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Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by jamesdjadams, Jan 31, 2017.
C-Beam XL build using TinyG V8.
jamesdjadams published a new build:
Read more about this build...
I'm exploring different options for my spoiler board setup and clamping system. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas to share? What has worked for you? What hasn't? I am thinking about re-surface the cutting area using the mill which will leave a pocket in the board and then drilling holes along the perimeter for clamps. I'm open to using double sided tape so long as it won't leave residue on the spoiler board and work piece.
what I mostly do is just screw the piece down to the spoiler board with drywall screws. simple cheap and easy....
I have found this to work best as well.
Great looking Build @jamesdjadams
Thanks Mark. You guys have a great site going on here. It is immensely helpful.
Have you tried cutting aluminum on this? I have an XL as well but am having some issues and wanted to get others opinions as well as feeds and speeds.
I haven't tried aluminum yet. I suspect that it will be OK if taken very slowly. I plan on doing some in the next few weeks. I'll let you know my results.
Have you noticed lines appearing inside your wheels, almost like cracks? Maybe it's normal? I've only run the machine for about 10 hours or so..
Let me know how it works out for you if you beat me to it!
I do have some scoring along the inner edges of the wheels but that is merely the bearing point of the V slot on the wheel. I wouldn't say they are cracks, so perhaps you are seeing something different than I am. I just had all three axes off the machine today as they seem to be coming loose when I run, but I think that was partially a controller issue with driving the steppers I have since resolved and a few times of overshooting the travel (I have the end stops but haven't wired them in yet) . I think slowing it down is the way to go as the overall stiffness of the XL may not be ideally suited to aluminum as say the standard C Beam Machine. This also means I will likely pursue a stiffening campaign after this Delta 3D printer job I am trying to cut.
I am building a 3D printer using C-beam linear actuators. I also have a side-to-side play at the interface between the acme screws and the bearings. Is the plumber's tape trick still holding and working ? Or has it worn out over time ?
Very nice build by the way ! I will probably do the same "electronic box" as you, i find it very clean !
Thank you !
Hi @Jacques D!
The plumbers tape is still holding but building the actuators with better fitting tolerances would be the ticket.. You can epoxy the bearings into place which is something that I may take on one of these days. I haven't explored any options beyond the tape to make a better fit between the lead screw and the bearing.
Thanks for checking out my build and I look forward to seeing yours. I may build a 3D printer soon too. I keep seeming to need one!
Do you think using longer C-beam to get more than a 13" wide cut area is feasible?
I'm needing to extend it at least 2 inches but if it's no issue I would extend it to 24" so I could load and cut 24"x24" pieces
CBeam XL is something like 28 in wide. There is not reason why you couldnt modify it to be 1 meter on Y axis as well, which was done here...C-Beam Machine upgrade to 1000mm x 1000mm
look at mine, the cutting area is 24,24 inches
I've seen them like that style. I'm asking about simply using the XL style kit but extending it.
now waiiiiiiit a minute
Where in the HRM are you? I didnt have any thought until I saw the Metals R Us link! Im just 20 minutes from dartmouth
Awesome write-up I am building my cbeam right now just got the box and going to open it up. Studying the install instructions so I kind of have a heads up before I actually do the build. Thanks for the tips, what is the size of the aluminum plate that's an awesome idea I was going to go with MDF but I think I'll do this instead.
Hi Moniker, Sorry for the delay getting back to you. We've recently moved and life has been busy! I don't recall the exact dimensions of the aluminum plate but I tried to keep it as large as possible for mounting clamps and things. Now that my new wood-shop is finally getting setup, I will be getting back at this machine and posts! I made a couple of push stick with it over the weekend.
Check it out:
Hi @Julius, I live near the Nova Scotia / New Brunswick border but make trips down your way now and then! Nice to know there are other "locals" on here. haha
Great Build @jamesdjadams Thank you for taking time to do such a nice post on it.
btw those push sticks make a great project as well!
Looking forward to all the cool projects you come up on your machine.
Question, what did you use to shim your 611 in the router mount?
Thanks again for all your help to the community
Hi @Mark Carew, Thanks for the words of encouragement!
As for the shim, it's a 3D printed component created by @Jimmybuckets (link). I have attached the particular .stl file that I used.
The first thing I did was make a v-slot table. From there, I made custom spoilers depending on the task. Both types have cut outs that allow bolt access from above the spoiler. A simple four bolts will hold down more than this machine can handle.
I have a few made from acrylic for machining aluminum. This allows me to machine while flooded. These are made with very long slots that allow me to hold anything that can be placed on the spoiler. Granted it was only made for up to a 6"x8" plate, but it could be applied to the entire 13"x13" area.
Then I have a standard MDF spoiler that is smaller than my cutting area. Being able to machine the entire area has been one of my better decisions. This allows me to place larger material than the pocketed spoiler would allow, without having to worry about it being off level.
You have an aluminum base. You can always use the machine to drill it's own grid. Then tap them to the standard m5 thread.
Cut your spoiler with holes to accommodate your grid, and that's that.
I am using a particle board spoil board, so I use particle board screws on thicker pieces, but on thinner stuff like 6 mm plywood and lexan sheets I often use some wire nails, along with potentially some double sided tape. Wouldn't recommend it though for anything thicker or harder than that.
Your photos and the instructions you include look really good. Thank you for posting them.
Unfortunately your build inspired me to ask a question.
Not to hijack this thread but I am looking to build a CBM XL and I am curious about some of the step you have in your build. Is there a need to modify the c-beam extrusions that I get with the kit as far as cutting them to length as well as drilling and tapping ...or is that only necessary if someone buys the parts individually from OpenBuilds parts store?
It is vital that you measure all lengths of aluminium supplied by Openbuilds.
They will not be too short, but they may well be longer than expected.
So there is a likelihood of your needing to adjust the lengths precisely.
Exactly how precise is vital?
I have to ask since a mitre saw seems to the recommended tool to use to cut everything to length. And since mitre saws are typically used for carpentry and woodworking the saw in it self has limitations. I'm guess you're going to say + or - .015 inches at best where perhaps + or - .020 to .025 inches is maybe actually more realistic.
Sprags, there is a good description of the issue in the thread "The best cutting and squaring method??" in "General Talk". It also goes into a jig that can be used to square the ends of the cuts.
Yes. Go the router way
I've always considered a decent table saw to be a basic human necessity (tell your wife that's from the World Health Organization)
Dimensional accuracy isn't important it's getting ends square and "the same length" where they need to be.