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7050 Sphinx

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Michael.M, Jul 15, 2017.

  1. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    Your typical mechanical microswitch is actually very repeatable, I just have a bad habit of bumping them while the machine is running or catching the switch arm while cleaning up.
     
  2. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    Probably the most reliable way of using the microswitch is to do away with the arm and have a pin that contacts the button under the arm directly
     
  3. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    Oh I want to let everyone know that those wheel covers I made for the y axis are working out great. I don't get much of anything under them and the wheels are always free spinning
     
  4. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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  5. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    Cast iron Adaptive milling success.
     
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  6. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    The machine handled it no problem. Actually should have taken a deeper cut. This was 2mm step down. .5mm engagement to the material, 400mm/s feedrate.
     
  7. Sprags

    Sprags Well-Known
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    Believe it or not...that’s how the micro switches are configured before they put the lever on them. I like the idea of using the Hall effect sensors you have. I may look into getting those later on.

    On another note my Phoenix CNC board is out of customs and on its way here maybe by Friday. My 65mm screws are supposed to be here tomorrow so maybe I can get the structure and xyz axis assemblies completed this weekend
     
  8. Sprags

    Sprags Well-Known
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    So I contemplated installing bCNC on a Raspberry Pi 3 but I'm thinking it may be more trouble than it's worth since I'm going to need a monitor along with a keyboard and mouse. And rather than that I can buy a cheap new laptop. So will bCNC run on what I'm going to guess is Windows 10 Home Edition...or whatever is the latest MS OS they put on cheap laptops you can buy for $200 or $300. I'm guess when it's all said and done I can maybe put together a Pi for $200. I played around with Linux before I got a life so if I need to install it again that's not an issue.

    Will one of those cheap laptops be fast enough? Or.....would buying a cheap laptop and installing Linux to run bCNC be a possibility?
     
  9. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    Yeah the PC I run my machine from is nothing special
     
  10. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    I was getting more dust than chips when milling the iron which means I really should have stepped it up a little bit. The pocket and slot I milled are for a tailstock cam lock.
     
  11. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    If the program can run on a Pi, I'm sure you'd be fine with a laptop or netbook. Just don't expect to do any crazy CAD work on the machine.
     
  12. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    This is so awesome. I really want to try something more difficult than aluminum, but I can't - at this time - think of a project.
     
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  13. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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  14. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    Hey this video is what got me thinking about this sort of milling. His machine is more rigid but to be honest, I think anything is possible with the right settings. We have so many options for complex milling strategies these days.
     
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  15. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    Hey I want to say I am nothing short of impressed with these Kyocera endmills. They last a long time (as long as you don't crash) and they're relatively cheap. I also could never get away with all of this without this awesome spindle. My steppers are louder than this thing! I'll make sure my product links are up to date. The best deal is the 10 x 1/8" 2Fl endmills for about $35.
     
  16. Sprags

    Sprags Well-Known
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    What do you mean 10 X 1/8"? Are you saying you can get a quantity of 10 end mills that are 1/8" in diameter? If so...that's a really good deal.
     
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  17. Sprags

    Sprags Well-Known
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    Just as a side note...one project I am working on is finding better tools for machining all of the different materials we machine. For aluminum I chose Kyocera-SGS and OSG brand end mills and drills for the majority of the machining applications. My main reasons foe those brands were because of how well the performed compared to how long they lasted vs. price. Guhring, Mitsubishi, Iscar as well as others machine aluminum just as well but they cost a lot more and they really don't last longer. Some of the tools I installed back in October are still being used after all that time with no degradation to the tool. The tools we use range in side from 3/64 up to 1/4 inch diameter. Some are larger and not many are smaller but they are in the range most routers would use.
     
  18. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    Also, another thing about those endmills; the majority of them have an included collar so no need to adjust tool offset when changing to a different cutter
     
  19. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    DSCN1319.JPG DSCN1318.JPG
    Those colored collars are what I'm talking about. All the tools have the same offset.
     
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  20. Sprags

    Sprags Well-Known
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    By offset you are talking about the length offset...correct?

    And what did you mean by 10 x 1/8? A quantity of 10 end mills?

    Can you tell me your source for the end mills? My company buys them through a tooling supply house that has lots of different tooling manufacturers and I see the tooling reps in here all the time from each tooling manufacturing companies. We get a good discount from MSRP but if you are telling me you are getting 10 tools for 35 bucks then that price is way better than what my company pays...but then again we use carbide end mills not high speed steel.
     
  21. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    This is micrograin carbide. I don't have / use hss.
     
  22. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    And yeah I'm talking about tool length offset. As long as you shove the endmill up until the collar meets the collet, no need to set z height during tool change.
     
  23. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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  24. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    That guy has a huge selection of bits
     
  25. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    Those endmills have a .5" flute length though so they deflect when pushed too hard. I also bought a few Destiny Viper endmills from him that are designed specifically for aluminum. I have yet to try them.
     
  26. Sprags

    Sprags Well-Known
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    That's a good deal for the cutters. If they were carbide they would break before deflecting a lot...but HSS is actually a good tooling material for aluminum. 2 flute tools have a fairly deep flute which is why they also deflect a lot in addition to the long flute length.
     
  27. Sprags

    Sprags Well-Known
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    I finally got the Phoenix CNC controller board so now, other wire and cables and other miscellaneous components I have all of the items I need to assemble this machine. I've started by assembling the the wheel/plate assemblies. Unfortunately I had a medical setback that put cutting the rails and tapping them on hold. Hopefully this weekend I can get that accomplished. One question I have. I see in your thread you say that the X-axis c-beam needs to be cut to 503mm if following your plans. I take that dimension is based on a nominal X-axis dimension of 500mm because the wheel/plate assembles mounted to the y-axis c-beams are 1.5mm away from the y axis beam. I'm asking so I can plan for the dimensions of the 20x60 rails used for assembling the base frame.

    Thanks again.
     
  28. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    That's correct. Whatever dimension you go with for your x axis, add 3mm to the total for the small gap behind each gantry plate.
     
  29. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    Iff you're using a miter saw, take your time and make sure your extrusions are clamped. I would also take a very small test cut and see where your kerf is in relation to where you lined up the teeth on the blade. I say this because the blade i used seemed to cut a little farther past where i lined up the teeth. It wasn't much but it could screw some things up if you're not careful.
     
  30. Michael.M

    Michael.M Journeyman
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    Hey Spraggs, make sure you start a build guide once you get going. This way you can share your experiences with other makers looking to build a Sphinx CNC. Also, there's a good chance other people, besides myself, have some tips for you. Thanks.

    Michael
     
  31. Sprags

    Sprags Well-Known
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    I keep meaning to do that but I have so many other projects I'm working on (some hobby related, some essential home related and some I unable to categorize).
     

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