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OpenBuilds OX CNC Machine

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Mark Carew, Dec 15, 2013.

  1. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    This would be great @Prauk and @David the swarfer I think this is the area that stops a lot of people from moving forward making custom machines, thinking that its to complicated to do. So a resource for this subject would be a big help and think everyone would agree in a big thanks to both you and David in advance for making it possible.
     
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  2. Rich C

    Rich C New
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    Question for anyone using a TinyG and tgfx.... Would anyone be so kind as to send me a working gcode file that I can use to get a post processor wrote for my system please?

    It has to be a working file for a Tinyg/tgfx combo.

    It would greatly be appreciated.

    Rich
     
  3. Balu

    Balu Well-Known
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    @kram242 If I wanted to use mm spacers instead of inch ones, how would I have to set up the dual-wheel spacings for the X axis? 0,35mm difference between 1/4" and 6mm seem to be quite a lot if you want to position the wheels correctly.

    Also I wonder what improvements the community suggested / made to the original design that you'd incorporate in an OxV2 :).
     
  4. Dave M

    Dave M New
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    Hi Robert H
    Can you share with us how you bolted your two 20x60 X beams together. maybe a pic please.
     
  5. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
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    I used M4 x 20 bolts, clamped both rails together nice and square.
    Then drilled 4mm holes through the first beam then just scored the second "don't drill" just let the tip mark it.
    Then un clamp and drill 3mm holes and tap for M4
    Hope u get what I'm saying lol
    :D
     
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  6. Dekman

    Dekman New
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    Ive searched and read pretty much every post in here but still can't find the answer i am looking for. Is this gantry design rigid enough to adapt to a 150ox1500 machine?
     
  7. SlyClockWerkz

    SlyClockWerkz Well-Known
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    In my experience a 1000mmx15000mm ox is not very ridgid at all. The weak spot is a long gantry (1000mm). Id do a 500mm x gantry in the future, maybe 750.
     
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  8. Dave M

    Dave M New
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    Did you drill through the flat hollow or through the slot ? How many M4x20 bolts did you use? Thanks
     
  9. Balu

    Balu Well-Known
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    How can the shorter gantry be less rigid than the longer axis especially since it's doubled? (Yes, I do realize the longer one is also doubled - one on each side :) ).

    I was thinking about doing two 20x80 x1000 instead of 20x60 x1000 for the shorter gantry to make it more rigid. Would that help?
     
  10. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    It's not so much about rigidity as it is as to how they are loaded. The loading of the side rails is largely vertical which is easily handled by the 20x80 rails. At the gantry rails, the weight of the router hanging off to the side causes twisting of the rails. This is putting a force in a direction where the rails are not as strong as they are in the vertical direction.
     
  11. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
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    I drilled the middle slot of the 20x60, the bolt heads are hidden in the rail slot
    Used 5xM4 one middle, one each end then one in the centre left and right.
    Also a dab of loctite on each one
     
  12. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    Can you see a noticable stiffening by bolting them together or...?
     
  13. David the swarfer

    David the swarfer OpenBuilds Team
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    if you want a 1500mm gantry I think you should space the 2 rails apart (using 20x80 of course) and put the router between them.
     
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  14. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    Now that is an idea that would solve a couple of issues in short order. Would need new gantry plate tops desitgned, but it should not take much to do that, as the lowers are already broader than the top.
     
  15. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    @Balu
    I have my OX build set up in SAE at the moment but have plans to switch everything over metric. I believe it was 9mm spacers for the spacing, please read @Lee Saferite post here: http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/i-want-to-be-a-metric-purist.525/
    For that your best bet would be to look through some of the variants OX builds http://www.openbuilds.com/?category=cnc-router-builds&id=286 and see what mods have been added that you like and pick the ones you want to add to yours. I would also look though this thread from the start as well because there have a been a lot of great ideas and mods posted here. I personally am looking to make the dust shoe for mine :)
    Hope this helps
     
    #1665 Mark Carew, Oct 23, 2014
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2015
    Balu likes this.
  16. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
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    I would say yes but can't say much just yet.
    The fiber OX is not bolted and seems very stiff.
    I am however only using a laser on it also ;)
     
  17. Balu

    Balu Well-Known
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    I was thinking about doing something like that (even for 1000mm), but one problem is the different router sizes...
     
  18. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    I would think a standard router mount or two could be fabricated with sleeves to alter to the required size. I ordered the proper sized router mount from Chris Laidlaw, and made an insert to fit it to hold my laser unit.
     
