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Voxel OX 3D Printer

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Marshall Peck, Sep 27, 2015.

  1. Beppe

    Beppe New
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    I should ask a help: I should calculate the size of the printer profiles in order to have a 'print area of 400 x 400 x 500 mm (xyz), can you help me? thanks a lot Beppe
     
  2. Marshall Peck

    Marshall Peck Journeyman
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    I'm a little bit slow with posting new pictures, but our friend Hans' (aka thehans)Voxel OX he built printed all of his recent makes on thingiverse.
    Check em' out here:
    thehans's Thingiverse Profile
     
  3. Slobberknocker

    Slobberknocker Journeyman
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    20160113_204007.jpg 20160113_203827.jpg 20160113_203936.jpg 20160113_203757.jpg 20160113_203915.jpg 20160113_205240.jpg 20160113_203925_001.jpg 20160113_203833.jpg 20160113_203853.jpg
    Hope its ok, but I decided to share some pictures and changes I made to this design.
    Compared to my Makerfarm 12" i3V, its much larger. Its set to print a volume of 400mmx400mmx400mm.
    Take a look and see what you think. The most notable change was to move the z axes to the sides, off of the x carriage to avoid z banding.
     
  4. Marshall Peck

    Marshall Peck Journeyman
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    Aswesome!!!
     
  5. Marshall Peck

    Marshall Peck Journeyman
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    Been doing some re-tooling too. thehans brought over some slick 12v LED strip quite honestly, was a much overlooked asset. Also, a new sensor mount that uses a flexture rather than the silly springy thing I devised so so long ago. Here's the link on the probe mount. Should work on a lot of printers.
    Z-Probe Mount w/ fine adjust flexure by thehans

    Here's some pics of a new variant I just put together this evening. May call it... Voxel OX-c or something like that.

    cool to see other people's iterations!
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Ethan Brown

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    Great design! I don't know if I'm missing something, but I was looking at the cad files and couldn't seem to understand how the 2020 pieces attached to the X gantry plate for the universal extruder mount.

    I plan on building one of these soon!!
    Thanks!
     
  7. Marshall Peck

    Marshall Peck Journeyman
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    The short 20x20 pieces that hold up the extruder?

    They're tapped on the ends and screwed in with 8mm or 10mm m5 low profile 2 holes above the the wheels.
     
  8. brettmc1121

    brettmc1121 Well-Known
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    Marshall the C beam version is awesome! I can't see from the pictures but I'm assuming your X axis is going to be leadscrew driven as well?

    also wondering if you could give us an update on how it worked out with the spindle for milling...
     
  9. Slobberknocker

    Slobberknocker Journeyman
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    Here are some pictures of the print quality for those wondering what this design is capable of. I had to twist the drive belts at the idler end of both the X and Y axes. The machine is so ridged, I was actually getting some "ghosting" from the belt teeth running on the smooth idlers. I ran a z wobble test to see what it would do all the way up to the 300 mm mark. Looks real good. I have a 400mm silicon heater on order, so for now Im just printing on blue tape.
    20160123_160543.jpg 20160122_142833.jpg 20160123_171356.jpg 20160123_171837.jpg 20160123_171349.jpg 20160123_171518.jpg
     
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  10. Ethan Brown

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    Nice prints! Almost all of the parts for mine have arrived, these pictures made me even more excited!
     
  11. runninfarmer

    runninfarmer Veteran
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    Love the build! Simple and rigid. Ever tried using one motor to drive two screws on the z-axis? It's clear you don't need to since you have some awesome prints, just thinking about doing a similar build with one z-axis motor.
     
  12. Slobberknocker

    Slobberknocker Journeyman
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    1 z motor would work fine depending on the size and weight of your x carriage and beam. Mine is about 470 mm long and I will eventually run duel extruders so 2 will give me a little more head room. Also keep in mind that running the auto bed level feature will work your z motors harder than without.
     
  13. Marshall Peck

    Marshall Peck Journeyman
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    The x-axis is still belt driven. Haven't gone back to a lead screw driven X/Y since the first printer I built. Reasons being:
    • Arduino MEGAs aren't fast enough to keep up with 1/16 or 1/32 micro stepping going over 80mm/sec with 4 start lead screw. Too many steps, to process. It actually freezes the arduino occasionally while printing. That's not necessarily a print-stopper, but annoying for sure.
    • Because of above, micro stepping has to be reduced to 1/8 on at least one axis making it super loud.
    • Anti-backlash nuts weren't available from OpenBuilds until recently and there aren't many other affordable sources.
    • Lead screw isn't really necessary if your belts are tight. No noticeable backlash in ours.
    ****Other updates*****
    I updated the Voxel OX Dropbox link for STLs and STEP files to include a better x-idler.
    Dropbox - Voxel Ox 3D Printable Parts
    It uses the same flanged bearings as before. Credit #thehans for taking the initiative. Also made a modification for fitting to c-beam. Probably useful for other builds too.
    x idler.png x-idler for c-beam.png
     

    Attached Files:

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  14. OrigamiB

    OrigamiB Well-Known
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    Love the design and I'm looking to build one next month myself! Have you tried any dual extruder set ups for this? I'm concerned that the size of the gantry plates could never fit 2 extruders without too much sticking out, and thus limiting print size.

