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TrueUp Kit Version

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Keith Davis, Mar 24, 2017.

  1. Brian Semrau

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    Is it possible to get the 3D model of the TrueUp Kit version as .ipt or .stp? I'm hoping to make a few modifications to my printer.
     
  2. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    BRian

    At the bottom of the Build page are the URLs for TrueUp STL files. Your .stp software should be able to import .stl files.
     
  3. Brian Semrau

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    I'm using Inventor to modify parts and I can't import STL files to make actual modifications to the original parts.
     
  4. Reanimator2k

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    Brian Semrau
    stl files can be converted to solid in Fusion 360.
    Also there are link to skp (SketchUp) files.
    You can obtain SketchUp and Fusion 360 for free and import/export any part to various formats. Fusion 360 can export to stp.
     
  5. JackNorris

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    Got the nylon nut issues sorted, thanks :) Turns out that they were indeed the issue.

    In regards to the build plate I think I may be missing something but I can't seem to find any measurements for drilling the build plate (I've got an openbuilds build plate at the moment). Is the build plate in the SKP file set dimensionally accurate so I can take them from that?

    Thanks
     
  6. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Two 5mm wheel holes are 60mm from each other. Two 7mm wheel holes are also 60mm from each other. The 5mm pair are 100mm from 7mm pair. All 4 are centered on the center hole in 60x100 rectangle. I think you'll find the ones in the SKP match those figures.
     
  7. Reanimator2k

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    I finally made it. Now it's cleaning, tuning and calibrating time. Thanks to all for support!
    Hera is a thingiverse page with some remixes and addons. Will update it after i done with all *ting things.
    tug.jpg
     
  8. Andy Tucker

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    I'm fascinated by Keith's solution to the print leveling problem! I've got a lot of printer components kicking around, so I'm planning on doing a build from scratch.
    I've printed ABS, PLA, and PETG before, but never Nylon. When I'm choosing a filament is there anything in particular I need to look at in terms of suitability for use as bushings?
    thanks,
    andy
     
  9. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Taulman Alloy 910 is the nylon I used. That's $60 a spool, pretty expensive for 4 little bushings. The bushings can actually be printed in PLA. I used nylon just because it's impressive for commercial sales.
     
  10. Andy Tucker

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    Thanks for the quick reply Keith! I've been interested in giving nylon a go anyway, but $60 WOULD be a bit much just to test the waters. I think I'll try the Taulman 230 - It has good enough specs from Taulman's "How to Choose" chart, and I can get a pound from Filastruder for ~$25 shipped.
     
  11. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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  12. Andy Tucker

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    Hmm, I think I saw that before but forgot about it... Turns out I have some 5/16" acetal rod, which I believe is a better bearing material than PLA.
    thanks again!
     
  13. Steve Jeppesen

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    A month late but just adding to the stl/stp/skp/ipt file issue. While there are ways to get stl files into Inventor and Fusion 360, they end up being pretty pictures for the most part. There is a process to be able to work with stl files in Fusion 360 but as others states they come in with all the triangles. Every time I've gotten a hold of a stl file and want to modify it, I always end up remodeling it in either Inventor or Fusion 360.

    Would be really nice if the big name solid modeling programs out there were able to handle working with stl files better than they can today. Seems they focus solely on being able to export to stl for the most part.
     
  14. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Suggestion, runthe stl through netfabb for cleanup first. Netfabb may standardize internals. I don't know, just a guess as netfabb is the defacto stl standard.

    Netfabb Online Service
     
  15. DA98520

    DA98520 New
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    Noticed in the BoM that you have a bunch of M3 screws, i believe, listed but no vendor. Also what style are these screws? Some builds i know head height makes a difference
     
  16. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    M3 and M4 screws are buttonhead. On 2 extruder motor screws and lever screw, and 4 bed corner adjuster screws I use socketheads.
     
