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Router to Spindle Upgrade

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Dale Stewart, Apr 16, 2021.

  1. Dale Stewart

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    I'm looking into moving from a router to a spindle on my cnc. My research seems to show that there is another control device that is needed with a spindle. Does anyone know of a spindle that would function much like my router - plug it in and turn in on? I have the Openbuilds BlackBox and would like to use the spindle control capability of it. I would like to be able to start and stop the spindle with the job start and stop. My goal would be 110 volts, er20 collets, if such a thing is available. Also, noise isn't a huge issue so air cooled would be fine. Workshop space is limited and the few external components, the better.
     
  2. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
    Staff Member Moderator Builder Resident Builder

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    See docs:blackbox:connect-vfd [OpenBuilds Documentation]
     
  3. Dale Stewart

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    Thanks for the info. Answers my question and now I know what to look for.
     
  4. Kevon Ritter

    Kevon Ritter Veteran
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    You won't be able to make use of an ER20. Look into ER16 as a top end, but even an ER11 can exceed what the v-wheels are capable of. You won't get an ER20 until you get to 2.2kW which is just too much for Openbuilds machines.

    110V limits you to an 800W spindle. You can get a 1.5kW 110V spindle, but you lose torque and draw much more current. Although you get more low end torque from the 1.5kW, the 800W can be used to its fullest, where as the 1.5kW can not.

    If you are running air cooled, you have to keep the RPMs higher. This negates any down low benefit you get from a 1.5kW over the 800W.

    The best overall option for the Openbuilds ecosystem is the new RoutER11 found in the Part Store. Although it is only an ER11, you get the easy of use, setup, and easily swappable collets. You really only need larger end mills for surfacing. You can just use router bits for that. What you mostly get from spindles is a reliable bearing setup. Routers have cheap brash bushings. The RoutER11 has proper bearings.
    RoutER11 CNC Kit
     
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  5. Dale Stewart

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    Thanks for the in depth recommendations. I’m running a BooTech cnc with linear rails and Nema 23 motors. Maximum width is only about 22 inches on the X axis. Weight is a consideration but not a huge one. My biggest reason for considering the change is that I want to be able to use drill bits, thus the lower RPM. After doing some more digging around, the 800W is what I was looking at, both for price and what I would use. The larger collet size really just gave me more options with the tools I already have on hand. ER11 would certainly work fine. I’ll take a look at the one you recommended.
     
  6. Dale Stewart

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    Just took a look at the RoutER11. Better option than what I am using with a greater speed range and the ability to use ER11 collets. Not being in the market for a new CNC (yet), I’ll wait. I can still do the majority of what I want with the current setup. I am unfortunately spoiled because my previous job exposed me to a Techno CNC HDII machine. It has all the bells and whistles and rarely gets used at that job.
     
  7. Kevon Ritter

    Kevon Ritter Veteran
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    With what you said, a 1.5kW may be what you would be after. Just remember the voltage issue.

    The only spindle I know that can go down low is the FM30C (S30C) from CNC Depot. It's a 4 pole ATC Spindle for $4000. Spindles/routers and drilling just aren't a thing. The reduced RPM that you find in mills are from a reduction drive for both torque and speed. For true drilling operations, you're looking at sub 3000rpm. Absolutely nothing is available for that.

    We get around that limitation by interpolating holes with boring operations.
     
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  8. Dale Stewart

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    That is what I have done so far is for holes. I’m using Vcarve Pro and it has a drilling function. I would like to make some cribbage boards. I have some templates and a drill press which is fine as long as the boards fit the templates. This may be a case of using the CNC to mark the hole locations but using a drill press to actually drill the holes. 220v is an option if it comes to that. My workshop is in the basement where the breaker box is located. Running a dedicated line would only be about 10’.
     
  9. Kevon Ritter

    Kevon Ritter Veteran
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    I should clarify something. Everyone is always asking about drilling aluminum and other metals. My mind automatically goes to that. If you are dealing with woods and some plastics (not all), the higher rpm isn't much of an issue. You compensate with plunge rate and pecking.
     
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  10. Dale Stewart

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    I’m only dealing with wood at this stage.
     

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