    I'm also considering doing a horizontal x carriage using 2x pieces of 20x20 v slot for the axis, so that the hot end can sit between them for a bit of a neater configuration. Will try and get some drawings up here at some point to show you what I mean
     
  15. Marshall Peck

    Marshall Peck Journeyman
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    I haven't done a dual extruder yet, but there's definitely lots of options. The gantry is plenty strong enough to add more extrusion to.
     
  16. Ryan James

    Ryan James Journeyman
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    Love the c-beam for the frame. I'm sure there is much more rigidity. I was curious about whether your X was screw driven as I was worried about speed. Now, to convince the Mrs. that I need to start ordering parts soon.


    If space is a concern, you can always try this option: Cyclops/Chimera (Dual Extrusion Hotends) | Filastruder. I've never used either one but I'm finding the idea interesting.
     
  17. OrigamiB

    OrigamiB Well-Known
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    I have considered the Chimera, but to be honest the limiting factor is the extruder. I've opted for direct drive, but even then 2 nema 17's take up alot of space. I've considered a bowden set up but I havn't found a decent solution to the backlash, if there even is one.
     
  18. Woob i san

    Woob i san Well-Known
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    What open build plate is used to mount the motor to the back of the X axis? because it really doesn't show it and the .step file doesnt help all that much.
     
  19. Ryan James

    Ryan James Journeyman
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    According to the parts list it is Threaded Rod Plate™ for Nema 17 Stepper Motor.
     
  20. Ethan Brown

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    I printed the extruder in the project files because my current one doesn't mount the way I want it to, and was wondering (this is probably an extremely nooby question) what hardware is needed? Which bearings was it designed for (Nvm, I think you intend to use the wheel bearings), and what hobbed bolt should I use?

    Thanks! I have built every part of this printer, but don't have an extruder yet for it. It seems incredibly awesome, I'm using an Azteeg x5 mini as a control board with 1/64th microstepping, and this thing is INCREDIBLY quiet and seems to be super accurate.
     
    #50 Ethan Brown, Feb 5, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2016
  21. apburner

    apburner Journeyman
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    Really do want to build this one. Gonna just buy 5 20 x 80 x 500 mm and 1 20 x 60 x 500 mm and start from there. Where did your get you extruder. I have no printer to make one myself.
     
  22. OrigamiB

    OrigamiB Well-Known
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    Find someone to print it is the best option. There is usually a local makerspace with a printer. If not, use a direct drive extruder such as mk8 which has the the hotend with it, or buy the adapter plate for an E3D. You can mount the motor directly to a gantry plate with mounting holes on the motor, or buy one of the metal motor brackets off ebay.. They only cost a few quid
     
  23. Marshall Peck

    Marshall Peck Journeyman
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    I can print one for you. After all, it's what I do!
    send me a message via www.protobuilds.com
    :)
     
  24. Marshall Peck

    Marshall Peck Journeyman
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    50 micron (.05mm) is definitely dooable with this printer. I've printed objects at that layer height just fine. The main issue you'll run into at that layer height is going to be less printer limited and more slicer FFF/FDM process limiting. With lower than .1mm, you're likely to run into bed adhesion issues. First layers should be increased up in height and thickness to compensate. You will certainly need more top and bottom layers and more dense infill otherwise those thin print lines will collapse into the model. In general lower layer height will require more material to print nicely. Of course, that does depend on the model somewhat.
     
  25. Marshall Peck

    Marshall Peck Journeyman
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    ***Update on hardware kits***
    The other day we sent out the first fully boxed hardware kit via special request! there's maybe half a dozen Voxel OXs' out in the wild. Looks like another one's joining the heard :)

    We've been pretty shy about selling kits, but now there's about half dozen out in the wild (not counting all the awesome user builds).

    This started as just a way to contribute something useful in the medium-duty DIY CNC community. Very grateful for the kind words of encouragement and comments on the forum. Ya'll make this hobby really awesome :)

    Marshall and Gabi - Prototbuilds.com

    P.S. Keep letting us know if you're interested in kits!
     

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  26. brettmc1121

    brettmc1121 Well-Known
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    Finally have my voxel OX up and running. Would recommend this build for sure. major improvement over my prusa i3 that it replaced.

    Overall construction went smoothly, aside from a m5 tap brea king off inside my Z rail. ended up building it with 3 wheels on one side but for 3d printing I can't see it making a difference.

    Extruder is direct drive Dyze, a new canadian Manurfacture that I decided to try out.. really great design had no problems at all.
    Dyze Design DyzeXtrudeur for 1.75 mm filaments

    I also used a printed Y motor and Idler mount designed by Sonny Lowe for a different project.
    Folger-Tech Y-Carriage | OpenBuilds

    Here is a small album:
    Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
     
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  27. Ryan James

    Ryan James Journeyman
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    Quick question. Does your BOM include parts for the Wade extruder?
     
  28. Ryan James

    Ryan James Journeyman
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    Question withdrawn. I finally figured out how to open the drawing and look at the parts.
     
  29. Marshall Peck

    Marshall Peck Journeyman
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    Here's a 10x10x16" Voxel OX 3D printer. This one will have a dual extruder and be the first bowden setup I'll have put together.
    Got one of these for the hotend:
    Chimera
     

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  30. Adam Filipowicz

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    Im working on a remixed version of this great design. mainly changing to one Z stepper and moving acme screws behind the gantry to maximize X travel
    vozel.jpg
     
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