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My new CNC router

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by jeffmorris, Feb 28, 2018.

  1. jeffmorris

    jeffmorris Veteran
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    I started building a new CNC router using C-Beam linear actuators for X and Y axis, some parts from ACRO system, and Z-axis from a too-small CNC engraving machine. Is there a C-Beam gantry plate and C-Beam end mount combined into one piece?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Unfortunately no as that's kind of an odd combination. I would suggest getting some 3" wide aluminum bar stock and cutting the length to match the full height of the assembly and then using the holes of the existing plates as a drilling template. If you're in a hurry Lowe's or Homer's should have 3" bar stock in 1/8" thickness fairly economically but you'd probably be better off going in search of 3/16" thickness.
     
  3. jeffmorris

    jeffmorris Veteran
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  4. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Have you adjusted the board current to match the steppers?
     
  5. jeffmorris

    jeffmorris Veteran
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    I tried adjusting the board current to match the steppers but there's still grinding noises. There are six wires coming out of the motors. I connected the outer wires of each phase to the board. I thought that the wires connecting the stepper motors to the board are too small and I have to get better wires.
     
  6. jeffmorris

    jeffmorris Veteran
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    Are 3D-printed parts such as combined gantry plate and end mounts as strong as aluminum parts?
     
  7. jeffmorris

    jeffmorris Veteran
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    I 3D-printed plates and spacers that allow me to use NEMA 17 stepper motors on C-Beam linear actuators, Z-axis plate that attaches to C-Beam gantry plate, and plates that combine C-Beam gantry plate and C-Beam End Mount into one piece.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. jeffmorris

    jeffmorris Veteran
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    I almost finished building my new version of my CNC router. I'll do some test cuts and let you know

    [​IMG]
     
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  9. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    Jeff, how long did it take you to print the white z axis beam? Three weeks? :ROFL: It's huge! What material did you use to print all these parts?

    From the angle of the photo I can't tell how much room you have for the spindle to go down. It looks like it's already at it's most up position and that the spindle is hitting the spoiler board.
     
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  10. jeffmorris

    jeffmorris Veteran
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    I printed the Z-axis beam in three pieces and screwed them together. I used PETG material. I may replace the Z-axis beam with linear actuator sold by Openbuilds. The NEMA 17 stepper motors worked well during the cutting of a small plastic sign.
     
  11. jeffmorris

    jeffmorris Veteran
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    As shown at https://openbuilds.com/builds/c-beam™-linear-actuator-build.1955/ , you can put two C-Beam Linear Actuators together to form simple XY C-Beam Example but there's very little space between C-Beam and regular C-Beam Gantry Plate for screws and Tee Nuts. I found out that my Z-Axis carriage isn't strong enough unless I set depth of cut at 1mm at a time. Any suggestions?
     
  12. Joe Santarsiero

    Joe Santarsiero OB addict
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    Jeff's a doer. Good job Jeff.
     
  13. jeffmorris

    jeffmorris Veteran
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    I wish to build a 3D printer/CNC router combo machine. I ordered a SmoothieBoard, C-Beam 250mm linear actuator, and other parts. The machine will have changeable toolheads much like the ZMorph MultiTool machine. How can I set up the SmoothieBoard?
     
  14. jeffmorris

    jeffmorris Veteran
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    I replaced the 3D-printed Z-Axis linear actuator with C-Beam linear actuator. I'm 3D-printing a pen holder. The spindle motor is controlled by CNC X-Pro board through a DC motor speed controller. When I take off the spindle holder and put on the pen holder, how can I disable the control of the spindle?

    [​IMG]
     
  15. jeffmorris

    jeffmorris Veteran
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    [​IMG]

    Yesterday, I replaced the regular gantry plates which have small wheels that run inside the C-Beams with gantry plates XL which have large wheels that run on top and bottom of C-Beams. Now, I can adjust the eccentric spacers without having to take the machine apart. Today, I used a 1/8" straight router bit with 1/4" shank to cut pieces of a jeep out of the 1/4" plywood and the cuts are much better than 1/8" spiral bits with 1/8" shanks.
     

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