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Lines on cut out piece from each pass

Discussion in 'OpenBuilds Forum Help' started by Icefox20, Mar 14, 2019.

  1. Icefox20

    Icefox20 Well-Known
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    Hey all

    Im getting these lines for every pass on our cut outs im not sure what causing them does anybody know ?

    Thanks in advance

    Scott
     

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  2. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Master
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    Your Z axis or your spindle may not be perfectly vertical. If so the discrepancy is very small. To overcome this leave a small amount of stock on the first, roughing, cuts and do a final finishing cut to remove the last, say, 0.2mm as a full depth cut.
    Alex.
     
  3. Icefox20

    Icefox20 Well-Known
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    Awes9me thanks mate for that
     
  4. Gary Caruso

    Gary Caruso OpenBuilds Team
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    I agree, start tramming!
    Cheers
     
  5. Icefox20

    Icefox20 Well-Known
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    Trimming sounds like a great idea its just we tryed that before and ended up with lot of chipping on the points of the cut out

    So i guess im i have problem both ways its just witch one lower in the grand scale of things lol
     
  6. David the swarfer

    David the swarfer OpenBuilds Team
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    not trimming, tramming
    the process of aligning the Z axis perpendicular to both the X and Y axes.
     
  7. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Master
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    I haven't bothered tramming my router yet - like yours the discrepancy I have at the moment is minute - until I can work out a way of modifying the openbuilds router mount to allow fine adjustment. As it comes the adjustment system is, frankly, crude - loosen bolts, adjust angle of router mount manually, tighten bolts! Your chances of holding the router mount still while tightening the bolts are fairly low. If the sides of your workpiece are on average square to the bottom surface it is most likely that the router mount is slightly out. I can't see from your pic how much of a problem you have, but if you are working with wood you need to decide which is the most time efficient way to deal with it - fiddling with the router mount or taking a small finishing cut at full depth (or sanding!). You also need to bear in mind the limitations of the material you are working with - I once routed (Hand router with a template) a pocket in a guitar body to within 0.01mm of the spec - then I measured it again half an hour later and it had changed by over 0.2mm and in truth it didn't matter in the slightest.
    Alex.
     
  8. Gary Caruso

    Gary Caruso OpenBuilds Team
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    Like Alex I didn’t bother for the longest time, close enough with a square resting on the spoil board and sighting the spindle body gets you close enough for most little router bits. Then to just not feel left out I built one of those contraptions and while it can be fiddly the feeling of reward is so worth it ;) On the video David posted, that one is way too long imo, unless you like pain and suffering make it shorter. Mine is 6” and honestly could be shorter, a couple thou over 6” is good enough for me and if I move the x carriage I get a couple thou variance anyway so my gantry is drooping a bit.. oh well.
     

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  9. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Master
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    Like @Gary Caruso I will be tramming my router one day, and, like him I will use a dial gauge on the end of the gadget. As a railway modeller I will want to do some milling work that will stretch the accuracy of my machine but at the moment (still learning how to use my machine) I am working almost exclusively in "wood" (mdf mostly) and the amount of error I've got isn't worth the fiddling needed to adjust the router mount. I also intend to modify the bottom Z axis plate to allow "micrometer" adjustment of the router mount (after I've got the hang of milling aluminium) - I'll post it in resources when I do, unless someone else beats me to it (hint).
    Alex. :rolleyes:
    PS - one point in the video worth emphasising - no point tramming your spindle unless you've skimmed your spoiler board.
     
  10. Icefox20

    Icefox20 Well-Known
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    Hey all sorry to be a pain

    1. I cant seem to do the tramming not sure how i fibe tune my spindle on the work bee 1010 its bloody hard

    2. Im only getting the lines on the last half of the cut now ...go figure

    3. My final pass to take that .2mm off chips something and not sure why ..grrrrr
     

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  11. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Master
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    Hi @Icefox20, what tool are you using? What is the thickness of that workpiece? Post a picture of the tool - lying flat on a clean background - I want to see if there is any fault with the tool. Check for play, in any part of the machine, but especially around the spindle and Z axis. Is the effect even all round the workpiece? If not how is the piece arranged on the machine?
    Alex.
     
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  12. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Master
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    Hi @Icefox20, the reason I wanted a look at the tool you were using is that the tip of the tool seems to be leaving marks, but further up the shank it seems to be making a cleaner cut - as though further up the shank is trimming off most of the marks made by the tip. Did you ever get this problem solved?
    Alex..
     
  13. Icefox20

    Icefox20 Well-Known
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    @Alex Chambers Hey sorry for no reply been buzt here at work from weeks

    i fixed the problem and not more lines found that the openbuilds clamp the screws were untighting and making the spindle move so fix that and its good to go now :)
     
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