Separate names with a comma.
Some features disabled for guests. Register Today.
Discussion in '3D printers' started by Elmo Clarity, Apr 14, 2017.
A TrueUp Glide modified to use 20x40 V-Slot with a 300x300 bed.
Elmo Clarity published a new build:
Read more about this build...
This will be an interesting build for me, and others to watch. You are certainly not the only one who's wanted a 300x300 version. Others will look forward to seeing your adaptation files. Yes you are using 20x40 extrusions because you have them on-hand, but others considering a 300x300 have thought that something that size should warrant 20x40 extrusions too.
Before you get into remodeling printed parts, please compare the changes between the TrueUp Glide and the TrueUp Kit Version. The Kit version contains subtle changes that make it far superior from both engineering to assembly ease perspective.
Thanks for pointing that out. Will run through that thread and parts too.
One question I had for you was about the wheels you used on the Y axis. The BOM calls for standard size wheels. Is there an advantage with those wheels over the mini ones? Got lots of the mini-wheels around but no standard size.
I've faced that dilemma of having lots of the wrong wheels too. Common problem actually. But, the difference between X and Y is weight/mass, especially for a 300x300. Your Y motor will work a LOT harder moving, and stopping, the Y axis. That's a lot of inertia to over-come. The larger diameter wheels are probably not that much stronger carrying weight, but they are easier for the motor to pull. If you're going to need to order OpenBuild s parts anyhow, I'd certainly spring for those 4 wheels if I was you. One thing to consider - just how much trouble it will be to change those later if needed
About what I thought. Coworker of mine was saying just to use the mini-wheels. It sounds like they would work, but why risk it.
I have reworked the mock up to use 20x40 in all places. The image is using the parts from the TrueUp Kit so they don't fit. This is up to the end of the first steps in the assembly guide. I have the X Axis beam for measuring.
Download the http://3dwrx.com/TrueUp/kit-assembled.zip file. It is the printer fully assembled. That should be helpful in your reconstruction.
I notice you've turned the two uprights 90 degrees from your first layout. That will require 2 nylon guides for each bushing. It will theoretically be stronger this way however the friction will be doubled, that may be a problem for enough motor power to lift the X axis.
Examine the bushings and body cavities, notice that they are very slightly tapered from top to bottom.
Turns out the part I thought were feet, weren't. Corrected now. Also changed color for the original part to green. I'll be using red PETG for the printed parts so will be using red for my modified parts on the image. Also rotated the Z uprights back. I originally rotated them from a suggestion that it would give more strength. While it would, Keith pointed out it would require extra bushings and increase friction.
I did notice that the TrueUp Glide uses a full nylon bushing, but the kit uses a nylon rod. I didn't see any information about the rod, since being a kit there isn't a BOM. Do you find the rod works better than the full bushing?
The link to the BOM is in the first paragraph. I know, stupid place to put it. I'll list it down with the other files.
It is a 6/6 Nylon 5/16" rod. Amazon.com: Nylon 6/6 Round Rod, Opaque Off-White, Standard Tolerance, FDA compliant: Industrial & Scientific
The reason for the change is that I had a lot of requests for me to supply the printed nylon bushing since a spool of Talman 910 is pretty expensive for just those bushings. And for those hiring a printer to do the parts it was an expensive job.
The two concepts work equally well.
That was my guess. Quicker to cut a chunk off a rod than print a bushing. Now what to do with the two bushings I printed? I saw those rods on Amazon. Was also looking at the MDS ones because of the embedded lubricant. They are a bit more expensive though.
Link for the MDS ones? 6/6 nylon is already "self-lubricating". Any nylon, to some extent, is "self-lubricating", it's the surface tension of the molecular structure.
Amazon.com: MDS-Filled Nylon Round Rod, Opaque Black, Meets ASTM D5989/UL94HB, 5/16" Diameter, 5' Length: Industrial & Scientific
The MDS addition just makes it a lot more slippery. You can feel the difference between the two types.
Hmmm.... Given the price is about the same for both types, I might go with the MDS and see how that goes.
Thanks Elmo. I had no idea it existed. I need a new rod, this is what I'll be ordering. It also has enhanced hardness over unfilled 6/6. Changed the BOM to this rod http://3dwrx.com/TrueUp/TrueUp-KIT-BOM .pdf
Well. Guess you might see how well it works before I do. Let me know.
I believe this is the same type of material E3D uses in the Titan extruder. I have a lot of problems hanging onto that stuff because it is so slippery.
I'll be getting it Wed. Will check it out and respond then. Thanks again.
My pleasure. Glad to be able to give back to the project.
If you are interested, I can take a stab at converting these plastic parts from 2020 to 2040 in openscad? I kind of like these puzzles. I took the liberty of doing the Y-Axis End Plate (maybe it should be called front plate) based on what I saw in your drawing for the12" to see how it went. I made the openscad file so you can cut out some of the center mass to use less plastic, but can also leave it filled by setting the variable CutSize in the openscad file. I chamfered the edges instead of rounding as that is much easier in openscad. Here are the files.
Thanks David. You can probably tell by my images that I use OpenSCAD. I haven't started modding the parts yet as I am waiting for the build plate to find the final spacing of the Y rails. I'm always trying to learn new tricks with OpenSCAD so will take a look at your files. My final front piece will probably be very different than this though as I have a 7" PanelDue display to mount and the front was one of the options.
Ok, I won't take it any further than this. Here is the back matching plate.
Elmo, Curious what are you using for the build plate?
The one from OpenBuilds you show in the BOM. The spacing for the Y rails will be different since I am using the 20x40 at the moment. I want to see if that will work or if I need to adjust some other aspects to get it to work. I was planning on building a frame that attaches to the build plate that extends mounting points out for the 300x300 bed.
If you want to work on the other parts, I won't object. Just didn't know what the final spacing between the Y rails was going to be. Everything else should be fine.
When I build
If you use the same spacing (40mm between Y rails) your outer wheel holes will be 100 apart. The openbuilds universal build plate has 7mm & 5mm holes at that position. But then you'll need another plate to get out to the 316mm spacing for your heatbed's corner holes and again, that adds weight and inertia to have to deal with for the Y axis. So instead, do what I did on Steve Jeppesen's 300x300. Use a 12"x12"x1/8" plate. Drill the 7mm & 5mm wheel holes in a centered square pattern 100mm apart. Then print corner extensions to go out from the 12" (304mm) to 316mm for the corner holes. Just bolt the printed corner extensions on to the 12" plate's corners. Steve has over 1000 hrs with that and it worked fine. Something similar to ~
That way David's mods will work too.
Where did you get your plate from? Since I am using 20x40s, would that put the spacing 140? The distance between the insides of the rails will be the same, the there will be an extra 20mm on each side.
With the same 40mm spacing between Y extrusions your hole spacing would be 100mm, my hole spacing is 60mm (wheel holes are 10mm out from edge of extrusion). Got the plate off Amazon.
Okay. So you already added in the extra. Just to be sure, you're saying to use the plate from Amazon instead of the one from OpenBuilds?
The openbuilds one will need 2inch corner extensions or another larger plate bolted to it. Use the 12" Amazon one instead.
FWIW, a 9/32 drill bit is perfect for drilling the 7mm wheel holes if you don't have a 7mm drill bit.
12" Amazon plate in place of Openbuild plate. Do you have a link for the one you ordered? Finding several different ones but guessing most any of them will work.