Hello,

Yep that's right i use

CNC USB controller Mk3/4 (4 axis)
and this driver
DQ542MA Stepper Motor Driver

Cheers

 

I have no experience in making a machine like this so apologies if I have made any mistakes or school boy errors. I just like gadgets and making s#*t and this machine is bloody brilliant I'm well pleased

1500mm by 1500mm

Got this package last Friday! I do think who ever packed it has OCD issues even the tape with mm perfect. Two days grafting and I was cutting.

Packaging 100%
Instructions 98% only had two small issues mainly due to not reading the instruction. I did find the Y axis motor connection was running in reverse but was simple enough to fix.
Parts 100% all look and feel quality.
Build 100% would be easier if the eccentric nuts where at the top but I'm sure there is a reason for them being at the bottom.
Commissioning info 100% entered all the data on the sheet and over a 900mm test (the length of my steel ruler) it was bang on it really was accurate.

So far I have cut

6mm MDF
12mm MDF
18mm MDF
21mm OAK
40mm OAK (engraved some letters

I know I'm using the wrong router bits but I'm now skint so will have to wait a few weeks before getting so decent bits. Any recommendations for starter but would be appreciated.

All the cuts to date are very accurate. 300mm circles are perfect mirror copies every time. You can see some tool makes but I guess this will improve with descent bits. The 21mm oak finish was the best finish and I did set this to 15 passes which was quite slow. Only trouble I do seem to have is the rebates some time filling with saw dust which seems to cause a poor finish on the thicker MDF. I'm hoping up cut but will reduce this.

I'm not one for kissing *** or writing reviews but respect where respect is due. As Andy from the barley pickers would have said. Proper Job.

Any chance of some free limit switches for the glowing review? And is it possible to add one of the fancy z axis calibration test link?

Thanks Ryan and your team.

 

Matt
Nice Build.

The Quality of bits will improve side finish (using the correct feed and speed)as long as the correct stratergy is used, But the bottom finish is down to Z being perpendicular to the bed (Tramming).

I have a trammer for my mill, but cannot use this on the OX as the Z depth is too great. Does anyone know of a trammer that can be used?

 

Hi Marcus,

sorry for the late reply, been so busy.

All is good now after loads of trial and error and messing with feeds and the like.

I now run with 1/4" cutting diameter up-cut 2 flute spiral bits from routercutter.co.uk and they are fantastic bits. 1200mm/min feed with a cutting depth of no more than 2mm and I ramp into all cuts. Bit stays cool to touch. Only remaining issue I had was the z-axis being dragged down during grooving, but I do have a heavy dust shoe attached to the router and ramping up the power to the z-axis has more or less cured this. A little bit of movement remains, but I will switch the dust shoe for a lighter one when I get around to it and am pretty confident that will sort it out once and for all.

Thanks.

 

Vetric Toolpath Strategy

Gents (and Ladies)

Does anyone have a good Strategy for milling multiple through cuts in MDF using Vetric.
I have tried most options but it seems that either edge detail or precision is not brilliant.

The best I have got so far is....

3mm Spiral Compression cutter running at 24000rpm and 3600mm/min (Plunge same as it has a spiral ramp)



If I add any leads they seem to be added outside the part I want to cut - not inside.
Also I seem to get a witness as the tool withdraws and I cannot see how to take it off the cut face
Does anyone have experience???

Cheers

Marcus

 

Ryan

Thanks for looking and answering.

OK - I have followed your advice - First and second Cut Strategy....Merged

Preview.....



Gives This G Code

I will cut and send a photo

Cheers

Marcus

 

Thanks Marcus

The trammer looks a brilliant bit of kit. I will try and make a gadget that fits the ooz

 

Hi Ryan

Yes I will confirm parts and order with you shortly. The Z calibrate different to Marcus had subjected although that is a well worth while. It's more Z zeroing using a metal plate and creating a circuit with wire and croc clips. Is this possible with the controller?


Thanks

 

Results - Ignore the black dots, this marks where the tool exited


Red lines point to overcuts - I presume on the final finish pass as the tool plunges at 45deg ramp


As tool retracts after finish - this is left. Presume I need to overcut, but without leads I cannot



Issues everywhere!!!!!!

Any advice? PLEASE

Marcus

 

I you do make two!!!!

Marcus

 

Thanks for looking here is the vetric file

Whoops - cannot upload that file type.
Have renamed it dxf - when you get it rename to crv3d and it should be good
Marcus

 

Matt

I think this is more a function of the SW you use to interpret the G Code. I am using Mach3 and I do use the Z probing method supplied with the 2010 screen set.

Marcus

 

Bingo

Think I have found the issue.
Mach 3 will run in Constant velocity or Exact mode (G61- G64 to cancel)
Switching to exact the cuts are supurb (even though a little slower and jerkyer).
Apparently CV mode smooths the transitions keeping up the speed of movement

Hope that helps someone going through the same pain

Marcus

 

So much fun!

 

I've got your same setup but with a Dewalt, where did you get your dust boot or did you build it?

 

Hi,

I got the dust boot from ooznest. I'm sure I could have made some things cheaper but as the machine is in my office I didn't want dust everywhere. To be honest it's a well made bit of kit. You and see through the top of it and it clips in on magnets so very easy use.

How's are you getting on with your cnc?

 

Hi Ryan,

I must be missing something obvious but i have downloaded and unzipped UGS, but i can not see the universalGcodesender.jar file.
Can you tell me where it is

thanks

Andrew

 

My one looks like this is thats any help.

 

Gents/Ladies

Does anyone have a good handle on how tight the GT3 Belts should be. I have now had a few issues with (as it turns out) loose belt tension.
Is there a guide on how to set it?

Cheers

Marcus

 

Hello Marcus,

I have doubled up the belts and it's working very well. I use a 40mm angle bracket and two 25mm m4 screws nuts and washers. I gave the belts a firm but not to hard tug while the wife nipped up the screw. It's a bit ruff and ready but working great


QUOTE="Marcus1, post: 53548, member: 64633"]Gents/Ladies

Does anyone have a good handle on how tight the GT3 Belts should be. I have now had a few issues with (as it turns out) loose belt tension.
Is there a guide on how to set it?

Cheers

Marcus[/QUOTE

 

Ahhh

I just tried that and the belt broke where the nip up screw had been
Have ordered some more belt that I was going to double up - will have to order 2 more Metres

Thanks to all

 

Matt - I am intending to double belt - what advantages have you seen?

Marcus

 

Morning Marcus

I fitted double belts from the start so have no experience without the. I read some thread and watched some YouTube clips and it just sounded a good plan. I have the 1500mm by 1500mm and that seemed a long belt to me. Because both belt teeth sit nicely together the forces are transferred down both belts which reduces the stretch. It's only relying on the single belt as it comes up from the v wheels over the gear and back to the v wheel. All I can do is that my machine has been bang on from day 1. I had my first belt jump yesterday but the was due to a g code error the and router trying to push 8mm in one pass. A nicer clamping method would be to order some of the v channel blanking plates you would need 12 of them but it would look a lot nicer than my Heath Robinson job and the angle brackets.

Hope this helps.

Matt

 

Has anyone outfitted the ooznest OX with printer head? Would love to see a part list for that!