Hey all been super busy and haven't posted in awhile. My 1515 Table sat for awhile waiting for me to finish my 1515 Lead build. I used MDF for the top surface and noticed a sag of about 1/4 inch in the middle on both half's of the table. So if you want MDF surface I recommend adding 4 extrusions (2 on each side) from the center out to the side. I just decided to swap with 3/4 Ply and then painted it for now.
Hey Eric, maybe you can save me some time. What extrusions should I buy, How long, hardware, etc. I have the table ordered but would like to get the extras ordered now instead of after I get the table and put it all together. Your help would be appreciated.
Im unfortunately back in Oregon and wont be home in FL until the 23rd!!!! So this based off dimensions on the website. If the table is 1720 across thats 860mm for 1/2 way minus 30 mm (10 for half the middle beam and 20 for outside) 830mm for the pieces you need. You would need cast corners and either drop in t-nuts or t-nuts. You could get away with 2040 for the supports. I didn't have time so I just topped the table with 3/4 plywood and it fixed the sag issues. I had some 2040 pieces but I didnt want to cut them (being used for a plasma cut build) Eric
Thanks Eric. That's my problem now. I have self-made table that sags. Hope this new table with the additional pieces will solve the problem.
I love the table and I will say switching from 3/4 MDF to straight 3/4 Ply helped .... I still plan to add at least 1 support on each half but I would suggest for MDF putting in 2 on each half I have my lathe , Mill and now a CNC in a Shed lol ..... humidity is a nightmare in FL so that didnt help. I just ordered a versa-tube 24x30 garage kit
I've been having trouble with my 1515 aluminum channel table sagging under my 1515 Lead machine. I noticed that the outside top rails have sagged at one corner. I tried to loosen the t-nuts, then jack up and retighten those nuts. The front member is good but no matter how much I tighten the nuts on the side member, it doesn't hold and the member sags a good 1/2". This alone translates into a Z-zero of at least 1.5mm (~0.07") in the center of the bed compared to the home corner. I'm covering the table with 1/2" plywood and my spoil board is 3/4" MDF. The main problem I have with my Lead 1515 is flatness of the work material during a job, even with the spoil board flattened using OpenBuilds' Control flattening wizard. So when doing a shallow engrave or profile toolpath in a small area of the job, I'll set the Z-axis zero right at the aria of the toolpath, rather than relying on the zero from the home corner. Johnny
Thanks for the advise. I will certainly look into 3/4 ply instead of MDF. My MDFD on the table I currently use sags a lot. It's winter time, maybe I can use it for firewood. LOL
Interesting Johnny. I will be back in FL the 23rd and I plan on finishing my current settings and tramming Ill report back with my findings then.
