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OpenBuilds LEAD CNC Machine 1515 (60" x 60")

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by OpenBuilds, Sep 29, 2020.

  1. Mark Mcleod

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    I agree about the video. It’s very well done. I did notice I have a dip in my table so I’m going to address that first but it worries me that the vertical supports bow out so much. It seems like it would put a lot of tension on the wheel / bracket assembly. That’s a good idea about the caliper between the two c beams. I’ll try that too. Thanks for taking the time to respond.
     
  2. Mark Mcleod

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    Thanks for replying. I measured most everything but I didn’t check that they were all square. I’ll have to do that.
     
  3. Rhett E

    Rhett E Well-Known
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    Pretty certain this is caused by an inwards bow in the table. Mine is constructed similar to yours with a .75 MDF top. If your table is square like mine (69.25" X 69.25") try rotating your machine 90degrees on the table and checking for square again. If it's worse or better you'll know if it's the table. I also have a small gap on the t-track cross braces that obviously shows the table is bowed. I thought I over built the table like I do most things but I guess not.
     
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  4. Mark Mcleod

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    Just bought a 72” level so I can rebuild my table.
     
  5. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    Consider building a heavy torsion box style table top and build it on a very flat surface. I made one for my 150mm x 850 mm build and I did it on my dining room floor. In 1520mm it only had a crown of about 1mm. It is super heavy and my CNC is securely fastened to it which helps with vibration. Lead Screw Driven Ox Derivative (850x1500)

    Also Torsion box - Wikipedia.
     
    #35 Giarc, Oct 25, 2020
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2020
    Mark Mcleod likes this.
  6. Mark Mcleod

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    You looking over my shoulder? Lol. I’m literally watching a video on torsion box design right now. I bought a 6’ level and noticed my 2x4’s were off and bowed almost a 1/4 of an inch so I’m going to try joining them first before a torsion box. Plywood is insane these days.
     
  7. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    If you want something to be stable, do not use 2x4s if possible. Make your own if you have a table saw. When I need perfection, I glue up 3 layers of 1/2" plywood to make 2x4s. That is what I made my base cabinet out of. I use low grade plywood.[​IMG]
     
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  8. Rhett E

    Rhett E Well-Known
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    I rebuilt/modified my table to what is essentially a torsion box. There's a gap you can barely fit a piece of paper in and I'll call that good. However, I still have the same out of square on my gantry. Not sure how I didn't measure this before but I measured the lowest part of the gantry face 58 15/16" then the very top face where it was unobstructed and got 59 1/8". So there's definitely a 'V' like the video. I have the high z mod so mine's exaggerated but it's probably the same as Mark's.
     
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  9. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    Are the Cbeams on the Y axis space properly? What I did when I originally built mine was fasten one side of the Y down tight. The other side was left loose so when the gantry moved back and forth it would "space" itself properly. Then I tightened down the other side after measuring the frame for squareness. If the two X c-beams are the same length, then the upright 20X80 beams mounted to the Cbeam plates should also be square with the X gantry beams. If it were me, I would make sure one side was lined up and square. Then I would square the other side at the outer edge of one of the cbeams (if not quite the same length, the shorter one). The beauty of this design, and why I based my new lathe of of it is that if one X cbeam is - let's say - 0.5mm longer, it should not matter too much because they can stick out longer past the upright vs a build where they interface flat against a gantry plate (workbee).
     
    #39 Giarc, Oct 26, 2020
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2020
  10. Rhett E

    Rhett E Well-Known
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    Thank you for the detailed response, Giarc. Using your instruction I was able to square the machine and square the upright 20x80 beams. There is about .142" of overhang or I guess excess on the X C beams but they're now parallel.

    Would the same methodology apply for squaring the Y axis as making the X C beams parallel? The top X C beam won't move so I can loosen the lower, move the carriage to either side, measure and repeat. Or snug one side down then move carriage to the other?

    Thanks again for all the help, you guys are great.
     
  11. Mark Mcleod

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    I just made a new video and came to the same conclusion. The gantry supports cannot be square to the gantry if the ends are flush as directed in the instructional video. I can either let it overhang like you did or get 1.5mm spacers added to the bolts on both sides with the vwheel plates.

     
    Mark Carew likes this.
  12. Rhett E

    Rhett E Well-Known
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    Mark, if you measure at 27 seconds in your video to the other side like you mentioned do you get 58 15/16" or real close? I don't have a metric tape. I think just leaving an overhang would yield the same result as putting spacers all over, plus you don't have to take the thing apart.
     
  13. Mark Mcleod

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    Exactly 58 15/16”.
     
  14. Mark Mcleod

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    I sent Openbuilds an email. They need to up the spacer thickness by 1.5mm on both sides.
     
  15. Rhett E

    Rhett E Well-Known
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    You see spacing it at the bottom to be more advantageous than having excess overhang at the top? I'm definitely no expert in this area!
     
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  16. Mark Mcleod

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    I’m going to let the excess overhang. The build video should be changed to reflect that though.
     
