Hello All I still have to finalize the troubleshooting on the vcarve post I made but things have been crazy Currently trying to cut a 2 sided project where the top side is one slot cutting with 3/32 bit and then the bottom is all cut with a 1/4" there is one slot on the bottom that is supposed to line up where the top slot is centered over the bottom slot but for some reason it is not. So I guess I am thinking it is the difference in the bit size. I say this because the degree of the offset is right at about the difference between half of the two bit sizes. So when doing such two sided work am I supposed to reset the x,y,z for each bit? I did try this and it didn't seem to work. I am using the probe. I am off on the x axis. The y axis lines up properly.
2 sided work is most easily done by incorporating 2 holes on the centerline, can be in either X or Y, I find Y easiest. these 2 holes are in the WASTE part of the project, and are drilled through the material into the spoilboard as part of the first operation on side1. I would drill them 1/4" or 6mm, whatever suites the dowel you have. IMPORTANT, the hole closest to you is the X0Y0 point for the whole project, for both sides!!! make sure to leave enough original material around the outside of the part to support it correctly for the 2nd operation. for side 2, dowels are inserted and the material turned over in the correct direction and fitted onto the dowels. This gives you your side 1 to side 2 alignment reference since the pin (X0Y0) has not moved. Probe Z zero and cut the 2nd side. Here is a wing I cut some time back..... at this point side 1 has already been cut and here are the alignment dowels inserted into the spoilboard. Note the red sharpy lines that helped me keep the material correctly oriented, do everything you can to avoid confusion (-: The pin on the right is X0Y0 for both sides Here the material (2" insulation foam) has been cut on side 1 leaving side 2 only partially supported, so I stuck on some scrap bits of foam and then machined them down to be level with the original material before applying masking tape for the 'masking tape and CA glue' hold down method. The alignment holes will fit onto the dowel pins. and finally side 2 has been cut in perfect alignment with side 1, I have arrowed the alignment holes for clarity. Yes, the Rc plane flies well, I cut these for a friend. (a hotwire cutter is a much faster way of cutting wings with better surface finish, don't do it this way )
Hi there and thank you for the reply. I did actually have the dowel holes in my project and probably overkill at 5/8” lol so if I am understanding correctly , because I am extremely new. I set my dowel holes to center of X , I attached an image of the top surface. There are 10 individual pieces on this workpiece , all are the same and each piece has been equally spaced and centered within the workspace so they are equal distance all around including distance bewtween the end pieces and the dowels. So when I flipped the piece over I flipped it taking the right side over to the left side (I would say that is flipping it on the x axis) and I did originally just zero the Z as I changed to the larger bit. The first cut on side 2 then cuts deep enough to create a slot so its depth crosses the slot depth from side one so the board is cut completely through. Side one slot is thinner and sits in the middle of the wider slot on side two. So when I simply just reset the zero with the larger bit and it did not line up properly I tried to reset all axis and it still the X traveled to the same spot, which seemed very odd as the y issue was corrected after resetting all axis. Not sure if that all makes sense so I plan to just recut but wanted to make sure I knew the proper process for 2 sided work. I feel I may be flipping the workpiece the wrong way but also wonder why it matters if all pieces are equal and equally spaced on the workpiece. My brain doesn’t like the flipping part lol
so you have 2 pins on the centerline of the material, in the X axis ------------------ Y+ | 0 0 | ------------------ Y- then you turn the material over so Y+ move to Y- end, top to bottom, not left to right of course you do the same thing in the CAD software (-:
I see Forgot to attach my image earlier I will run another cut tomorrow. Thank you again for the reply
If using vectric software, make your dowel pin holes where you want. the best is to use 3 so you absolutely can not flip the material the wrong way. If not 3, then use two but not in a way where you can flip the project the wrong way. When you draw your dowel holes for side 1, copy them to side 2. I have never had a misaligned project this way. The only time I have messed one up is when I only used two pins in a relatively straight line along the Y axis and I accidentally flipped my project sideways rather than end for end as was set up in the job size settings in V carve.
Ok so I flipped it on the Y and that seem to resolve the issue on the X axis not lining up but now the Y axis is off. I went ahead and zeroed out the x y z on a second pass and it hit the same spot so that had no effect. I originally only reset the z axis after changing bits and flipping the board over, but both scenarios ran on the same location where the Y axis is about an 1/8" to high on its pass.
ok , so after a pretty close inspection the x is still off bout a 1/16 like the Y....both are maybe slightly off more than a 1/16 but when i manually adjusted the y axis zero -.05 it fixed the issue on the y so i would need the same adjustment on the x.. what is causing this to be off so little? Probably a dumb question but when I zero out using the probe do I need to make sure the cutting edge of the bit is facing and touching the probe edge ....it seems to me the space between the teeth could be causing this slight offset
I don't use the bit to probe X and Y because of that issue. I use an accurately turned brass rod to probe XYZ, then change to the bit and re probe Z. X and Y are set to the centre line of the bit so there shouldn't be any need to re probe X and Y after changing a bit. Alex.
If its calibrated, perhaps its not been trammed Tramming: A generic guideline Ideally. Or probe with a Dowel Pin for XY. Swop in Endmill. Then probe Z
You should not re-zero x and y if you are doing everything right and your dowels are tight. Only Z. You should watch this video: Tutorial Browser - Aspire | Vectric
Well everyone....I just wanted to express how thankful I am for all your feedback. I successfully cut my project this evening and learned a great deal along the way. Thank you all very much
