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C-Beam XL - TinyG - Aluminium Plate - Dewalt 611

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by jamesdjadams, Jan 31, 2017.

  1. jamesdjadams

    jamesdjadams Veteran
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  2. jamesdjadams

    jamesdjadams Veteran
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    Hi Everyone,

    I'm exploring different options for my spoiler board setup and clamping system. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas to share? What has worked for you? What hasn't? I am thinking about re-surface the cutting area using the mill which will leave a pocket in the board and then drilling holes along the perimeter for clamps. I'm open to using double sided tape so long as it won't leave residue on the spoiler board and work piece.

    -Jamie
     
  3. snokid

    snokid Veteran
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    what I mostly do is just screw the piece down to the spoiler board with drywall screws. simple cheap and easy....
    Bob
     
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  4. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    I have found this to work best as well.
     
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  5. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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  6. jamesdjadams

    jamesdjadams Veteran
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    Thanks Mark. You guys have a great site going on here. It is immensely helpful.
     
  7. PhotoSgt85

    PhotoSgt85 Veteran
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    Have you tried cutting aluminum on this? I have an XL as well but am having some issues and wanted to get others opinions as well as feeds and speeds.
     
  8. jamesdjadams

    jamesdjadams Veteran
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    Hi @PhotoSgt85

    I haven't tried aluminum yet. I suspect that it will be OK if taken very slowly. I plan on doing some in the next few weeks. I'll let you know my results.

    Have you noticed lines appearing inside your wheels, almost like cracks? Maybe it's normal? I've only run the machine for about 10 hours or so..

    Let me know how it works out for you if you beat me to it!

    Cheers,
    -Jamie
     
  9. PhotoSgt85

    PhotoSgt85 Veteran
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    I do have some scoring along the inner edges of the wheels but that is merely the bearing point of the V slot on the wheel. I wouldn't say they are cracks, so perhaps you are seeing something different than I am. I just had all three axes off the machine today as they seem to be coming loose when I run, but I think that was partially a controller issue with driving the steppers I have since resolved and a few times of overshooting the travel (I have the end stops but haven't wired them in yet) . I think slowing it down is the way to go as the overall stiffness of the XL may not be ideally suited to aluminum as say the standard C Beam Machine. This also means I will likely pursue a stiffening campaign after this Delta 3D printer job I am trying to cut.

    -PhotoSgt85
     
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  10. Jacques D

    Jacques D Well-Known
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    Hello James,

    I am building a 3D printer using C-beam linear actuators. I also have a side-to-side play at the interface between the acme screws and the bearings. Is the plumber's tape trick still holding and working ? Or has it worn out over time ?

    Very nice build by the way ! I will probably do the same "electronic box" as you, i find it very clean !

    Thank you !
    Jacques
     
  11. jamesdjadams

    jamesdjadams Veteran
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    Hi @Jacques D!

    The plumbers tape is still holding but building the actuators with better fitting tolerances would be the ticket.. You can epoxy the bearings into place which is something that I may take on one of these days. I haven't explored any options beyond the tape to make a better fit between the lead screw and the bearing.

    Thanks for checking out my build and I look forward to seeing yours. I may build a 3D printer soon too. I keep seeming to need one!

    Cheers!
    -Jamie
     

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