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Prusa i3 Bear Edition

Discussion in '3D printers' started by pek, Sep 21, 2017.

  1. pek

    pek Journeyman
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    I have finish to test all printed parts \o/

    I am now working on a vslot hand cutting tool. I use the Kyo design for this as a base and add some improvements (thanks Kyo if you read me).
     
  2. p.builds

    p.builds New
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    Good news!!
     
  3. p.builds

    p.builds New
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    Which type of saw is better to use? Hand saw, circular saw, miter saw, jig saw?

    I've tried in the past with a jig saw and the results wasn't very promising. The cut needed a lot of sanding to be flat.

    The aluminum extrusion cutting is not the easiest job. I've heard that a lubricant applied to the blade will make the cutting easier. Still trying to find one at local stores.
     
    #33 p.builds, Oct 11, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2017
  4. pek

    pek Journeyman
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    I am not an expert, this is the first time I am cutting aluminum profiles. However, it seems that the best choice is the miter saw. Circular saw works too but better to make a crosscut sled for it.

    There are saw blades that are special for aluminum which helps a lot to get a nice cut.
     
  5. JustinTime

    JustinTime Veteran
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    A crosscut sled, as pek said, is a must for a circular saw but better yet, a miter saw will do a better job.

    If you cut the extrusion you may not need a lubricant but if you want to use one, kerosene/heating oil will do the trick.
     
  6. kyle fossum

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    #36 kyle fossum, Oct 11, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2017
  7. guysnover

    guysnover New
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    Thanks!!!
     
  8. pek

    pek Journeyman
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    Hi all,

    I have build a V-Slot hand cutting tool for those that does not have a miter saw. It and it is very accurate when used properly (means taking time to prepare it). For now it is on Thingiverse only but will come soon here as well : V-Slot Hand Cutting Jig by pekcitron


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    It has been inspired by the awesome work of Kyo : V-Slot Cutting System
     
    #38 pek, Oct 20, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2017
  9. Manicben

    Manicben New
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    Every update gets me even more excited to see the final result! Can't wait to see pics of the built frame. I'm gonna be getting some pre cut v slot extrusions and I'll try out the build too, after the design is finalised and tested.

    Good work mate!
     
  10. pek

    pek Journeyman
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    Thank you for your comment, really appreciate :)
     
  11. pek

    pek Journeyman
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    I have updated the first page :
    - update images with latest printed parts
    - add details about cutting v-slots
    - add details about drilling the frame
    - gives more details on dimensions and printed parts positions
     
    jandd likes this.
  12. pek

    pek Journeyman
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  13. pek

    pek Journeyman
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  14. pek

    pek Journeyman
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    Some early builders found an issue where zip ties head were entering in contact with bed carriage. It is now fixed :)
     
  15. p.builds

    p.builds New
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    Hi,
    Very impressive work till now!

    I've sourced the required V-slot extrusions and accessories. a friend has an available miter-saw to lent me. I will prepare the required 3d-printed parts at the weekend.
    Also, I'm waiting the arrival of a second Z-frame to start the build. :thumbsup:


    Good thought to test for vibrations with the "Vibration a.k.a. ripple a.k.a. shadow a.k.a. ghosting test". I've tested earlier the original printer and I think that the print came out with minor vibration artifacts.

    I suggest to also use the Tall print wobbling test to test for tall object vibrations.
     
  16. pek

    pek Journeyman
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    Thanks for that! Can not wait to see your build!!!

    Too late for the "Tall print wobbling test", I have just finished the build :( . If you would like / have time, you can contribute to the project and adding this test, would be very helpful.

    I am working on PSU parts, almost ready! I can not find the PSU cover stl/scad file that match my MK2s, I suspect it something is different between MK2 and MK2s here, grrrr.

    I have decided to remove the black angle bracket on the alu frame side, too hard to square and I could not see any difference in rigidity (someone p.builds mention that problem in the beginning of the project, he was right :D ).
     
