Interested and watching.. Make sure as you go through the build process, you include an upgrade path from those who already have a lead machine. I would also suggest you take into account those who have the 1010.

Side note.. I purchased my 43mm spindle mount from makersupplies.dk and am very happy with it.

 

Whats the ETA on design documents.

 

tap tap tap....... just kidding.. mostly.. maybe.. any updates...

 

I did not.. I will go stand in the corner and wear my hat of shame...

 

Do you have the entire assembled machine in step of fusion/freecad format.. getting 6mm plate here in the US seems pricey or a problem, 1/4 which is slightly thicker than 6mm plate is readily available, so I'll need to adjust everything to account for the change.

 

Thank you.. I had a half finished cad file of my own design.. but it's not as elegant as this, and why do the work when someone else can do it so thank you.

 

Quick note and question..
Note: When you make updates in the build section, can you preface the update with the date, makes it easier to see which updates occurred and when, since we don't get notifications that a change has been made in that section..

And for the question, which you do not have to answer.. What has been the approx cost for the upgrades (material and parts, don't need the cost of manpower). I'm either really bad at finding good quality cheap parts..as the cost is approaching some of the other prebuilt machine upgrades. Right now.. for linear rails, aluminum plate (and the cost of having the plates milled using a service like sendcutsend.com since I do not trust the accuracy of my machine currently), I'm already approaching $800, coming close to the upgrade kit sold by another vender, cnc4newbies (mods, feel free to remove the reference or let me know to remove it if referencing them is a no no).

I like this design and think it is fantastic, but once the upgrade cost reaches the cost of purchasing something already prebuilt and does not require major assembly, the benefits of modifying to purchasing changes...

 

I just completed my build today, and it was less than $500. Those internet based services are very expensive - if you really want to get them done, contact a local machine shop and I think you'll be surprised with the price difference.

As for the plates, I used my stock LEAD1010 to outline all the cuts and holes at a depth of .125", except for the 16mm holes and the oblong holes for the nut blocks which were full depth. It took a few hours since I couldn't go very fast or deep, but I enjoy watching the machine so it wasn't a huge deal. Just make sure your machine is square and you'll be fine. I chose to do this in 3/8" aluminum for added stiffness. I cut out the plates using a combination of my plasma cutter, metal cutting bandsaw, and miter saw. As for the holes, I finished them on my drill press.

1/8" aluminum cutting router bits purchased from KodiakCuttingTools - $46 shipped
Timberline 12096 12" carbide blade for my miter saw from ToolsToday - $35 shipped

3/8" 6061 aluminum plate 12"x30" - $45 purchased locally
Linear rails HGR15 - purchased off AliExpress from CNCCanen - $225 shipped
Random parts from OpenBuilds (I bought way more than I needed because I can't find much locally) - $100 shipped

I also changed the Z axis a bit, turning it around to be like the Sphinx and creating a plate to mount the router to. I needed to do that for the extra height, as I work with 2"+ thick material often. As it sits I have just over 3" of clearance, but I can slide the Z's C-beam higher and get over 4" if I need to. The video below is it running a 1" surfacing bit 3mm deep at 2500mm/min (.1" @ 100IPM). I know I could go quite a bit faster, but I need to up the limits because that's all the Control software would let me do.

I also intend on designing an all aluminum Z axis eventually so it doesn't sit so far away from the X axis, but for now this works just fine. I used to be able to move the router with a finger as it cut, now it takes a decent amount of force.

 

Thank you, that is more reasonable, I was at almost $1000 in parts and service costs (if I chose to use cutting services online, I have not really checked machine shops in the DC area).. but I avoided all foreign parts because shipping was insane.. I'll check the vendors you listed.

 

Have you thought about increasing the screw size.. I have some pretty beefy steppers, as I crank up the speed, whip is pretty bad, I am considering ballscrews, or at least bumping up to 12mm or 16mm leadscrews

 

I use the OpenBuilds High Torque steppers, which seem to be mid-high end of the line on torque for Nema 23s. I priced 12mm lead screws and 1610 ballscrews out many times, and went back and forth on using them. I decided not to yet because at that point I would also want to go to a 48v PSU, which means I'd need a new controller - and then I'd not be happy with the rigidity vs power and I'd want to upgrade to a spindle, and then use steel for the beams and at that point it would be a never-ending battle with my bank account being the biggest loser.

My complaints with the LEAD1010 were never speed honestly, I always felt it did a good enough job for what I needed it to do. I hated the V-wheels and thought the rigidity could use a little boost.

One last thing I forgot to mention, the intention of the guys that developed this machine were to sell the plates or a kit eventually. When I asked them a week ago, they said they were 6-8 weeks out from being able to ship them. Just something to keep in mind if your local shops are outrageous, and with your location you might be better off branching out a little further.

 

I actually ordered my spindle mount from them. Best option for the AMB spindle I have. I might actually wait for them to make the plates. Or at least give it a shot at milling a set one time. I can get 3 pieces of 1/4 or 3/8 12"x24" for about $80.

 

$500 doesn't include any of the electronics right?

 

What electronics? This is for an upgrade from a Workbee or LEAD.