    Mark Carew likes this.
  17. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Hey guys I see you have it worked out already, but it should be said that after review this is indeed a mistake in the Build video. This design was created to allow for the overhang so everything can be squared up.
    We are currently reworking the video to remove this flush mounting portion.
    Thank you for the feedback and helping others in the future not run into this. Team work for the win! :thumbsup:
     
    Mark Mcleod, Giarc and Rhett E like this.
  18. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    I am sharing this customer response here because I feel it could help others. Thanks Mark :thumbsup:
    @Mark Mcleod reached out and asked
    "As an alternative to having the overhang could the rails that sit on the bottom support be allowed to come out?"
    This is correct and exactly how it's supposed to be done on this design.

    Here is how I would go about doing this if it was built this way and I needed to correct it:
    • - Jog the x axis somewhere into the middle of the table

    • - Loosen the connection on the two front C-Beams to the frames so that the C-Beams can freely move left to right.

    • - Jog the x axis up to the front of the machine close to the ends so that the C- Beams find their place.

    • - Take this time to square the columns relative to the x axis, if need be loosen the column connections and square up.
      If you had it assembled before there is a possibility that they could be off-square so this is a good step to check.

    • - Now tighten down the C-Beams to where they should sit

    • - Next (just like we did for the front of the machine) let's loosen the two back C-Beams so that they can move left to right on the frame sides.

    • - Now one more time jog the X axis to the back of the machine and tighten down the C- Beams to the side frames.
    At this point, and while your back there you can take the time to measure where each side of your Y axis (front to back) gantry plates are to make sure everything is running parallel
    I do this to my machines after a first build and then from time as a maintenance routine just to make sure all is good. It usually is but it never hurts to be sure :)

    To check this:
    • - Make your X axis is positioned somewhere near the back of the machine

    • - First turn the BlackBox (controller) power off to disengage the motors

    • - Then measure from the back of each side to the edge of each Y axis side plate to ensure they are running parallel.

    • - If they are not and need some tweaking you can turn the flex coupling of each axis by hand to dial them in perfectly.

    • - Double check both sides with a square on the X axis to the side columns

    Hope this helps
    Thank you guys for your support and feedback
     
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  19. Rhett E

    Rhett E Well-Known
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    What is new on the recently uploaded Mechanical LEAD 1515 video? It still appears to show the two X C beams to be flush with no overhang. The squaring section is only a few seconds long with a note but I don't recall if this was in the original video.
     
  20. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    I've updated the video to let users know at the step where they move the gantry forward, they will need to loosen the Y axis on both sides before moving it all the way to the front and back of the machine. Once it's moved it there they can be tightened back down. This will ensure the Y axis are aligned from the front to the back of the machine.
     
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  21. Rob Mitchell

    Rob Mitchell Well-Known
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    Where are all the videos of builders using this wonderful kit. I'm interested in seeing it perform to test the limits using soft and hard woods along with aluminum.
     
  22. Rhett E

    Rhett E Well-Known
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    Thanks for the pictures, Brian that looks great so far. I can't help but notice your shop! Nice equipment and all that space! Looking forward to seeing the projects you'll be putting out.
     
  23. Brian Terreau

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    Thanks Rhett - I just finished building this shop at my new house. All my tools have been in storage for the past year, so I'm really excited about being able to work on all the projects I've been thinking of for all year. The problem is knowing where to start!
     
  24. Mark Mcleod

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    Excellent work! I finished mine up this morning and got the cnc off the floor, on the table and wasteboards added. If you’re in the Facebook group I posted a video of how I did wasteboard and tracks for hold downs. Next is figuring out an enclosure or a muffler for the router.
     
  25. Brian Terreau

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    Awesome Mark, that had to feel good to get that thing off the floor. I didn't even know there was a Facebook group, so I just went on and asked to join the group! Really looking forward to seeing your spoil board and how you are doing your hold downs.
     
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  26. Mark Mcleod

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    My use case is pretty specific - I’m an art professor and make multi layered 1/4” mdf pieces that are painted and glued together. I’ve designed some clamps that fit the mdf and those t tracks just right. If you’re on Instagram you can see my work and more of my progress @markmcleod50
     
  27. Brian Terreau

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    I saw your setup on the Facebook group. I like how you used the built in rails as t track. Out of curiosity, how long is it taking people to receive their machines? I ordered mine a week ago and haven't heard anything.
     
  28. Mark Mcleod

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    I think it was about 3 weeks for mine. They package everything really well - like get an extra trash bag ready for all the tape and wrap and little bags they use.
     
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  29. Brian Terreau

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    Oh wow, that is much longer than I would have expected! I'm glad I asked! Thanks for the info Mark. I can't wait to get this thing up and running.
     
  30. Brian Terreau

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    I already got my machine yesterday! I started the build as well. I'm at the point where I'm assembling the frame. I skipped ahead to see how the spoiler board attaches, and it seems like it would really suck to add the spoiler board after you have built the entire machine. Is there any reason why you wouldn't just flip the frame upside down and attach the spoiler board before continuing to add the gantry and the rest of it? I also don't really love the entire spoiler board mounting idea - in order to replace your spoiler board you'll have to get underneath it. Mark had a good idea for that but I'm wondering if anyone else had any other good ideas for how to accomplish this.
     
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