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Vulcan MAX

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Keith Davis, Jul 3, 2020.

  1. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    I run Slic3r as a stand-alone app instead of inside Repetier. Slic3r is not a Windows app. It runs through the Python interpreter which is below Window at the DOS level. As such, Slic3r does not have full access to the Windows file system.

    You have to unzip a zip containing STLs so you can get to the individual STL files. If an STL contains multiple objects you can have Slic3r Split them into separate objects - delete the objects you want gone - then save the one object left into an STL of it's own - reload the master STL and repeat for each object. I use Slic3r exclusively because in the past I've made suggested changes to Alessandro and found them in an update within a day.
     
  2. WilberMaker

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    I found I can do it with 3D builder from Microsoft. Works good. I'm now looking for the front corners with the feet on them. I find the four corners but I don't see the feet. thx
     
  3. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    [​IMG] http://3dwrx.com/VulcanMAX/frame-corners.stL
     
  4. Samsamit

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    Yo Keith! I have tuned and calibrated and set up my printer now. Yesterday i uploaded the XYZ_Cube and tried to print it. The nozzle didnt touch the bed and the result was bad. I upped the bed temp and got the filament to stuck. it was good. I also needed to add some baby stepping. But when i continued the print the result was really bad :D I quess its the z steps per mm but my calculations seems right. I really need help i dont know what to do.
     

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  5. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Did you use M8x 1.25mm threaded rod for the Z screws, with 16 tooth pulley on the Z motor and 20 tooth pulleys on the Z screws? If so, the Z axis has a 1mm pitch. It raises 1mm for each revolution of the motor or 0.005mm for each full motor step, or 200 steps per 1mm.
     
  6. Samsamit

    Samsamit New
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    Ohh i got it to work. I used the prusa reprap calculator for zsteps per mm and got a value of 1600 with T8 2mm pitch rod and 1:1 gear ratio. But with some calculation i found out that 400 steps per mm was right. Dont know why. But now i got my first calibration cube ready and it looks pretty good. there is some oscillations that can be seen on leyer lines and i need to adjust the initial layer speed to 10mm/s to get the filament to stuck.
     

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  7. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    What is your first layer height setting? I generally use 0.4mm and run first layer speed at 70mm/sec. Really depends a lot on the brand of filament.

    What microstepping did you set your jumpers for? At 400 it looks like jumpers are set for 1/4 w/ 200 step motor
     
  8. Samsamit

    Samsamit New
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    Jumpers? Im using duet 2 wifi and the microstepping is set with gcode in config. I have set it to 16x with interpolation. Im using petg and the first layer height is 0.4mm. I think the problem is with bed adhesion so it has nothing to do with the build itself :D im running some tests today and try to calibrate the accelerations and jerk settings. This build is great! i did make some artistic changes that did not make the build any better... But im happy to got something working.
     
  9. JustinTime

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    PETG is the my bain! I have so much problem with first layer adhesion. Sometimes it adheres and sometimes it doesn't even when I don't change anything. Once it adheres the part comes out marvelously.
     
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  10. Marcos Jerez Salcedo

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    Hello everybody here.
    I'm quite new to 3D printing, and I'm thinking on building my first printer.
    I'm taking a deep look into this beautifull project and at first glance 2 questions came to me.
    There's no need for a belt tensioner in any of the printer's axis ?
    Would the printer get any profit on using a 0.9 deg stepper motor on the Z axis or is it useless taking onto account the manufacturing precission of the Z axis M8 threaded rod and the nylon M8 nuts ?
    Sorry if my comments looks stupid, I'm quite experienced on mechanics, but very poor in 3D printers
     
  11. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    2GT belts will not flex in length at these relatively low weights and speeds, therefore an active tensioner is not needed. Each belt has idler pulleys that set the static tension. The bed of course carries the most weight, and I've run similar setups on printers with over 30,000 hours that have no change in static tension.

    The main advantage of 0.9 degree motors is that when running at full step or 1/2 step, they maintain true accuracy with less noise and jerkiness. Any microstepping is inherently inaccurate, so using 0.9 degree motors would run quieter/smoother and cut the inaccuracy rate in half. Since a Posi-Drive Z design synchronizes the two Z screws, such inaccuracy would accumulate only in final height of printed object, rather that in a disparity between the two screws, and be erased on homing for the next print job. If you have 0.9 motors use them on all axes. If not, the only difference you'd really notice would be louder printing with 1.8 degree motors.
     
  12. Marcos Jerez Salcedo

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    Thanks a lot Keith. I really apreciate your comments and your effort to answer me.
    I know you're having a bad time.Please, get better
     
  13. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Thanks Marcos, I'll be publishing a new design next week. Spent the last 2 weeks making the assembly guide for it .Keeping busy...

    BldrBot Assembly Guide
     
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  14. Marcos Jerez Salcedo

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    I'll be expecting your new releases
     
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  15. WilberMaker

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    I like the BldrBot design Keith. I'm just starting to get up and around after the leg surgery. Spent the last three weeks mostly in bed with the leg elevated and heavy meds. Still cant' sit up very long because of the swelling. Think about you often. Guess you are kind of my inspiration and a mentor, when I start feeling sorry for myself for a bum leg I think of you and how it could be much worse. Funny I don't even know you but connected with these printers somehow. Cut all the aluminum and set up three workbenches in the living room before surgery so ready to start assembly of my Vulcan. Can you share your Marlin configuration files? Have been spending time going through all the options in Marlin and Cura that I really didn't understand before. (Not that I do now, but a little better maybe).

