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OpenBuilds WorkBee 1010

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Mark Carew, Jun 15, 2018.

  1. John Mayer

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    Thank you for the video! It was a life saver! Worked like magic! I think it will be beneficial if the guys from the openbuilds team need to adress/show this or at least mention this in there build video so other newbies like myself know how to overcome this issue.
    Thanks again!
     
    Mark Carew and sharmstr like this.
  2. sharmstr

    sharmstr Master
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    @John Mayer I just finished building mine and havent fully gone through the wheels yet. I've run a few jobs and have had to re-tension the belts a few times. In the OB build video, they dont really address how to do it. They also give you really short screws for the belt tensioners because it "looks great being flush with the end plate". Well, it also makes it a pain to readjust the belts. Do yourself a favor and put longer screws in the tensioner brackets so you dont have to have the bracket up against the end plate. Also subscribe to ooznest youtube channel and maybe download their manual. With a combination of OB and Ooznest, all the info you need is out there :) (btw - I'm not knocking OB at all. This is just stuff I didnt fully understand until I did it.)
     
  3. Hector Beltran

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    I am just about done building my workbee 1010. Well, really I have had it running for a few weeks now, but I just good around getting the drag chains installed as well as doing some rewiring and cable management. Overall it works well and looks good.
    One question I have is about the atypical sounds I hear from my build. By atypical I mean, sounds that are not originating from the stepper motors; more specifically, the lead screws are fairly noisy when they are subject to changing tension; they vibrate ever so slighlty. I noticed that the ball bearings and lead screw have a slight play. Since these are attached to aluminum plates, the vibration rattle gets very noisy. I was wondering if this is normal, or if there something I should double check.
     
  4. Blake Everett

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    @Mark Carew Hello, I was wondering if you could help me trouble shoot or point me in the direction of someone who could. I have finished assembling my Workbee CNC 1010, but cannot control the stepper motors. I know I am connected to the controller however, as the micro-limit switches register when I press them. I have the steppers that are not pre-attached to the the connector ports, but I have tried connecting the wires in both orders. In fact I have tried all 24 possible connection combinations and still cannot get the motors to turn. In the OpenBuilds software, it registers that the motors are turning, however they are not actually turning. Thanks for your help.
     
  5. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Project Maker Builder

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    If its an XPRO double check that $4=1
     
  6. Blake Everett

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    For $4 my OpenBuilds software only has enabled or disabled, I tried both but the motors still don't move. Any other ideas?
     
  7. Christian James

    Christian James Well-Known
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    Blake, enabled means $1, disabled means $0 (Logic high and logic low). If you still have problems, a few pics of your setup and wiring would help.
     
  8. Blake Everett

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    [​IMG]
    I've attached an imgur link to 3 pictures of my wiring. I only included one terminal on the xpro, which is for the y motor, but all the wiring on the other terminals is identical. Please let me know if any other pictures would help with trouble shooting. Thanks!

    Edit: Imgur link didn't post so here it is Imgur
     
  9. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    You can use the Serial Terminal tab in the OB software to send $4=1 if in doubt...

    And remember to reset the controller after the change before you test... it takes effect after a reboot
     
  10. thecableguy

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    Hey folks, is there a 3D model for the 1010 machine that's in a format other than SketchUp? I tried importing it into Rhino but the SU version is too new for Rhino to import. If there were a STEP file that would be ideal. Otherwise Rhino is asking for a version 8 SketchUp file if someone is able to save it to that version for me. A google search turned up a file set on Thingiverse but it appears to be a year old so I'm not sure if it's out of date.

    Thanks in advance!
     
  11. Christian James

    Christian James Well-Known
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    #131 Christian James, Dec 9, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2018
    thecableguy likes this.
  12. thecableguy

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    That would be fantastic!

    Brian
     
  13. Christian James

    Christian James Well-Known
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    Link in my post above
     
  14. thecableguy

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    Thanks so much. I’ll let you know if it works.
     
  15. thecableguy

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    Worked perfectly, thanks!
     
