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Stainless OX

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Martin.Barfoed, Mar 25, 2015.

  1. Joe Santarsiero

    Joe Santarsiero OB addict
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    Let's not overlook the strength to weight ratio. ;)
     
  2. Steven Bloom

    Steven Bloom Journeyman
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    According to what I read stainless is approximately 2.5 x stronger then aluminum. So 4mm of stainless = 10mm of aluminum
     
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  3. Joe Santarsiero

    Joe Santarsiero OB addict
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    That's right Steve. The aluminum will weigh less of the two because of its higher strength to weight ratio. This is something to consider in machine design.

    Online metals has a great weight calculator. Check it out and throw in some numbers.
    http://www.onlinemetals.com/calculator.cfm

    Joe
     
  4. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Journeyman
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    I have made an alternative design of the inner plates to make them less heavy. I have split them in two parts.
    One that holds the wheels together (the star? shaped). It’s supposed to be made out of Stainless steel, aluminum or the like.
    The other part is a dust shield that should be fitted on the four top screws to prevent dust from going into the dual belt sandwich. This plate should be made out of e.g. 3mm transparent acrylic. I have added a .skp file to the File section.
    Star Innerplates.png
     
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  5. P. ry

    P. ry New
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    Working on designing a similar build. Does anyone have any thoughts on mounting the y-axis dual belts on the bottom of the 80mm x 20mm? Would their be an issue with belt "falling" out of the slot? or would the tension and/or friction of the belt in slot opening prevent this from becoming an issue?
     
  6. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Journeyman
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    Hi P

    I do not see that this could not be done. Obvious advantage would be that debris would not get into the belt sandwich. The fixed (taped on) belt will of course not be a problem however, I would expect the loose belt to hang down somewhat - especially when the gantry is close to either ends. This should as such not be a problem as the V-wheels on the gantry should get it back up.

    The main disadvantage I can see is that you will need to have the stepper under of the 20x80. This will lift up the machine and (as I see it) require that the gantry plate size will be bigger.

    If your main concern is debris how about making/getting some bellows to cover the belt?

    Please let us know if you proceed with the design. I'm sure many here will find the learning's interesting.
     
  7. Priit Paat

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    Hi!

    Starting my first ox build and i have one issue. I have set A to slave to Y, but A(Y1) not moving when running on sample g-code. In jogging mode or when i press computer arrows then Y and A moves together nicely.
    Are there difference on g-code or something Mach3 setting or..? Are there special gcode if one motor is slaved?

    Using Win7 32bit
    SainSmart 4 Axis Mach3 USB CNC Motion Controller Card Interface Breakout Board
    SainSmart TB6600 CNC Micro-Stepping Stepper Motor Driver 4.5A
    Nema23 stepper motor

    all the best,
    Priit
     
  8. Paruk

    Paruk Journeyman
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    Excellent example of "Penny wise, pound foolish". SainSmart is a true piece of crap as you easily will find on almost any website and web store involved with CNC. It will not work with Mach3.
     
  9. Steven Bloom

    Steven Bloom Journeyman
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    can you tell me what g-codes you are having a problem with . I have a blue bob board and its perfect. Mine is parallel. I see you have a usb one. You may be better off just spending $16 and getting the parallel one.

    Thanks Steven
     
  10. Priit Paat

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    Tested all g-code in Mach3\GCode folder.
    I think they(Sainsmart) sell hacked Mach3, maybe there is a problem. So not want to buy legal copy, before 100% sure it working on Sainsmart hardware.
    I added the attached files.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Journeyman
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    I have tried Leafboy77 AKZ250 USB board and came to the same conclution - that it did not support slave axis.
    There is a check box in Mach3 that took me a while to find. It's under general config "Home slave w Master". Not sure that it will fit the problem you describe but it has to be checked for homing to work with slave axis. Check this video at 5:50:
     
  12. Priit Paat

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    I've already been to look at all of your videos, and I'm very grateful for them. Keep up good work!
    "Home slave w Master" have checked, but no luck.
     
  13. Priit Paat

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    I do not have a parallel port on my laptop?
    Is it getting any working transitions cables LPT to USB?
     
