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TrueUp LZ

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Keith Davis, Oct 6, 2017.

  1. JustinSB

    JustinSB Well-Known
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    I originally ordered an Acrylic I3 from Geeetech. 1/3 of the way through the build, I realised that every single bit of Acrylic had been cut out slightly off true. All the 90° angles were actually around 87° instead - so nothing would fit properly or line up. They replaced that pile with a Pro W instead (because I asked them nicely). Every single rod in the Pro W was off true. Every single one! Plus, the threaded rods were also bent, just to add to the fun - & the "tolerances" on the wooden frame were horrifyingly bad. I managed to nearly stabilise the Z-axis through replacing the threaded rods with lead screws (dirt cheap Chinese eBay ones, which were sooo much better than the stock Geeetech junk) & using lots of collars. The X & Y are currently a work in progress (my new X-axis rods should arrive on Friday), although with every month that passes, it's getting better. It cost me £150 originally, & I've now spent between an extra £150 & £200 on top getting it working (my genuine E3D hotend & extruder weren't cheap, but I put them on & they worked perfectly, first time, & they instantly fixed all of my extruder & hotend problems, so they were worth every penny). On the plus side, I have been working on a very detailed Amazon review of what they sold me, with timelines & in-depth descriptions of just how crap it was, plus all the extra costs that I have incurred. It was the least that I could do...

    In my opinion, if you buy really long lengths of really cheap stainless steel rod, ie 5 or 6m, then pick them up in the middle rather carelessly with a crane. Manhandle them a little bit more, drop them on an uneven concrete floor, then cut them up into 400mm & 600mm lengths, you should get exactly this effect...

    I really regret ever having bought anything from Geeetech. Thankfully, now I know (just about) enough to build my own - which I can then slap my E3D hotend & extruder on & I'll be laughing.
     
  2. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Builder

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    Keith Davis and JustinSB like this.
  3. JustinSB

    JustinSB Well-Known
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    Thanks @Rick 2.0 - this site looks really interesting.
     
    Amateur Maker and Keith Davis like this.
  4. Poprocketx86

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    This Broken Bed Spring Link may have been reported:
    http://www.centuryspring.com/Store/item_detail.php?StockNumber=3712
    I just purchased one of your A6 kits. (User name here is not the same as paypal email) from Moore, OK. I think your kit will work much better as long as the disconnected motor doesn't act like a spring.
     
  5. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Master
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    The disconnected motor has no power, so it is freewheeling and acts only as a pillowblock holding bearings. The coupling "spring" is under no stress.

    Thanks for the purchase Roy. I'm shipping that this morning.
     
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  6. Poprocketx86

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    Wow Keith, that was fast. USPS reported they were in possession of my kit. Thanks
     
  7. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Master
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    Yeah, I forgot to add the USPS tracking number earlier [ **removed by moderator** ]
     
    #37 Keith Davis, Feb 2, 2019
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 2, 2019
  8. Poprocketx86

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    I received my A6 upgrade kit today. I must say your prints are really top notch. Caliper says no differences side to side or piece to piece.
    Very impressed.
    Just in time for tear down as my A6 Mboard gave up the ghost yesterday. Not sure what to replace it with as another ANet Mboard seems like it will
    happen again.
     
  9. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Master
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    The real problem with using a different Mboard is the mounting holes in the board will have to match at least two of the printer's mount holes. And the USB wills need to be in a usable location when mounted.

    But, first, determine what burned out on the current Mboard. If the heatbed is not working, there is a way to avoid that with a new board. To do that you buy a MOSFET. The power from the power supply runs through the MOSFET to the bed. The board's power outlet for the bed then is connected to a switch on the MOSFET to toggle it on and off. That is the most common board failure. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5HBFX If you buy a 2-pack you can do the same for the hotend.
     
  10. Poprocketx86

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    Well looks like the Mboard problem turned out to be a PS problem. For some reason it will only output 2.9v. Strange, but easier to replace.
     
  11. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Master
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    The PSU failure is a common Anet problem. They use the cheapest they can find.
     
  12. Marcelo Lafarciola

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    Do you already have the parts list?
     
  13. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Master
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  14. Marcelo Lafarciola

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    I want to build this one
     
  15. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Master
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  16. Marcelo Lafarciola

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    Do you know what is the final price?
     
  17. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Master
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    My cost-of-goods for a TrueUP LZ is about $450. But I buy a lot of the parts in bulk, so it may be $50 more for the each.
     

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