  16. thecableguy

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    So I’m going to put one of these machines together to replace my Ox. In the collective experience here, is the Acme screw drive sufficient or should I modify the design for ball screws? My main use is for machining wood (electric guitars and pickups) and I’m not concerned about high feed rates or anything. I just want clean, repeatable results. The most critical thing I’d be cutting would be inlays and angled fret slots, which needs low backlash, within a couple thou. Also I’d be putting some locating pins in the spoilboard for doing common machining operations so I’d need it to be able to repeatably zero to those locations after homing. Thoughts?
     
  17. Cmac67

    Cmac67 New
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    i would really appreciate any help I can get with this problem. I built the workbee 1010. When I tested the movement of the machine, I noticed the gantry would become skewed as it moved. I noticed the A motor was running normal but the Y axis motor would slip or stop and then continue. Does anyone know what would cause this? I checked the connections and they are tight. Please any help would be great.
     
  18. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    Is there a chance the wires are reversed on one axis?
     
  19. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Could be any of a number of problems. Start by loosening the motor couplers and moving the Y-axis carriages forward and back by hand. Is one more difficult to move than the other? If so you may have unbalanced pretensioning on the wheels, wheels locking up, or the problems with the screw locking up in the anti-backlash nut. If both move the same, re-tighten the couplers and with a marker place witness marks between the motor shaft and the coupler and between the coupler and the screw. Run the system to verify there is no movement between the opposing sides of the witness marks. If this still isn't the problem then check the electrical. Are the drivers set the same for both motors? Is there sufficient cooling on the board? Are there any loose or bad connections in the wiring?
     
    Matthew Bates likes this.
  20. Cmac67

    Cmac67 New
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    Thank you for the help. I rewired the Y axis and it solved the problem. It was probably a loose wire.
     
  21. gibson

    gibson Well-Known
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    I`am going to try to make the y plates for the 1010 workbee .. can some one tell me if they machined them with a 1/4' bit or an 1/8" bit.....going to beff up the ox build frame some thats my gol.....
     
  22. gibson

    gibson Well-Known
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    are u useing mach3 if so you will have to slave the y and a thats what i had to do now they both move .....
     
  23. Christian James

    Christian James Well-Known
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    Most of the holes are under 1/4" so you would need a smaller bit - the 1/4" would be ok for the cutout and the bearing holes etc.
     
  24. Stan Howe

    Stan Howe New
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    AM I missing something?
    I haven't built the Workbee 1010 machine yet because my cellar workspace is not quite ready, but am going over my design and other preps. I am looking at the spoil board and the specs show a machine working size of 32 by 30.5" yet recommends a spoil board of 34.25 x 39.25. When I surface that board won't it leave high edges all around the workable area? I plan to do some tiling work where I would feed a long piece of wood through the machine in stages, The long piece of wood would then sit on the unsurfaced parts of the spoil board. I'm thinking a SB just slightly larger than the working area, but less than the reach of my 1" diameter surfacing bit (~3/8" on all sides), so that would be a SB of 32.75" x 31.25". Am i seeing this correclly? what does everyone else do?
     
  25. scot j stahley

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    i just finished mine and the only dimension that matter is the 39.25.it spans the frame front to back the other can be what ever you want
    i
     
  26. Christian James

    Christian James Well-Known
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    You're not missing anything, that's how it is. You could make the spoil board 10 yards long but, as you found, the back of it will be higher than the surfaced part. I overcame that problem which you can see in the build log below. I sacrificed some Z height but knowing I would make new gantry plates I wasn't concerned but this may not suit you of course.

    Look here and scroll down to Spoilboard

    Workbee "style" 1010 cnc
     
  27. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Master
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    After a few months of doing this the conventional way (with ridges after surfacing) I came to the same conclusion as @Christian James - I had already adopted a lower position for my spoiler board. The only difference is that I keep my spoiler board 4 feet long - it overhangs the end frames and gives me somewhere to tuck my power supply away from the dust. Then the waste board on top can be designed to suit the job - fixings for clamps, registration points for WCS zero etc.
    Alex.
     
    Mark Carew likes this.

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