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Workbee xpro mobo issue?

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Beëlzeblub, Jun 7, 2019.

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  1. Beëlzeblub

    Beëlzeblub Journeyman
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    Aloha Guys!

    So i rebuild my C-beam into a 1000mmx500mm workbee. The Bee is powerd by the cnc xpro v3 and a ATX power supply. Now it worked ok with the C-beam and i only had a lockup once. However, ever since i rebuild it into my workbee, i'm unable to finish a job! It starts well but after 10% it stops milling and stands idle... I us UGS as controller and whatever i do it doesn't respond at all anymore. Even if ik close UGS and power down the board and unplug usb and put it all back together again, it's stil the same. Ugs says it's connected but i cant move the motors. I've tried openbuilds controller and it's unresponsive aswel. Sometimes is also get a error opening connection in ugs...

    I've spent my time rebuilding it into a workbee and now the **** thing doesn't work... it's a real pain in the ***

    So anyone have any ideas?
    Thanks!

    Beelze
     

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  2. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    2 possibilities

    1) sounds like EMI. Check proper USB cable, check up to date FTDI drivers, route motor/spindle/power cables far from usb
    2) atx: you will get much better performance out of a 24v psu. Atx is a legacy option more for retrofits. At 12v you need more current for the same torque, would probably overheat the drivers, they cut out, and thus motors don't move
     
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  3. Beëlzeblub

    Beëlzeblub Journeyman
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    ow i thought about that but i never had the problem with my C-beam, however because the c-beam is smaller in size, i could route power cables on the left side and my usb went to the right side. With my bee, i all route it through the same dragchain... ok as for the atx, i can change the power supply but i see alot of people use an atx or a 12v power supply from a 3d printer even. What type of 24v supply would you suggest that you know of is a stable fit?

    and btw thanks for your fast reply Peter!
    Groeten
    Beelze
     
  4. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    Yeah if they do run nearby 99% chance there's your problem

    12v vs 24v: 24v allows for faster acceleration, cooler drivers, less skipping, less harmonics, higher efficiency in the output mosfets, and overall just a little more oomph. 12v works... Just not optimal. 3D printers have gone 24v too many years ago, except the chinese garbage ones :)

    Head over to 24V Meanwell Power Supply Bundle for the best PSU setup
     
  5. Beëlzeblub

    Beëlzeblub Journeyman
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    I'm in luck, i had a 24v psu in my storage, thought i only had a 12v but next to it i had a 24v as well. However, i dont have a psu cover for it and i think it's safer to get that. I've never worked with a cover before so I can build one or buy one. Cheaper to build one though.
    I do have a question about the fuse in the switch though. As the psu is a 17A, will it really pull 17A or is it safe to put in a lower A fuse in it like 12A?
     

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  6. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    Most PSUs have an onboard fuse on the Mains side that will blow if anything goes wrong

    Good PSUs (like the Meanwells we sell) has onboard short circuit, overload, overtemp protection etc.

    If you want to add a fuse on the DC side of things, calculate or measure your actual current draw, and spec fuse about 20% higher

     
    Alex Chambers likes this.
  7. Beëlzeblub

    Beëlzeblub Journeyman
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    thanks for the info!
     
  8. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Openbuilds Team
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    Your psu is capable of supplying 17A - what you draw from it will depend on what you connect to it. (Plus what Peter said above - he types faster than me:D
    )
    Alex.
     

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