    Thanks Sam
     
  16. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Hey Sam
    The BldrBot is an entirely different design from the Vulcan. In fact the BldrBot has been my most popular design over the years. I actually have a newer, stronger design of the BldrBot ready to publish later this week. Here is the Assembly Guide for it BldrBot Assembly Guide

    I do not have a Marlin config for Vulcan since I have been unable to build a Vulcan. As with any new design, setting up a config is just a matter of some trial and error. Really no secrets or rocket science to it, just be prepared to compile and upload a half dozen times.

    I think I may get out of this printer gig. I think I've found a lucrative market elsewhere. Decades ago I spent 10+ hours s day sitting in a Kenworth seat traveling 150,000 miles a year, with never a 'butt ache' like I'm getting after an hour in a wheelchair. There would be an enormous market for a wheelchair with a Kenworth class seat. And I, for one, sorely need one.
     
  17. WilberMaker

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    Yes, people ask how I can sit a drive for 11 hours a day after day. That seat is incredible, heating and cooling, everything adjusts. My wife passed with ALS and I got to see some really high-end chairs. Can always be improved on, but you got some work to do. I was always amazed at the ones that could jack up the person so they could see over a crowd. Talking in the $20-30k.

    On the Vulcan, on the BOM you call for 2-20x20 cut at 440mm and 2 at 460mm. Step 8 is calling out 2-480mm. Also, step 22, M5 x 150mm screw. That is a really long screw. Might want to look at that.

    Sam
     
    #77 WilberMaker, Dec 8, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2020
  18. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    The image in step 8 was wrong. Changed to20x20x46omm now. THANKS! :)
     
  19. WilberMaker

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    I edited post 77 when you were sending. did you see step 22?
     
    #79 WilberMaker, Dec 8, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2020
  20. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    150mm?? Yeah that's pretty loooong. How about 60mm? Changed it too.
     
  21. Jonathan white

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    Hello is the max the better build? I see there is a pro as well
    was just about to start building my own and saw this looks like a good buid
    can someone please tell me if this is built with commonly found parts i have lots on order from aliexpress i was aiming for a build of a 328mm bed
    thanks
     
    #81 Jonathan white, Dec 24, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2020
  22. Jonathan white

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  23. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Z axis Requires the 1180 close-looped belt 1100mm, 1136mm,1140mm, 1164mm or 1180mm 2mm pitch 2gt endless belt - RobotDigg

    Pulleys

    1) 20 Tooth 5mm 2GT for Y motor
    1) 20 Tooth 5mm 2GT for X motor
    1) 16 Tooth 5mm 2GT for Z motor
    2) 20 Tooth 8mm 2GT for Z Screws
     
  24. Jonathan white

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    thank you keith can you please tell me if this is the best printer out of the from the designer the vulcan max ? as ive seen a few there is a pro? as well

    1, Not sure on what thread size to g for the y axis screws? is it best to get the finest pitch one there is a 2mm one for better accuracy??
    2, ive also seen white bearings? are they the best ones?
    3, what size are the 2 vertical vertical screws? 5mm dia, not sure on pitch 2mm?
    4, what size is the bed screw 8mm? not sure on the pitch 2mm?

    thanks
     
    #84 Jonathan white, Dec 25, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2020
  25. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    The MAX is the latest and best of the Vulcan designs.

    The Z axis screws should be 8mm threaded rod, not acme lead screws. the 8mm threaded rod has a 1.25mm pitch. the 20tooth pulleys driven by a 16 tooth pulley motor delivers 1mm pitch. That guarantees consistent layer heights since the stepper will always land on a Full Step regardless of what the layer height is or what microstep you use for smooth, quiet movement. Full steps are physical locations in a stepper motor, any calibration other that to full step is inherently impossible to achieve, by the motor's design. Acme screws are used for delivering high torque. The threads on an acme screw are no more accurate than on a stainless steel threaded rod, it just looks that way.

    Not sure what bearings you're referring to. or what a 'white' bearing would be.
     
  26. Jonathan white

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    thank you keith, so the x axis is 2 x 8mm is the bed screw 8mm also
     
  27. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    The bed is run by a 2GT belt, not a screw
     
  28. Jonathan white

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    Great I get it now thanks for helping me Keith

    I don't have a printer at the moment, is there any brackets that are available to buy for the fixings on the x axis bar fot the hot end and fixings.
    Really impressed with this design think it's the ultimate.
    I'm from the UK BTW are the plastic parts available to buy or Maby I could get them printed somewhere Maby
    Thank you
     
    #88 Jonathan white, Dec 25, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2020
  29. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Considering shipping to UK you would be best off downloading the STL files and finding a local printer to do the job.

    All printed parts should be done with PLA Plus, which is easy to print and tough as ABS. No parts require rafts or supports. An Entire set can be printed in an afternoon on an 8"x8" bed, or overnight on a 12"x112" bed.
     
  30. Jonathan white

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    Thanks so much
     
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