  17. Andy Tucker

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    I started printing parts for the TrueUp Kit Version, working on parts more or less in the order of the build steps in the "kit-manual3" directory. This morning I noticed that the next parts I wanted to print didn't match the printed parts display. I started looking through this thread again and noticed Keith's post about new parts for v2 being in the "kit-manual2" folder. Sure enough, there are updated parts for v3 as well, but I've been using the STL's from "3dwrx.com/TrueUp/kit-stl.zip", which is of course from the 1st version! (duh!)
    As far as I can tell, the parts I've printed so far have not changed, but maybe there is a subtle change in a part or two. Attached is a pic of the parts I have so far.
    Keith, can you tell me if any of those parts have changed?
    thanks, andy
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    There have been no changes to the parts you have there.
     
    Laurent Leblanc likes this.
  19. Andy Tucker

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    Thanks, I'll keep on printing!
     
  20. DA98520

    DA98520 New
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    What is the spacing required for the wheels on the mount plate for heated bed? Does the openbuilds plate have required spacing or need to be drilled?
     
  21. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    The holes need to be drilled on the universal build plate
    [​IMG]
     
  22. pm_cz

    pm_cz New
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    Hello Keith and everybody. When I was buying replacement frame to replace the acrylic one on my original printer I ordered extra 2020 & 2040 extrusions with my mind on an X and Z axis upgrade and other designs in future. After that I started thinking about single-motor dual axis solution and I found this printer. I must say I am really impressed with the ideas which went into its design (I was a little afraid if the stability is good due to the elevated base frame, but I suppose the PSU and electronics cover act as stabilising elements. As it would probably not be feasible for me to order the kit (customs, shipping around the world, etc.), I have decided to collect the parts myself and use some extras I already have acquired.

    I would like to ask some questions I did not find answers for in this thread:
    1. I was unable to order 2060 extrusion originally here in EU, can it be replaced with 2040+2020 combination or will the frame bottom be less rigid because of that? If not, I suppose 2060 standard slot which I can order here will also work or I will find something on eBay.
    2. Is there anything else missing in the BOM (I was cross-checking the DIY and Kit version but they presently appear similar) besides the 4x 8mm ID Lock Collars I found when studying the instructions?
    3. Is it really necessary to use the low profile M5 screws, or will locally ordered stainless M5 screws with a head about 1mm thicker suffice?
    4. I found a local source of Nylon round rod (we use the name Silon here) which would be cheaper than to order it from across the world (hopefully it will be nice enough for the task or could be de-burred), but besides it, they also carry PFTE (TEFLON) rod of the same diameter. I wonder if it would not be better for this application (although slightly more expensive, since the needed quantity is so low, it would probably not influence much the total price), or am I missing something I did not take into consideration here?

    Regards
     
  23. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    1. A 20x40 works. Leave the bottom 20mm empty (attach at the same height as if it was a 20x60). I use a 20x40 on my workshop printers - no problem
    2. that should be correct.
    3. No, I use regular button head screws, the low-profile just look better
    4. Any nylon round, or teflon will work since they are self-lubricating. The only property that's important is rigidity, that round pressing against the v-slot is what gives the glide it's strength. There is really no wear there. My prototype for this used a PLA round and it has 2,000 hours on it with no wear.

    Because people are having trouble getting the nylon glides setup right so there is no wobble to the X axis, I'm working on a version that uses linear bearings/rods for the Z axis. I should have a BOM and assembly manual sometime later this week.

    [​IMG]
     
  24. ensari cokur

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    This is a very bad engineered printer. Wasted money on this printer. I tried almost a month to make it work but useless. I have other printers as well but this is such a dissappointment.
     
  25. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Sorry to hear that Ensari

    The main problem you communicated to me was in getting the Z axis nylon glides properly seated to eliminate any wobble on the extrusion. I can send you a new set of prints "hand fitted" to overcome that problem.

    OR, if you want, look at the new LZ version
    TrueUp LZ
    which uses linear rods/bearings for the Z axis (you are not the only one who's had problems getting the nylon glides set up correctly). If you want, I can ship you the prints to convert over to the linear rods (you'd have to purchase the rods/bearings - I have a source).
     