  14. Paruk

    Paruk Journeyman
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    Those will give problems, too. Best is, you change to a proper USB solution (not cheap, at least $ 150 and up) or get yourself a cheap old pentium pc with a parallel port on it. Before you decide, read the various fora about it here and on CNC Zone and the like.
     
  15. Steven Bloom

    Steven Bloom Journeyman
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    No that does not work. I bought a new computer from parts on newegg. I got a mini ilx setup with parallel port, 4 gigs ram, ssd HD and case for only 220$. It works perfect with win 7 32 bit
     
  16. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Journeyman
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    Agree, an old piece of junk PC is the cheapest solution. Then you just need a $10 parallel breakout board.

    I found this alternative (not cheap as Poul states ($120)) using USB. They claim to support most/all Mach3 functions. You can check it out on the links below. Here is the list of, claimed, supported functions

    Supported Mach3 functions:


    - Jog.

    - Reference inputs.

    - E-stop input.

    - Softlimits.

    - Limit switch inputs.

    - Limits override.

    - Index input (extended function supports multi slot spindle sensors,


    for Mach3-mill only, not for Mach3-turn!).

    - Spindle speed PWM control output.

    - Step and direction spindle control output.

    - Spindle and coolant relay control.

    - Charge pump safety signal output (configurable to active/inactive when in E-stop).

    - Charge pump adjustable frequency (12.50kHz in normal or 5kHz in laser mode).

    - All signals configurable to active High/Low.

    - General purpose I/O signals handling.

    - Offline mode.

    - All MPGs and encoders support. (2pcs maximum one time)

    - Slave axis.

    - Backlash compensation.

    - Digit/probe input.

    - THC control inputs.

    CNCdrive - motion controls
    CNC USB CONTROLLER UC100 for Mach3 CNC Controller USB to Parallel
     
  17. Priit Paat

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    **** it, I just gave away an old computer :)
    Thank you guys, now I need to read a little about those two solutions.
     
  18. Priit Paat

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    MAch3MDItab.jpg
    Did you mean MDI tab?
    Input type A10, then only A stepper motor moves and Y10, then moves only Z stepper motor.
     
  19. Dave C

    Dave C New
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    Looks great Martin! although I do have one suggestion - Change the name Stainless OX to 'inOX' :)
     
  20. Priit Paat

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    Sorry JustinTime, Y10 and only Y moves.

    Do not want to clutter the thread of another persona and moving my little board problem to my build discussions thread:
    E OX | OpenBuilds
     
  21. ZuFoto

    ZuFoto New
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    Hi,
    I want to thank you for sharing your experience. I're doing a great job.
    I was very impressed by the belt system. I have a question regarding this subject... In the video you said you used a GT2 belt... In the "Part List" you also put a GT2 belt, but the link is for a GT3 one. Also, in the "Part List" you put a GT3 pulley. What kind of belt/pulley did you used?
     
  22. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Journeyman
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    Hi Zu
    You are right - that's confusing. I use GT3 pulleys and belts- They are stronger and thicker. The sandwich of two fits extremely will in the groowe in the rail. So I reccomend you to use that.
    I'm still very satisfied with the dual belt configuration. Having used it for half a year now no adjustments to the tention has been needed.
    Good luck, Martin
     
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  23. ZuFoto

    ZuFoto New
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    Hi again
    First of all, I want to thank you for your quick answer.
    Second... I have more questions :)
    What controller are you using?
    I saw you used 4 proximity switches. I guess 2 for "x" and 2 for "y" axes. How did you wired them on the controller? I also saw you used one micro switch. I guess it was for the "z" axis. How did you wired it on the controller? I mean how many wires and which goes where (like for stupid people)
    I saw you have a 24V power supply. What "Wattage" is it?
    Also, I saw you made a X-Carve CNC. Which do you like better? Which controller/stepper system do you prefer? The arduino based or the mach3 (chinese steppers and controller)?
    Hope I'm not bothering you with my stupid questions...

