without one of the parts filling in the holes of the other? like dropping a square onto that circle part, without filling in the hole and threads?

    there should be a way to make one part unchangable while dropping another ontop of it?

    or at the least a way to fill in the holes with something, then lock that stuff, then build around it, then unlock and delete?
     
  11. snokid

    snokid Master
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    if you look at my latest posts I posted a youtube video where I show how to print in 2 colors with a monoprice select mini, I model a keychain in that video that might help.
    as you can see up a couple of posts you can group two items together without it filling in the hole.
    Bob
     
  12. bob123

    bob123 Well-Known
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    that shows cutting holes and putting text on. What im trying to do is, i import the circle with threads/hole in it, then i create a box, stetch it over/ontop of that part, i lower the height to below the top of the circle, group them, and it filled the entire circle up. I need to know how to protect the circle hole?

    i could create 4 box's 'around' the circle, but that would take me 10000x as long
     
  13. snokid

    snokid Master
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    couple of things that part is 14mm high so if you drop it into a hole in the block the block needs to be just under 14mm or you need to chamfer the hole first then center the threads in the block.
    if you look at the link for the threads there's a link to the original open scad settings there you could change the height of the part.

    another way to do this is create 2 blocks with half moons that the threaded part lays in and a threaded round part then use acetone to glue the parts together if you are using abs to print it.

    could also do the 2 blocks thing but cut the threaded part in half and print each part then the bolts that hold the block would hold it together. much easier to print that way...

    I could just draw it for you but then what would you learn?

    lol
    Bob
     
  14. bob123

    bob123 Well-Known
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    ah ok so there really is no way to protect the holes. I also didn't think about cutting a hole in the block then dropping it in, that is a good idea and solves my problem, the rest is easy, thx
     
  15. snokid

    snokid Master
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    fyi can be done....

    Screenshot 2017-02-01 22.02.52.png
     
  16. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    Hmmmm... I made two versions of the anti-backlash nuts in Fusion 360. 1 for 3/8 inch acme rod and 1 for 1/2 inch acme rod. The more I use Fusion 360, the more I like it. I opened and modified the STEP models from here: STEP Parts Library . I watched the first seven videos (which average about 5 minutes each) of the Fusion 360 lessons and figured it out from there. I plan to mill mine out of 3/4 inch Delrin and tapping the holes with taps I made from scraps of the acme rod. I am curious if the 3D printed ones work as well as Delrin. What filament are you using?
     
    Fred Quarles likes this.

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