  19. davidbrowne

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    This is my first post, and I'm in the middle of the build. My ACME nut seems to be very tight on the threaded rod.
    Its too tight to turn by hand so I used my electric drill to feed it on, the back and forth until the batteries ran flat.
    I added some petroleum jelly to lube it up, but it is still really tight. Is this normal?
     
  20. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    Hi David,

    I think that is pretty normal - it will loosen up as it beds in. ;)

    Tweakie.
     
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  21. dougsnash

    dougsnash New
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    I'm at about the halfway point of my build too and likewise, am finding the Z-axis AMCE thread pretty stiff. I think it will be alright though and the tight thread will have the benefit of not having much backlash when running and the tightness will help to hold the vibrating router stable in the Z-axis. I am also, however, curious if this is normal.

    I would be worried about using a "wet" lubricant like petroleum jelly on a part which is going to be near flying sawdust and other debris like the Z-axis thread is. The dust is likely to be attracted to the grease and might lead to more stiffness as the dust builds up. As Mark recommends in his build videos, a wipe-down with some silicone lube on a rag or maybe a coating of drying graphite or moly lube spray might be a better solution. If you go with the graphite or moly spray watch out for the overspray as it makes a mess and is a pain to clean off (good for the part, not so good for things coated in overspray).

    Let us know how you make out.

    Doug M
     
  22. Rhinofart

    Rhinofart New
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    Hey Rich. Here is a link to my drop box that I setup when I was getting support from the TinyG community about my setup. You can follow that thread along at: https://www.synthetos.com/topics/a-little-confused-and-annoyed/

    But as for the settings, config file, and a quick little sample .CNC code that works great for quick tests, go here to my drop box.
    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ll69wwon389gxbp/AAAVQ5lxE9SHIQcHdA2hpnepa?dl=0

    Hope these help you out. I'm just working my way through creating something in Sketchup, and trying to get cuts and g-code plotted properly with SketchUcam. There is something that is just eluding me for some proper CAM --> Milling.

    Don't use the files that are named: BORKED at the beginning. They were just examples of, well Borked exports.
     
  23. Paruk

    Paruk Journeyman
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    a Dust shoe is a must, I think. Man, the amount of dust you produce with a cnc router is enormous. I also think it would be a good idea to have some kind of protection on the inside of the gantry plates to avoid dust and other cutting debris coming into the top of the profiles, possibly causing trouble in the longer run for the wheels and belts.
     
  24. Balu

    Balu Well-Known
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    I wonder if moving the belt from the top to the bottom of the V-Slot would help with dirt getting in. Did anyone try that yet?
     
  25. Dekman

    Dekman New
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    If the X axis was tripled as in 3 - 80x20 and the rollers were used on the 2 outside tracks would that reduce the twisting allowing you to go to 1500mm. Obviously the plates would have to be modified slightly to accommodate the third beam but I cant see that being a big deal. Any thoughts?
     
  26. Paruk

    Paruk Journeyman
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    This is the dust shoe I have installed on The Buffalo. Next to it the design in SU.
    IMG_1163.jpg Screen Shot 2014-10-25 at 08.35.17.png
    For dust extraction I use this temporarily setup with a blue barrel 200 Ltr., a Thien baffle and industrial vacuum cleaner head. IMG_1161.jpg

    Works great!

    Also have a tool sensor installed for semi-automatic tool change and measuring tool offset, plus a sensor for measuring the Z offset. Makes it all easier to setup work.
     
    #1676 Paruk, Oct 24, 2014
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2014
  27. Paruk

    Paruk Journeyman
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    A short video about how to install the dust shoe (the other way around is taking it off).
     
  28. Rich C

    Rich C New
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    Got it Rhinofart. Thank you so much

    Rich
     
  29. SlyClockWerkz

    SlyClockWerkz Well-Known
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    This is exactly my thoughts/experience. Also ask yourself if you want/need the router to be that large, do you have specific projects in mind that need a large bed? I made a 1000mmx1500mm w/o anything in mind, and I think I use about 25% of the bed in most cases. The other 75% is storage for materials and wrenches. :(
    Another thought, I think something that people will often overlook is the support under the table itself. I used two 20x40 v slot supporting 2 sheets of 3/4" mdf/particle board. when looking at the 2080 from the side you can see how the mdf noticeably sags below the 2080.

    I really like how one user bolted the 2080 straight to his beefy table w/ aluminum angle. Great idea
     
  30. Paruk

    Paruk Journeyman
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    To prevent sagging, I've printed some corner pieces to support the MDF where it meets the 20x80 profiles at the sides.
     

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