    Regards,
     
    #53 ZuFoto, Jan 27, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2016
  24. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Journeyman
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    Hi Zu
    No problem, I will try to answer as best as I can.
    The controller I use is DM542A, you can find them on e-bay. I got something like this kit (with one PSU only): German Ship 4Axis Nema 23 Stepper Motor 270oz-in &Driver DM542A 4.2A CNC MillKIT
    Yes, I use 4 switches, 2 on X and 2 on Y. Each pair is wired in parallel. Each SW has 3 wires brown, blue and black The same color are put together and connected to the break out board. For Z I used a micro SW due to the small size. In the file section on the build you can find my diagram "Wiring of OX.pdf". With X and Y in parallel you only need 3 inputs to connect all 5 switches.
    I think I have 300W PSU.
    The X-Carve is a great starter machine and as you can see from my videos you can make stuf with it. However, I prefer the OX for its much higher mechanical stability. Likewise, I prefer Mach3 based systems over Arduino/grbl. Mach3 is mch more flexible and you can do much more with it. You can also get other controllers than the Chinese stuff. Many people says the Gecko G540 is a great controller with very smooth steps. I havn't tried it though.
    Best regards, Martin
     
  25. Tom Allen

    Tom Allen New
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    Hello, Martin,
    Just wanted to add my encouragement and cheer you for a great build. It shows your commitment to good workmanship and technical knowledge.
    Please continue to keep us in the loop as you produce a terrific machine.
    Best regards,
    Tom
     
  26. Serge E.

    Serge E. Journeyman
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    Martin's is definitely sweet ... and most likely very precise. The one I did ... call it a prototype ... is out of MDF and lines up with three 'dog holes' made into the table with myOX. It creates a long straight edge along with the reference corner. So everything lines up real nice. If it gets damaged, it only takes 'minutes' to cut a new one ... It's working great thus far.
     
  27. ZuFoto

    ZuFoto New
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    Hi again Martin,

    First of all I want to thank you for sharing with us... I finished my CNC following your instructions.
    The size of mine is 1500x1000 mm. I use 4 nema 23 motors, 4 ST-M5045 drivers (similar with yours), one similar controller and a 24V, 400W power supply. I used mechanical limit switches. The main difference is that I used 10 mm acrylic plates (actually 2 x 5 mm glued together) instead of your stainless ones. I choose this solution because I have a small CO2 laser and I made them myself with the intention the make them later from aluminum with the CNC. I have a 6mm plate... it is a AW-5083 Al Mg4.5 Mn0.7
    Here I want to ask for your help... I tried with various bits, but no success. It seems that I'm not using the right combination of Spindle speed (a Kress 1050 FME-1) Cut depth, Plunge, Feed rate. I used a 2 flutes, Carbide coated aluminum end mill, 3,157 mm bit that I broke. I also use a 3 flutes 6mm bit....
    Please, can you give me some guides? I'm really stuck here and the internet is full on contradictory information.
     
  28. Paruk

    Paruk Journeyman
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    Check Youtube for XYZ CNC for milling 16mm aluminium with in the video text about settings. There is more from the same guy and others. It should give you a good idea. The link XYZ CNC
     
  29. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Journeyman
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    Hi Zu
    Here is what I have done when milling aluminum successfully.
    Kress 1050 Speed Dial set to 4-5.
    Bit: 2 Flute special Aluminum bit. Hi end Danish quality bit - not a Chinese ebay thing. Try to find a quality bit in your area (e.g. Onsrud in the US).
    Feed rate 250mm/min
    Plunge rate 100mm/min
    Depth Increment 0.4 mm
    If possible in you CAM software try to add a lead in ramp/spiral to lower the stress on the bit when entering the material

    Some time ago I posted a video on milling aluminum. In that I use the much smaller X-Carve and the result was great. Check it out if you like:

    I hope you will have success with you next attempt.

    Best wishes, Martin
     
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  30. Rob Mitchell

    Rob Mitchell Well-Known
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    Martin, I've downloaded the zero center file and opened in SketchUp 2015. I also watched your YouTube video describing how you made it. What you did not show were the steps exporting the file from SketchUp to be able the cut the material. Can you shed some light on that process.

    Thanks
     

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