    #46 pek, Nov 10, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2017
  17. pek

    pek Journeyman
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    p.builds mentioned in the beginning that it might be hard to tighten the Z aluminum frame and he was right. After several testing, I decided to remove black angle corners on the frame and rigidity does not seem to be affected, still sturdy. I finished the first build this week-end!

    First results :
    - Feels much sturdy in hand
    - Less noisy
    - Less vibration (my spool was previously shaking a lot during quick movements)
    - Prints are better (less ghosting) on the PSU side. However, it is not that much better on the side of the RAMBo case. This Alu frame is not strong enough. I am pretty sure MK3 will be similar, if not worse.
    - Easier to maintain

    Next steps :
    - I will try to design new motor mounts that will be fixed on both frame and extrusion to make this alu frame sturdier. If it will not be enough, then I will switch to v-slots for Z axis as well.
    - I still would like to do very little updates on some pieces (to ease build and maintenance)
     
    #47 pek, Nov 12, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2017
    Itamar Bonneau likes this.
  18. Bertrandp

    Bertrandp New
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    this is not a Prusa i3 MK2 but a Prusa i3 rework 1.5 from emotion tech, that i've been modified from your files...This is great, very good modifications.
     

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  19. pek

    pek Journeyman
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    You are the first "Prusa i3 clone" to build my upgrade, very cool. Do you have the power supply outside the case?
     
  20. ariuskooo

    ariuskooo New
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    I see that you are using printed corners, which one are those?
     
  21. Bertrandp

    Bertrandp New
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    Yes my PSU is deported outside enclosure in a special compartiment with all electronic (photo before modification in version Prusa i3 bear)
     

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  22. Bertrandp

    Bertrandp New
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  23. Bertrandp

    Bertrandp New
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    Last modification I added MK42 heatbed 250x250.
     

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  24. pek

    pek Journeyman
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  25. pek

    pek Journeyman
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    nice case :)
     
  26. SteverJ

    SteverJ New
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    Hi,
    I haven't started the build yet so I'm just looking at the drawings and pictures but I was wondering if you think there would be enough room to modify the Y idler to add something for tensioning the belt?
     
  27. pek

    pek Journeyman
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    Do not forget to check out the manual as well : prusa_i3_bear_upgrade/manual at master · gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade · GitHub

    Having a belt tensioner on Y idler would be very good. I tried few designs but I could not find something "acceptable" to me. So I decided to go with simple solution until I get the perfect idea. Feel free to design one and share it, maybe I will add it to the build as well :)

    I am working on version 2.0 now and it will be split in 2 different builds : Full and Half upgrade. The Half upgrade corresponds to the v2.0 of this build and is almost finished (parts and manual are done). If you want to try it, check here : prusa_i3_bear_upgrade/half_upgrade at dev · gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade · GitHub
     
    SteverJ likes this.
  28. SteverJ

    SteverJ New
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    Awesome! I'm going to wait now for Version 2.0! Thanks.
     
  29. thess

    thess New
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    Very nice project - thanks for the excellent work and details/doc. Just thought I'd drop you a note about another build happening.

    I'm in the process of printing the PETG parts for your V2.0 half-upgrade for my soon to be 2nd MK2S. I've already obtained the extrusions (pre-cut from Ooznest) and parts from Openbuilds. I chose the V2 parts due to the smaller y-rod holders and some of your other refinements.

    Really looking forward to the result - maybe next week.
     
    pek likes this.
  30. pek

    pek Journeyman
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    Very nice, can't wait to see a Half Upgrade v2.0 in the wild!!! You are safe with V2.0 on Half Upgrade, it is only refinements (and in case of you can use your second printer, I will be close to my email in case of and I can react quickly). I am going to open a new build for V2.0, do not want to mess up V1.0 and V2.0 as I introduce a new printer (the full upgrade).

    Just one think I heard about Ooznest is that their tapped holes (in V-Slots) are less deep than what I recommend. I decided to use quite long screws and maybe this was useless... I heard someone used smaller screws and that was totally fine (15mm long if I remember well). Anyway, if you have time to give me a feedback on this that will be very welcome :) . I have to add a note somewhere about this in my documentation/manual.
     

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