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Workbee Z-axis Upgrade

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Weekend-Woodworker, Apr 30, 2020.

  1. Weekend-Woodworker

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    Weekend-Woodworker published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
  2. Yanou Fishel

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    Looks great! but I'd remove the lower corner brackets, shift the spindle mount down (this way you can mount the assembly higher to the X-beam, decreasing rotational leverage) and add 2 holes to mount the spindle mount from the back as well
     
  3. Woodsmith

    Woodsmith New
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    Hi, Looks good.
    Two suggestions:
    1. Have you looked at the Shapeoko HDZ from Carbide3D, as it for a similar sized machine with similar requirements.

    2. Have you considered putting linear rails on z plate? Advantage is rails help stiffen Z plate, and spindle better supported at higher z height. Of course it has other knock on effects to design but seen this advocated else where.

    Do please keep sharing your evolving design.
     
    #3 Woodsmith, May 1, 2020
    Last edited: May 1, 2020
  4. Weekend-Woodworker

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    Thanks for the suggestions.. i was thinking about adding fasteners from the back, the only issue i see is with the sequence of putting all the parts together.
     
  5. Weekend-Woodworker

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    I have taken some inspiration from the s3 HDZ. Can you elaborate on point #2. The linear rails are mounted on the z plate.. the design is incomplete, there will be a separate mounting plate to connect to rails on the x axis.
     
  6. Woodsmith

    Woodsmith New
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    Sorry no that wasn't clear, I meant having the rails on the spindle side rather than gantry side. Most recently seen it on Ptiwee's LR/BS CNC Router thread ( though he is using a cbeam rather than a flat plate)
     
  7. Yanou Fishel

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    Well, just make sure your spindle mount is out of the way of the screws for your linear rail carriages. Then it's just Spindle mount (from the back) -> Linear rail carriages -> Spindle mount (from the front) -> Spindle -> Let 'm rip
     
    Weekend-Woodworker likes this.
  8. Davey Rance

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    Something to consider is shorten the ballscrew length. One of the issues with the HDZ is that by the time that the screw is bound (threaded all the way down) a bunch of the magic little balls have escaped from blocks.

    So if you figure out where the stopping point is based on the rail length you can then move the bottom block up and decrease the ballscrew. (I need to make about a 15mm block / spacer to ensure that the HDZ dosnt go beyond the end of the rails)
     
    Weekend-Woodworker likes this.

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