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OpenBuilds OX CNC Machine

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Mark Carew, Dec 15, 2013.

  1. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    At 78 Pages long I may have missed it. But has any one used Misumi T-slot table ( 8mm wide slots ) on there ox? Considering a Smaller Ox Build myself. Total outside size of 560mm x 750mm using Two of there 15mmx250mmx750mm T-slot extrusion pieces. This should leave 10mm on each side for the inside wheel brace / shield. This would only be about a 80$ upgrade from mdf.

    Misumi Part Number is: HFSQN4-15250-750

    Photos of what I am referring to.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And This is kinda What I was thinking for mounting it.

    [​IMG]
     
    #2251 Kyo, Mar 22, 2015
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2015
  2. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Nice idea. I have thought about this in the past, but it worked out really expensive.
    I'll make a note of it.

    Cheers
    Gray
     
  3. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
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    I have done the same idea but ran my v slot in the other direction to allow for many tie down points ;)
    image.jpg
     
  4. KerryH

    KerryH New
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    I have seen this used on Shapeokos before:
    http://veltema.jp/2014/11/26/shapeoko-aluminium-bed/


    Misumi has had very generous deals for first time buyers in the past http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2620
     
  5. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Robert Hummel -- Nice ! That is what I like about a metal bed, The endless hold down options. That and the ability to use a mist coolant and not ruin the mdf / wood..

    KerryH -- The Shapeoko guy's are where I first learned about this particular part after skimming over more costly T-slot beds. Also got the center mount .stl file from one of them. Then I just modified Roberts corner plates to incorporate a similar mounting solution for the outer corner. I am a big fan of one part serving multiple functions when possible..
     
    Robert Hummel likes this.
  6. cruz1445

    cruz1445 New
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    Anyone have any thoughts on the shapeoko 3 coming out? I was plannimg to start my ox build in may and stumbled across the shapeoko 3. Price is about $1050 with delivery . Havnt seen much threads or point of views on it.
     
  7. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    That is already the subject of another thread. Let's please try and keep this one focused on the original subject.
     
  8. cruz1445

    cruz1445 New
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    Ok thanks for the help man
     
  9. jlowe1224

    jlowe1224 New
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    The calculator is protected by a password, so assuming I use standard materials listed, nothing added or extra, what is the bare cost of the machine (hardware only)
     
  10. Nick W

    Nick W Well-Known
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    [​IMG] It's alive(ish)! I got it moving late last night. There is still a lot of tuning and tweaking to do before it cuts anything. I need to figure out why the Z axis doesn't like moving up. The motor is strong enough, I hope. I'm pretty sure the threaded rod is not aligned perfectly and binding.
     
  11. KerryH

    KerryH New
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    It looks like you're using a pretty large motor. I have the same dewalt router and I'm only using a nema 23 156oz/in on my Z and it works perfectly, doesn't even drop any at all w/ the router on.

    I did use some silicone lubricant I had left over from a poly bushing kit from an automotive project on the threaded rod and nut.

    I have my threaded rod aligned to where I can turn the coupler by hand when the motor is off.
     
    #2261 KerryH, Mar 26, 2015
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2015
  12. Nick W

    Nick W Well-Known
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    Kerry, I can turn it by hand but it is not super easy. I'm going to dig into it tonight.
     
  13. dddman

    dddman Journeyman
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    We want a video :)
     
  14. Nick W

    Nick W Well-Known
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    heh, once I put some more time into it. I finally started it up at 2am this morning and couldn't keep working on it ALL night. I'll start my own build thread soon.
     
  15. dddman

    dddman Journeyman
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    Meanwhile, how did you adjust your top and bottom plaets for your Z axis? You're supposed to loose your bolts, raise the Z axis to its maximum, tighten the top bolts, lower the Z axis to its minimum, and tighten the bottom bolts. When adjusted well, the Z axis unpowered should go down by itself without a lot of help.
     
  16. Nick W

    Nick W Well-Known
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    That is what I did, but it seemed like the bearings limited the movement of the threaded rod to be completely straight. The bearings were hitting the extrusion. I'll dig into it tonight.
     
  17. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
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    The bearings go on the outside ;)
     
  18. matthewb

    matthewb New
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    X- beam.
    I bolted my x beam together and then filled it with PU casting resin. I filled the whole thing but may well take out the 4 fills that dont join the 2 pieces of rail( they weigh 150g each- so 600 g). Or i may leave them in for damping. The 3 central cavities filled with resin hold the beam together very well.
    It is a quick and easy method of making joiners to ( if you didnt want to fill the whole thing). If i take the bolts out i can slide the 2 rails apart and am left with perfectly shaped joiner in long lengths.
    photo --->
     

    Attached Files:

    sgspenceley likes this.
  19. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    Looks very good :thumbsup:

    Tweakie.
     
  20. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    Mathew the casting resin is an outstanding idea and should be extremely effective to resolve a fundamental design limitation. Awesome!
     
  21. Nick W

    Nick W Well-Known
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    really? I suppose that would work. I ended up swapping out the precision shim for a 1/8" spacer for the 6 wheels that hold the Z extrusion. That gave enough room and the z moves MUCH better now.
     
  22. Jonny Norris

    Jonny Norris Well-Known
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    #2272 Jonny Norris, Mar 27, 2015
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2015
  23. Gabriel Faber

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  24. plexer

    plexer New
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    Basically the same driver.

    Ben
     
  25. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    A note to the followers of this thread, the OX plates have been revised to version 8.1 to resolve tightness of the Z plates on the X axis.
     
    Mark Carew and sgspenceley like this.
  26. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    Hi, Rick, can you provide link to the new plates, I would like to update my shared Solidworks version so people don't use the wrong one.
    In version 8.1 what is the correct distance between the wheel holes?
     
  27. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Drawings are on the files tab. Spacing is section depth + 19.8.
     
  28. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Suggestions for integration of the C-Beam Linear Actuators into the OX system. (file attached) Just a few quick ideas. Moving the lower gantry wheels inside the track allowed for the side plates to move up to accommodate the increased depth of the gantry beam without loss of cutting thickness. This also cut 40mm off the thickness of the base frame which allows the entire perimeter to bear on the support table and also reduces the amount of extrusion required.

    My apologies for it not being fully detailed. I was a bit short on time to properly develop it.

    Untitled-1.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    #2278 Rick 2.0, Mar 30, 2015
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2015
  29. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    Excellent new design and model Rick. Love the new drive solution!
     
  30. davidbrowne

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    If anyone in Melbourne -Aust needs heatsink glue, I can give you what I have left over.
    I bought a tube and only used about .5 ml, It will just sit in my tool cupboard for the next 20 years.
    I've also got some heatsinks you can cut down if you need them.
     
    Neptunes Guitars likes this.

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