  26. ensari cokur

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    Ok, I am going to list all the problems I had;

    1. Z axis lead screws were packed together and the teeth rubbed each other the nut was not going up and down. It should have been packed separately.
    2. Z axis lock collar set screws were too long and was grinding the Z axis motor support and Lead screw support and it was not letting the screw to turn.
    3. Z axis upper support is not concentric with the screw. I have to put a thick spacer to align it other wise it is bending the screw. Actually totally not going in.
    3. The second lock collar was rubbing to the Z axis limit switch holder making it impossible to jog the Z axis.
    4. The head has a bobbing problem never fixed. I super glued Glides to the bushings. This helped a little but the problem is, the bushings doesn't perfectly fit to the glides. No matter how tight the set screw is it wobbles.
    5. Extruded temp sensor was damaged.
    6. Extruder stepper motor cable is to short and doesn't reach to the board and I had to cut it and extend it.
    7. Power supply cables for the switch is too short and doesn't reach.
    8. Extruder motor cables are in a wrong order and motor just rattles and doesn't move the filament. I had to re arrange them.
    9. Y axis belt holding solution is a really bad design.
    10. X axis limit switch doesn't get triggered. I had to modify.
    11. Marlin board cover doesn't line up. If you line the holes you cant use the USB port.
    12. Z axis steps are set to 3221. It should be 1600. I haven't even checked X and Y because I m too frustrated.

    When you are having all kinds of problems and you ask for a refund/return Keith doesn't accept it because he can't afford it. This is not how business is done. You have to get some responsibility.
     
  27. Steve Jeppesen

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    wow, just need to say that I'd had one of Keith's OneZ i3 custom printer now for almost a yr and a half with no problems other than what I caused myself. Added a volcano extruder to it almost a couple months ago and that was the last time I had to think about leveling the bed. Print alloy 910 almost daily with no worries. Still working on that 3d printed trailer. Seems changes happen daily with that too!

    Just sent a note to Keith the other day staying in touch;

    quote;
    still printing many parts.

    Have not touched bed leveling in monrhs, last time I did was due to the volcano nozzle update and other than that it's something I don't think about till now and that's just to confirm what I already know...ie, it's all level still. Ordered some Taulman PCTPE Black Nylon and some black alloy 910. will be interesting to see if I can print the PCTPE without warping, if so I may just switch to that.Taulman PCTPE Black Nylon

    print shown below is .3mm total height, 200mm square test model downloaded from thingyverse.

    printed with taulman 645 black 1.75mm filament
    0.8mm dia nozzle
    25mm print speed (remember, I'm not interested in printing fast...)
    0.15mm layer height
    1 layer skirt showing exactly like I expected it to, first couple inches bare and after that full stream of melted 645 nylon.
    printing onto dry 1/32" thk garolite adhered to 12" x 12" mirror, ie. print and peel off bed and no clean up other than occasional iso-alcohol rub down.

    printed exactly like I expected it to, perfect!

    upload_2017-10-22_11-22-40.png
     
  28. Twopan

    Twopan New
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    Hi Keith, I've been printing up some of the stl's from the Bold zip and the center feet stl with the 2 little round feet isn't quite right. One of the feet is floating in midair just a tiny bit. I fixed it for me so no big deal but thought I'd let you know.
    Jim
     
  29. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Splitting all of the pieces up into individual parts in Slic3r will automatically place them all on the same plane. I usually do that to a multipart STL then save that as the STL to publish. Looks like I missed that one.
     
  30. kennytent

    kennytent New
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    Can someone point me in the right direction for a good tutorial on flashing the board with Marlin.

    I have the printer built, but I am now trying to load the marlin onto the board. I am a complete newb at this, building and fabricating, I have no problem working through issues.

    If someone could point me in the correct direction, would be great. Without doubt, I'm doing something wrong here, I keep coming up with a {error pasting “/*bed*/” and “_rport” does not give valid preprocessing token}.

    Nice build, by the way, took me a bit of time getting mixed up with the different versions, but the discussions, across the different builds have been very helpful in resolving most of the issues I ran into.
     

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