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Finally finished with the new build in SW and was wondering...

Discussion in '3D printers' started by DarkAlchemist, Sep 12, 2015.

  1. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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    I am not sure how well this build will go in the real world but in the end you will still need 3 printed parts (the hot end holder and two belt holders due to the way things do not line up) and I haven't touched my piece of junk printer since May (too many odd issues) but I think I could squeeze out something enough to get on this build and make the parts better.

    Now when it is all said and done the bed only moves in Z (YAY, no more banding and taller prints are doable) and all wheels + vslot design. I tried to make it so you would not have to cut anything, or print anything, but alas you will have to cut 540mm * 2 and 410mm * 4 out of 3 1m long 20x20 plus print those 3 items I mentioned.

    Question I now have is I may be trying to over engineer this because my i3 rework was an absolute nightmare of a printer and I was tired of having to dial it in and spending 1k+ hours on it to dial it in to print ALMOST 1kg's worth of parts. No joy.

    My final mechanical parts price came to $548.18 Plus s&h which made my jaw drop and made me wonder about the above I mentioned.

    Lets say I have an L in 3 dimensions (a corner of a box) would I need 3 90 Degree Joining Plates in each corner to make it not wobble and be very stable/rigid or instead would 3 Cast Corner Brackets achieve the same level of rigidity/stablity ? My current design has both in all corners and I was wondering if both are needed or would one, and which one, would be enough?

    edit: Here is a picture of what I am talking about of one of the corners.
    [​IMG]
     
    #1 DarkAlchemist, Sep 12, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2015
  2. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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    The price doesn't include the 3 endstop holders and I am still debating if I should just print some because I prefer the ones with the light so I can quickly see, at a glance, which ones are engaged.

    I wonder if I should post this on a thread of another designer so I can get a response from someone who surely knows the answer? hmmmm.
     
  3. Joe Santarsiero

    Joe Santarsiero OB addict
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    Moved to 3d printers.
    I think the corner plates will do it for you. However, you could always order the cast angles later on.
     
  4. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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    The cast angle just isn't going to be enough, right? I wonder if the cast corners would matter all that much?
    The single most expensive part on the BOM is - 25 90 Degree Joining Plate SKU: 610 $4.80ea - $120.00 whereas this 28 Cast Corner Bracket SKU: 490 $1.50ea - $42.00 in comparison is minute.
     
  5. Joe Santarsiero

    Joe Santarsiero OB addict
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    Ever think about two joining plates and one cast corner for some or all corners?
    Just a thought.

    Joe
     
  6. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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    Well, not sure what that would be like looking at the picture above. Could you elaborate or draw something? X,Y,Z in each corner so I am not sure how two joining plates and 1 cast corner would work.
     
  7. Joe Santarsiero

    Joe Santarsiero OB addict
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  8. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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    Is there a rhyme or reason to which ones to remove? I was thinking the ones in the front to back to keep due to that being Y and more mass is moving back and forth (more inertia due to that) so those need to be steadier but I am only guessing.
     
  9. Joe Santarsiero

    Joe Santarsiero OB addict
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    I'm Sorry. It's hard to determine the orientation you're speaking of. It may not matter.
    In general, I believe using any two plates will accomplish what you're trying to achieve.
     
  10. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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    Lets see if more will chime in about this as I have no idea tbh. I sort of believe it but not 100% sold on it. At least I found out that my option of only one motor for Z was spot on as that has been the #1 issue on my current hunk of junk from day one. Prusa, et. al., and his 2 motors attached to the same stepper driver never ever sat well with me. My main concern is how well will my setup work and I will know that once I build it which is my fear to spend over 500 dollars and the <bleep> thing doesn't work, lol.
     
  11. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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    I did the math and the savings using your method was $52.80. That still is a lot of dough for just the mechanical parts then when you add the electronics this is a hefty price tag of a self made printer.

    Alternate price - $495.38 for just the mechanical parts plus s&h.
     

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